lets see some pictures of all Ford Tudors 1937 through mid 1940s.
inside and outsides.
I'm looking for idea's but don't worry I won't copy anyone..
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lets see some pictures of all Ford Tudors 1937 through mid 1940s.
inside and outsides.
I'm looking for idea's but don't worry I won't copy anyone..
Attachment 67985This is the only picture I have of mine. It's a 40 Standard that I bought in 1962 It was stone stock except for the black and white tuck and roll interior. The front tires are 5.50 x 15 and the rears are 7.75 x 15.
Hey, welcome to CHR! I was looking at your car pics and noticed you're in Downey. I'm not too far away in Santa Monica. I have a '37 tudor humpback, which has been a long term project. My dad & I built it the first time when I was in college. About 10yrs ago, changing the radiator turned into a total redo and it's still a work in progress.:HMMM::3dSMILE: Life gets in the way sometimes. It's mostly bodywork and interior that I have left to do. There's a couple of lengthy threads on here but they might be overwhelming to you...:LOL:
have any pictures of the inside rear side walls under the rear quarter windows?Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
the builder of my Tudor sealed those quarter windows, removing the regulator so the windows do not go up and down, I want to correct this, and possibly put in power windows (as the fronts are power).
I can't find any good images online of the interior panels and how or where the regulators go or even what they look like.
or maybe if it's cool with you I can come up sometime and take a look at yours.
I have power windows on all four windows but they are not currently in the car. My dad and I scoured the salvage yard back in the day and devised a scheme that worked pretty good, however, in this rebuild, I'm going to upgrade the motor/riser mechanisms to something that works better.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjeds
On the original manual rear windows, after you crank it all the way up, you could keep cranking and the window would slide rearward a couple of inches to act as a vent window. We couldn't duplicate that motion with the electric windows so we fashioned a felt u-channel for the rear edge of the window to slide up and down and to prevent it from sliding rearward. There's also a felt u-channel for the front side of the window. Since this is a flat glass, several of the universal kits could be mounted to make it go up and down. The window will only go down about 2/3rd of the way because of the rear wheel well. I hope some of that makes sense....lol! I'll PM you my number. Feel free to call. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
I went through your thread last night, long read.. I scanned past the banter, man you have done a lot of work, is your Tudor drivable yet?
as for the windows..
looks like my fronts have issues, they go down but not back up without help, I can hear the actuator straining. I called the builder he said they are out of a late 70s Camaro. I'm thinking they are done.. I am going to purchase a whole new setup for the fronts and install it, no junkyard parts for the windows, I want them to work, I can't stand to drive in a car with the windows up, it is a phobia as a result of a car accident where I was broadsided on the passenger side by a drunk and smashed my head on the drivers window and shattered it, and knocked myself unconscious for 3 days. I rarely drive with the windows up, my windows have to function.
the rears.. I need to tear into the panel, there is some wood covering it, I will be removing this weekend I think and taking a look, I want to knock out the window issues before taking it in for upholstery. near as I can tell the rears do move up and down, but there is no visible crank, I believe that the original regulators are in there and possibly bolted to prevent movement, the builder doesn't know, he said the glass guy "locked them in place", if that is the case, there are some universal power modules that attach to the crank gear and give a power function without removing the original regulators.
check this kit out: 2 Pcs Universal Power Window Roll Up Conversion Kit with Switches for Car Doors | eBay
if that is the case then the roll back vent mode will work, as the window will roll up and then continue back since it is the OEM crank gear being turned. The trick is going to be making it stop in the up position and requiring you to press the up again to roll back.. pretty sure this can be accomplished using a one-touch control module like this one:
PWTR-A181D Auto Car Power Window Motor Close Control Module w One Touch Function | eBay
when it senses resistance it stops, so in theory it should stop once it is up and pressing the button again should do the roll back vent..
again, assuming you are using the original regulators that allowed this.
the 2/3s drop doesn't bother me, I've owned many cars over the years that had that issue.. as long as they go down about 6"-10" to allow air flow to mitigate the buffeting affect caused by having the fronts down at highway speed, I'm good.
On your power window selection, I suggest you use Nu-Relics. They fit and marry with the stock sliders perfect. When I was going to do mine, I asked for suggestions on an forum and six rod shop owners, that all knew me and my abilities, all six said Nu-Relics. They have a lifetime warranty and are true bolt in. I have been very satisfied. Don't buy Universal Kits when these are available.
yeah but nothing for the rear windows..Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooting
My Car, at Strokers Shop last month - very much a driver. Not much worth copying but if you like something - go for it.
And one running at 95 playing catch up on the LA Freeway, two years ago.
My seats with the door panels almost done.
Mate, Scooting, I have fallen in lust with your car, hot damn, that is one fine piece of automotive art and I haven't even seen underneath or the engine bay but it certainly tickles all the right spots for me.
His car is very fine, hopefully mine can compete when it is complete. exterior is close, need to get the headlights in and the tail lights working, and then interior done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
Attachment 68002
Attachment 68003
Yes it is a very fine vehicle but may I ask, what sort of era or style are you wanting ? If you are gunning for modern up to date style then you are there but if an earlier year style then I would have some suggestions that may help. Are those ghost flames airbrushed from the side grille openings ? I realize that you have already mentioned changing the exterior paint colour to something you find more appealing although I believe that is awesome now but your car and it seems a shame to rub down a good coat of paint before it has seen the odd chip from road use.
paint is actually 15 years old :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
I'm going for a modernized street rod.. adding power windows, already has shaved door and trunk handles, putting in a high end sound system as well.
most of the car is done, the builder started it in 1994 finished in 2002, then started to rebuild it in 2010, but he is 88 years old and his heath is catching up with him, he has a 1932 Ford Coupe, 1935 Chevy Grand Master and an all original 1957 Nomad. He is selling the '32 and I think the '35 when he completes it.
He wasn't actually selling this '39, I went to look at the '32 and I fell in love with the '39 so I offered him his asking price on the '32. he wasn't initially interested but called me back a month later and asked if I still wanted it.
he gave me all the parts to complete it, but there are some that I am changing up that are more inline with my taste.
while the paint is actually in very good shape, I'm just not a red car guy..
and the flames are hand pin-stripped, by him. I won't be messing with those, I will leave the base of the car red, just do a black top and hood, and possibly black fenders.
this style, but in black and red:
Attachment 68004
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjeds
OMG!! You went through my thread??? That thing is a marathon!!:LOL::LOL: You're right, there's a LOT of banter in there!
No, the car is currently not drivable but believe it or not, it was my daily driver when I first moved to LA 20+years ago. I drove it back and forth to Oklahoma a few times, too. Here's a pic of it loaded up for the move at my parents house in OK.
Ah, you make me feel good. It is not nearly as nice as most of my friends but guess what? I get to go the same places they do with their high dollar cars and have the same fun. On the road it is just a sweet running combination. Much better than it should be.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
mjeds, i noted the split bumper on the rear. How about a closer picture of that? Here are a couple fronts with split bumpers for you. Edited from the internet. The bottom one is up for sale on some site.
I'll snap a couple of pix of the rear bumper when I get home tonight.. the builder made those, not very functional but they look really good. I will have to modify them a bit because he made them to fit the standard license plate size and I have YOM 1939 plates which are a bit longer..
hopefully all I will have to do is put some spacers in his mounting brackets to spread them out about 1.5" on each side.. but knowing my luck it won't be that simple.
You were looking for interior ideas. I am posting some from the internet that I found when daydreaming about my interior.
Happy Hunting, hope this helps.
Lol. I was just surfing around looking for seats
Couple more.
I like this.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/attachment...7-194-seat.jpg
Any idea where it is from
I think that one was done by a member - M.T. aka M.T.1 in Southern California, been awhile since he's posted but you could look up his member page and flip'im a PM message. I was going to have him build me that seat frame but life happened and it fell by the wayside. He has a couple threads on here.. search for him and check out "all started threads", he had more than a few threads with his work in it if I remember right.
Or check his web site - Hot Rod Seats || Bengels He was very active, with lots of project ideas but dropped away almost 3 years ago. Hope he's still doing OK!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Here's my 40 Deluxe that is waiting to be finished. This was just a mock up pic a few months or so ago.
You had me all excited you had it done for a minute until I read it was a mock up about a month or so ago. :LOL:
Yeah, far from done. I doubt it'll ever be "done" any how. :LOL:
Another view of a square type seat.
Simple but elegant. Change the emblem to match your car.
here's one from our car show today, stinkin sweet.
Coyote! Yes!!!
how the hell did he squeeze that motor in there, jeez, bet there isn't enough room for an ant to squeeze between the valve covers and the hood when closed.
It was in there but it was tilted back further than I think it should have been. At first I thought it was a 4.6 cause I was told they were dimensionaly smaller than a 5.4 or 5.0 but this motor had 5.0 on the top of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mjeds
They put a Coyote motor in the 40 coupe that Hotrod magazine built for the power tour in 2012 Road Tour 1940 Ford - Hot Rod Network
I saw one stuffed into a Ford F1 pickup at the LA Roadster show a few weeks ago
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...psprrm7nys.jpg
and yesterday, John Gilbert, who writes for Streetrodder & Classic Truck magazines gave me a tour of their Tech Center in Santa Ana where they were stuffing one into this '41 Woody
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...pskgaafyg5.jpg
and if they weren't so darned pricey, I'd be stuffing one into my '37!! 435hp out of the box and the possibility of decent gas mileage on a road trip sounds like a win-win to me!!!:D:D:D
Jim Johnson in Albuquerque has had the 32v for quite a while. Nice ride but sneaky.
Dumb question here but is Tudor universal for all two door automobiles, or pertain to a certain years. I know where the origin of Tudor comes from as well as old Henry might of spelled poorly, but I usually only hear Tudor in reference to pre 1950's cars.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Others may disagree, but Tudor works for any year as far as I'm concerned. On the other hand a Deuce is a 32 Ford and not a Nova/ChevyII of any year. Also "fat fender" applies to cars up to 48.
Seth, that is one fine ride and thanks for sharing it. I really like the interior in it too.
Same here. The prices of the Coyotes and any new Hemi bigger than a 5.7 sure make the LS's more appealing. How'd you score that tour and surely that isn't the only pic you took? :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
in my research "Tudor" refers to a 2-door sedan (i.e. it has a back seat but not back doors) and Fordor refers to a 4-door sedan.. Don't think it was a mis-spelling, but rather an intentional "marketing" gimmick by Henry. The name started in 1927 on the Model A's and was carried through the 1940s. Both the Tudor and Fordor designations were trademarked by Ford in the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s as was the "Deluxe" designation.
Sounds about right from what I have heard reffered to as tudors!
yeah, Ryan, I can't believe I didn't snap a bunch of pics while there. I wasn't sure if I should but I plan to be invited back...:3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Actually, I've developed a bit of a facebook friendship with John Gilbert. On Saturdays he does a live feed on Facebook from the donut shop car gathering in Huntington Beach. I went there last Saturday with a buddy from there. I told John I'd see him there. He started his live feed on my truck while I was getting a coffee and donut, then came back around to shoot it some more at around the 5:20mark. Then he invited my buddy and I over to the Tech Center for a tour. It was very cool! Here's a link to the live feed https://www.facebook.com/streetrodde...5676963801579/
