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Thread: You guys are the worst
          
   
   

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  1. #61
    36 sedan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    So, I just need help to get me get the right sending unit.
    It's the resistance curve of the sending unit you need to match your gauge. A resistance substitution box makes it easy, but you can do it with a few resistors. Most oil pressure units range between 25-300 ohms, usually 25 being 0 pressure and 300 high.

    I would start with 35Ω resistor at the gauge to ground and see what the gauge reads adjust resistance until gauge reads zero that will give you the low side of the curve. Next I would try a 300Ω and adjust until the gauge reads its highest oil pressure, that's the high side. Use the values to find a sending unit that closely matches.

  2. #62
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    Thx for the tutorial, it will come in handy I'm sure.

    I think I tracked down the stock part.

    According to my nifty wiring diagram, a sensor wire is feeding the AC clutch. That answers a couple questions.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  3. #63
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    My lift is functional again, so today I tackled the fuel sending unit. (I had to have the hydraulic cylinder rebuilt)

    The tall transmission jack really helped.
    I got the sending unit out, and discovered the new one is wrong. The stainless fuel line was totally wrong, and the return line missing.

    So what is one to do, let the project sit until Amazon replaces the item? Not if you've been corrupted with gallant stories of amazing repairs such as you guys have done. (You're the worst)

    I decided to graft the new sensor onto the old assembly.

    I cut the main line at about the same place on each then cut the conductor strap so they would overlap. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the strap ends, and stripped the old insulation off. I used a piece of new fuel line and a couple of hose clamps to connect the new sensor on the old assembly. I slid a length of the stainless strap inside the fuel line, to give the two conductivity.

    Next, heat shrink tubing was slid over the conductor strap, then joined with a pop rivet, and pop rivet washers. I wasn't satisfied with the union, so hammered it together as a true rivet. Then I shrunk the tubing, it looks nice.

    (I TRIED TO LOAD PIXELS, the technology Gods must need a sacrifice)

    BUT, no function! It would seem the original problem remained- the conductor strap wasn't conducting to the terminal pin.

    So, I removed the little doo whatsis that retains the strap to the pin. I would love to know what they are called; the circular clips with the internal fingers... the ones which pop on easy, but I usually have to destroy to remove.

    In the process I destroyed the rubber dammit which sealed the terminal pin. I found what looks like a rubber "foot", one which secures itself into a hole with a tapered end.

    Well I trimmed off half the "foot" and most of the taper end, drilled a hole through the middle and volia! I replicated the rubber dammit.

    Now, since I neither know what the doohwhatsis is called that served to electrically and physically connect the conductor strap to the pin, nor do I have any, I chose to peen over the end of the brass pin over the conductor strap.

    SUCCESS. Fuel guage now works.

    But the hell that is my life: my cherished Star Trek collector McDonald's Captain Kirk glass just cracked.
    glennsexton and 36 sedan like this.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    My lift is functional again, (I had to have the hydraulic cylinder rebuilt) (You're the worst) . .

    (I TRIED TO LOAD PIXELS, the technology Gods must need a sacrifice)

    BUT, no function!

    But the hell that is my life: my cherished Star Trek collector McDonald's Captain Kirk glass just cracked.
    So you sacrificed the cherished photo of James T. Kirk.... and still no pics provided??? after all the goobering to make a connection... some guys?!?!?

  5. #65
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    The tech Gods must be mighty unhappy with me. The glass cracked just from being touched.

    Lots of good stuff today.

    My oil pressure sending unit arrived, the guage now works. However the needle fluctuates some. If the action doesn't settle down ill get a solid state transducer.

    I let it idle long enough to get warm, I think the temp guage is working, but it didn't move much. The mechanical temp guage is still plumbed.

    The heater core was leaking at the top hose, fixed that.

    The door switch also came in. My dome light now works perfectly.

    I don't like how the e brake cable laid over the sub frame end. So I cut a hole with a die grinder so it can route better. One of the hooks is missing, only has one on pass side.

    I plumbed vacuum to the heater switch, the vacuum actuators seem to work fine.

    The AC clutch was NOT wired to the temp sensor, it just happens to also have a green wire. So, confirmed that the clutch is constantly energized because of the control switch. I wish I had caught it when I had it out. So, either pull the heater control or put in a toggle switch. It's too close to being right to stop now.
    NTFDAY, 34_40 and 36 sedan like this.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  6. #66
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    Oh Well.. sounds like the sacrifice kinda worked out. Got some more of the bugs sorted out and some of those weren't even a decent fight to get! LOL

  7. #67
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    The shifter cable came in today. Unfortunately the shift action is still quite difficult. Isolating the action by removing the column linkage shows it is the transmission itself which is difficult to actuate. Where can I get replacement plastic slides for the shifter? They are worn.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  8. #68
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    The AC clutch is now functioning properly. As it turns out, i may have managed to overcome the dummy proofing and plugged in one of the sockets upside-down. That and, it appears the enginerds decided it was a good idea that the AC run anytime the main slide switch is not in off. They provided an override with the "economy " switch which resets to AC - on anytime you move the top slide switch. However, the detent action needed slightly more adjustment than the factory provided. So my dremel did effectively elongate the adjustment slot, and volia. The removal and installation went much easier. Also, on the way home I dropped by O'Reilly and found the dammits. They are called push nuts and I picked up two packs. I broke a light bulb in the process but otherwise it went quite smoothly.

    Tomorrow I can finish the dash reassembly and figure out what to do with the two mechanical guages.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  9. #69
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    So I chose to remove the mechanical guages. They are intact and in a baggie, on a shelf next to the others.

    Dash is back together. The less I need to say about the hardware the better. The screws were all missing from the foot flange of the steering column. Egad.

    If I were to reset the proportioning valve, this thing would be quite close to drivable.
    36 sedan likes this.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    If I were to reset the proportioning valve, this thing would be quite close to drivable.
    Thankfully it was a complete restoration! Imagine if it had been a "survivor"!!
    53 Chevy5 and 36 sedan like this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #71
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    I haven't yet reset the proportioning valve, hopefully tomorrow. But I have been burning some fuel. It feels rough over 60 MPH. I'll be getting the tires re-balanced, and go from there. It smooths out when I let off the gas.

    You would not believe how it was received when I drove it to work yesterday. Just seeing that car in the parking lot really made people's day. Maybe that's what it's all about.

    I ordered new headlight buckets and steel trim clips. It got assembled with the plastic clips, and not all of them at that. The rear window trim came loose in the car wash today. I'd like some perfect shiny chrome grille inserts too, the chrome on mine is badly deteriorated. BUT it seems they are unique to the 75, very rare, and no repops.

    The driver side wiper arm was scrubbing on the hood edge. I thought it was the wrong wiper, but the correct, thin wiper didn't fix it. So I used longer bolts, and shimmed the base down a quarter inch. I'm convinced it is the fiberglass formula hood which is the problem. It also has a fitment issue on the drivers side fender. I might be able to shim the fender up a tad to compensate.

    The oil pressure guage has settled down, so the sending unit is doing better. Maybe the front seal on the transmission will stop leaking. That would be nice.
    johnboy and 36 sedan like this.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  12. #72
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    Regarding the roughness over 60... have you tested the timing chain for slack?

  13. #73
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    Newly built engine, so no. RPM doesn't seem to be a factor. Goes away instantly if I let off gas. Might be worth looking at.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  14. #74
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    Do you mean surging (kinda like the gas pedal is fluttering)?

  15. #75
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    If it's carbureted you might want to check the floats.
    36 sedan likes this.
    Ken Thomas
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