Thread: Show me your Tudors.. 1937 - 194-????

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Originally Posted by randyr

I have power windows on all four windows but they are not currently in the car. My dad and I scoured the salvage yard back in the day and devised a scheme that worked pretty good, however, in this rebuild, I'm going to upgrade the motor/riser mechanisms to something that works better.

On the original manual rear windows, after you crank it all the way up, you could keep cranking and the window would slide rearward a couple of inches to act as a vent window. We couldn't duplicate that motion with the electric windows so we fashioned a felt u-channel for the rear edge of the window to slide up and down and to prevent it from sliding rearward. There's also a felt u-channel for the front side of the window. Since this is a flat glass, several of the universal kits could be mounted to make it go up and down. The window will only go down about 2/3rd of the way because of the rear wheel well. I hope some of that makes sense....lol! I'll PM you my number. Feel free to call.

I went through your thread last night, long read.. I scanned past the banter, man you have done a lot of work, is your Tudor drivable yet?

as for the windows..

looks like my fronts have issues, they go down but not back up without help, I can hear the actuator straining. I called the builder he said they are out of a late 70s Camaro. I'm thinking they are done.. I am going to purchase a whole new setup for the fronts and install it, no junkyard parts for the windows, I want them to work, I can't stand to drive in a car with the windows up, it is a phobia as a result of a car accident where I was broadsided on the passenger side by a drunk and smashed my head on the drivers window and shattered it, and knocked myself unconscious for 3 days. I rarely drive with the windows up, my windows have to function.


the rears.. I need to tear into the panel, there is some wood covering it, I will be removing this weekend I think and taking a look, I want to knock out the window issues before taking it in for upholstery. near as I can tell the rears do move up and down, but there is no visible crank, I believe that the original regulators are in there and possibly bolted to prevent movement, the builder doesn't know, he said the glass guy "locked them in place", if that is the case, there are some universal power modules that attach to the crank gear and give a power function without removing the original regulators.

check this kit out: 2 Pcs Universal Power Window Roll Up Conversion Kit with Switches for Car Doors | eBay

if that is the case then the roll back vent mode will work, as the window will roll up and then continue back since it is the OEM crank gear being turned. The trick is going to be making it stop in the up position and requiring you to press the up again to roll back.. pretty sure this can be accomplished using a one-touch control module like this one:

PWTR-A181D Auto Car Power Window Motor Close Control Module w One Touch Function | eBay

when it senses resistance it stops, so in theory it should stop once it is up and pressing the button again should do the roll back vent..


again, assuming you are using the original regulators that allowed this.


the 2/3s drop doesn't bother me, I've owned many cars over the years that had that issue.. as long as they go down about 6"-10" to allow air flow to mitigate the buffeting affect caused by having the fronts down at highway speed, I'm good.