Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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69 was a good year for Camaros

Spent all day in the shop. Found the vibration. Previous owner decided to shorten the driveshaft and did a poor job welding it. One side had an extremely tall (dirt dobber) weld and the other side was barely welded. The out of balance driveshaft wore out the front unjoint, which in turn destroyed something in the th400 tail shaft. With a new u joint and weld removed and welded right, I have no noticeable vibration. But I can grab the front driveshaft and move it up and down and have eight of inch up and down. I don't see how but the seal isn't leaking trans fluid. It has a short tail shaft. I can't remember, is the bearing on the output shaft in line with the front flange for the tail house? Guess I'll be pulling the tail shaft to see if the bearing support is in one piece.

Guess tomorrow I'll be trying to locate the knock in the engine. Is a fuel pump rod knock loud like an engine rod knock? I did the ole pull the plugs one at a time, and the knock doesn't seem to change. I pulled the valve covers and nothing jumps out. Valve lash seems right but I will check valve lash properly tomorrow. The 396 supposedly has 4000 break in miles. It uses no oil. Doesn't smoke hot or cold. Spark plugs all look great. Just a light color to the insulators. I have 26 psi oil pressure at idle and 45 psi at 2800 RPMs. The knock is only there after warm up. When cold it's fine. Doesn't look like a bad flexplate. I'll separate the torque converter from the flexplate and give that a try.

I thought about dropping the oil pan but not real sure what I'd be looking for other than blued area from heat. Then there is piston to valve clearance possibilities.

Sure didn't want to pull the motor this quickly. Lols. Even more aggregating is it didn't develop this knock till after I drove away.

David

Good luck with chasing the knock, David! Hope it's something simple--and not what we all think it is!!!!!

Yes Dave. I'm afraid I'm wasting my time hoping. Might as well pull it.

David

Got some more wrench time in today on the Camaro. Separated the torque converter. Pulled the fuel pump rod. And adjusted valve lash. Still have that pesky knock. Although I do think the fella before me had the rockers to tight. Seems much peppier. Is that a word? LOLs. Checked timing. 18* initial. 12* advance. Found the heads to be 454 oval port open chamber. And block is a 396. Pulling the pan tomorrow to give a good look. Probably pull the timing cover to make sure the guy put in a thrust button on the gear drive. Funny, I use to love gear drives. Now I can't stand them. Probably place my order for the new wheels tomorrow and do the mini tub next weekend. Need to mock up the rear wheels in the wheel house so I can get the Moser floater ordered. Going to run 18x10s up front and 18x12s in the rear. 14" front discs and 13" rear discs with C6 ZO6 calipers. Also got a line on a good used T56 Magnum close ratio with ZR1 gearing. Hope to do a couple Solo events at Heartland this year. I've always wanted to run a road course. Getting real excited.

David

Sounds like a fun build...except for that unknown knock

I've always wanted to try a road course also. Sounds like you'll have some fun times once you sort it out.

Nice list of parts, David!!!! If you're going to try road racing in a big block Camaro, better add a great big sway bar to the shopping list, too!!! They are a really front heavy car, back end just stays loose on a road course!!!!

David, I do some road racing in my other car and as you'll find out very soon, it's highly addictive. And with your Camaro I'm sure you'll go through tires and brakes about as quickly as I do so save your pennies! Good luck!

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Dropping in to say hi to my friends at CHR? Been awhile. Again. But life is just a flash of busy one day, busier the next.

Well, I've done it. Finally added my dream car to the garage. Got my kids taken care of. Now it's my turn. Still going to finish the 36. But it will be later than sooner. I wanted something I could drive now. Soo....I enter the world of big blocks again.

But now I have to figure out why I've developed a mid level knock (cold or hot)(any rpm), and a horrible vibration. Suppose to be a fresh 396 with 4000 miles. I hope vibration is not related to knock and just a bad flywheel, torque converter, pinion, or even better. And I hope knock is simple as loose rocker and not piston to valve clearance issues. I'll sort that out over the next few days.

Pat made me do it!!!!!!! That what I told Lisa.

Oh and thank you CHR for making a change. I can now upload pics from my iPad.

David

that pat made me do it has happen many times over the years . the 400 trans has a bushing in the tail shaft so it a easy job . fuel pump/push rod can make some nose so can leaky headers many times guys have called and told me there rockers were nosey when headers were leaking , not to worry i have a few short blocks ready for you if you need any thing up to 548 no wating add 2 weeks longer for 565 to 632.yep any main or rod caps blue is not good . on the P.O.S gear drive if you pull the front cover i would buy a new timing set and swap it out when your there

Charlie & 35_40,

I'm thinking this whole ProTour thing may be right up my alley. Building a car to handle and stop as good as it goes should be a real hoot.

Dave,

I'm planning a little weight reduction. AMD is making the front clip in aluminum now. I'd only do it as a last resort though. I'll be running the Ride Tech True Turn system with splined heavy sway bars. Already have plans for a Watts link and torque arm rear links. Hope to plant some of that power to the tires at end of the turn. Several people have already given me heck for going BBC and carberated. I'm not going to be in it to win it. Just looking to have some fun.

Nick,

I doubt I'll get that serious. It'll all be for fun. To far to drive to do it very much.

Pat,

I'll be calling soon. For a street driven car would it be wiser to stick with the 540 or jump up to the 598? I was thinking about the thinner cylinder walls with 598. And if I wanted to go bigger guess I should go 632? I realize the price of the short block will go up a little but I assume the biggest price jump would be the difference in needing a much bigger (more $$$$) better flowing set of heads? Am I thinking straight.

David

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Charlie & 35_40,

I'm thinking this whole ProTour thing may be right up my alley. Building a car to handle and stop as good as it goes should be a real hoot.

Dave,

I'm planning a little weight reduction. AMD is making the front clip in aluminum now. I'd only do it as a last resort though. I'll be running the Ride Tech True Turn system with splined heavy sway bars. Already have plans for a Watts link and torque arm rear links. Hope to plant some of that power to the tires at end of the turn. Several people have already given me heck for going BBC and carberated. I'm not going to be in it to win it. Just looking to have some fun.

Nick,

I doubt I'll get that serious. It'll all be for fun. To far to drive to do it very much.

Pat,

I'll be calling soon. For a street driven car would it be wiser to stick with the 540 or jump up to the 598? I was thinking about the thinner cylinder walls with 598. And if I wanted to go bigger guess I should go 632? I realize the price of the short block will go up a little but I assume the biggest price jump would be the difference in needing a much bigger (more $$$$) better flowing set of heads? Am I thinking straight.

David

No the bores at 4.600 are fine you will never hurt it there still over 250 thick at 4.600. i have many out there not all street engines that make alot of seam bores size is not the deal to worry about. from 9.800 its 582 . then 10.200 max is about 632 . if you have the room the 598or 632 is a nother way to go . the 589 is a good way to go as you can still buy a good oil pan under a $1000. that will fit in your car and heads are another thing but i buy dart s aluminum heads 335.345.355. have335 and345 in stock that would cover most any build for the street. price from a 510 to 565 is the same price 582 can be abit more in the 9.800 deck but not much more it is the deal were the piston ch and the 4.3/8 crank is not has common . block cost is the same for a 9.800 to 10.200 so the cost to build a 540 to 598 there not much price difference the 632 with the 4.750 crank cost more for crank and balancing the crank

Got the doors, fenders, and hood on the Cutlass for a trial fit. They weren't the originals for the car so before sealing and jamming anything thought it would be best to test fit everything once. Mike's coming up Sunday so we can decide where the other gauges, radio, speakers and other stuff will go. After I get that done, time to blow it apart, jam everything then start with final fitting everything prior to paint. Should be a good looking car, gold with some black stripes---subtle and fast, my favorite combination!!!!!

Had a good couple days on the Cutlass. Got the frame from the firewall forward primed and painted black. Also got the firewall, cowl, door jambs, and radiator support painted and cleared. Now it's time to come up with a workable plan for getting paint on the interior, wheel tubs, etc. and eventually getting the whole car shot. Should have it finished up in a couple of weeks so I can get back on my own stuff for awhile. and yes, I'll try to remember to get some pics sometime this weekend.....

Got the 14" rotors and ZO6 calipers test mounted. Still waiting on the wheels. No way the 15's will work with these brakes. LOLs.

Also mounted the Utethane bumper (man this was a bugger) and the carbon front spoiler. Also managed to get the so called OEM fan shroud mounted. Looks like crap but works. No more overheating at idle. Later I'll do better with a filler plate/mounts.

That's about it for now.