Thread: You guys are the worst

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the lungs won't tolerate it. Sadly so.

Ok, so I know some of ya had some fun with my post. And that is fine.

BUT.

I didn't post a joke.

And, I don't have many meds.

So how did you know they are in the kitchen!

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

So how did you know they are in the kitchen!

Ohps, I guess you know who's been hiding your stuff now too.....

p.s. eat the brownies

The deeper I dig, the more dirt is revealed

I got the instrument lights working. I burned out the resistive winding in the lights switch in the process, new switch on order. The speedometer cluster mylar printed circuit is repaired, as previously mentioned.

The brake light is on: proportioning valve and emergency brake switch are sending signal. I will try to reset the prop. valve and adjust the brake cable.

The only thing plugged into the neutral safety switch is the back up lights. The start circuit is jumped out. The seat belt circuit doesn't look like it will plug in, very strange.

The inst lmp fuse is an odd ball, tiny glass fuse so I took an inline fuse which takes the same size fuses as the others, soldered the wires to the tiny blown fuse and popped it in. If I get a replacement that's correct, I can swap it in.

I'm thinking the guages now work, but the oil guage has no sending unit. There are mechanical guages for temp and oil which mount under the dash so I'll have to decide if I'm going to keep them. I do like mechanical guages, they seem reliable.

Haven't looked into why the AC compressor stayed energized yet. It could be that it was being back fed from everything else because of bad grounds. My Haynes manual schematic doesn't mention the AC, very odd.

They put the duct work in without replacing the deteriorated foam gasket. I would never have gotten anything from the vents at all. I sliced up a large grout sponge left over from a tile job, and glued it in with 3M spray adhesive left over from re-covering the dash of the 73 charger.

I've got the radio rewired also. They put both hot wires on the original radio feed, so it lost memory every time it was turned off. So I put the batt label wire to the circuit which feeds the clock.

The wood stove has the room too warm, so the front door is wide open to let the heat out. I hope y'all are staying warm too.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

The inst lmp fuse is an odd ball, tiny glass fuse so I took an inline fuse which takes the same size fuses as the others, soldered the wires to the tiny blown fuse and popped it in. If I get a replacement that's correct, I can swap it in.

When you say "tiny glass fuse" do you mean the same diameter, but only about 1/2" long with only a small window of glass showing - Type AGA or SFE4, like shown on this Bussman chart?

Littelfuse_After_Glass_Fuses.jpg.jpg

Looks like the culprit.
I bought an assortment of the little glass gems, but I burned up the only two which would have worked.

".....dont say you have`nt done it .. i know you have......"

Actually the inner wrapper from a pack of cigarettes is a foil of some kind on one side. A single wrap of that around an old glass fuse is good for about 30A before it burns out.

Not that I would ever do that




.

Originally Posted by Mike P

Actually the inner wrapper from a pack of cigarettes is a foil of some kind on one side. A single wrap of that around an old glass fuse is good for about 30A before it burns out.

Not that I would ever do that




.

HA ! i had forgot about that ,, i haven`t smoked in over 30 years .. one could also use the wrapper from a stick of Wrigley's spearmint gum in a tite spot .. not that i ever did that ...

Chooing gum wrapper and match book covers!!!!!!!! match book striking strip was great for polishing ignition points contacts and cover was good thickness for setting the gap-------- what did some of you use when generator brushes got badDDDDDDDDDDDD?????????????

Took apart old D cell batteries and used the carbon core to make brushes

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

Took apart old D cell batteries and used the carbon core to make brushes

Now that is bad ass! LOL..

I never would have known to use D cells for brushes, I would've thought the alkaline would make it too corrosive. (Potassium hydroxide)

The other day at work I was cleaning up a work station when I saw a 1/4" ball bearing and thought it would fit the ashtray slide. PERFECT FIT!

The last electrical issue in cabin is the dome lamp. Well. More or less. The fuel guage doesn't work, but I'm pretty sure it's the sending unit. I have a new one, but today the hydraulic cylinder on my 4 post lift blew out. Unloaded luckily. Also the pressure guage is inop, but then it is missing the sensor. Then there is the neutral safety switch apparently out of adjustment (probably why the start circuit is jumped out)

Well hell, there seems to be lots of electrical gremlins left in the "cab".

I took a quick peek at the AC clutch today. It's still energized all the time. I'm at a loss given that the Haynes manual schematic I have doesn't show an AC circuit.

So, the wires are so long, the resistance was enough to drop the amps.

I also fixed the old headlights switch, and identified why the new one sounded and felt so bad. To fix the old one (remember, I burned out the spiral wound resistive wire) I overlapped the windings at the burned out spot. First, I tried to swap in the ceramic block with winding from the new switch. Only it wouldn't reassemble. I eventually figured out that the coil is wound too large.

The repair technique is a tad shady, and BTW it will get you by for a while with a heater element also, but the heater element will burn up again in the same spot. I'm hoping that 3 amps won't be enough to burn it out (again). If so, then I guess I'll have the new one to install.

Oh, also, I think I've identified the issue with the oil pressure guage. I think the Guage is now working perfectly, but the new sending unit is a switch, not a variable resistive output. So, I just need help to get me get the right sending unit.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

So, I just need help to get me get the right sending unit.

It's the resistance curve of the sending unit you need to match your gauge. A resistance substitution box makes it easy, but you can do it with a few resistors. Most oil pressure units range between 25-300 ohms, usually 25 being 0 pressure and 300 high.

I would start with 35Ω resistor at the gauge to ground and see what the gauge reads adjust resistance until gauge reads zero that will give you the low side of the curve. Next I would try a 300Ω and adjust until the gauge reads its highest oil pressure, that's the high side. Use the values to find a sending unit that closely matches.