Brake Light Switch Options

[rspears]

So the '33 roller came with a pressure switch plumbed into the brake line, and I dutifully wired it up for brake lights. It works OK, but one thing I don't like is that the brake lights are not illuminated in those times when you need only very, very light pressure to hold position. Also, the first pressure switch on it failed, which I learned when I very nearly got rear ended one afternoon .

The '32 roller from Pete & Jake's does not have the pressure switch. For you guys actually building, what are you using for a brake light switch? I have one of these "universal" switches from Speedway,



but it really doesn't lend itself to a through the floor pedal. Can you point me to something better, or do I need to plumb in a pressure switch and live with the way they work?

[daveS53]

Ron Francis sells a mechanical type that may work and also a lower pressure version of the pressure type switch.

SW-42 WATER PROOF BRAKE SWITCH-Ron Francis Wiring

SW-32 LOW PRESSURE HYDRAULIC BRAKE SWITCH-Ron Francis Wiring

[NTFDAY]

Those type of switches never did impress me and I've dealt with a few. That being said, if it were mine I'd wire up one that attaches to the brake pedal similar to what is on the Vette or the Mustang. If your master cylinder is under the floor as they were in early Fords the terminals can become corroded and/or loose and IMHO they are a PITA.

[36 sedan]

I had the wire come off my pressure switch and didn't know until someone told me my brake lights weren't working. Because I'm anal, I mounted a mechanical switch to my under floor pedal wired in parallel with the pressure switch (either or both switches activate the brake lights). This switch adapts well;
Universal Street Rod Adjustable Brake Light Switch | eBay

Then because I'm incredibly anal and didn't like the idea of not knowing when my brake lights were not working, I took my third brake light mounted in the rear window apart an wired an LED into it. Biased the LED dim and faced it so I could see it in the rear view mirror. Now I know when my brake lights are working. I told you I was anal, LOL!

Next a very loud peizio buzzer wired to a micro switch on my parking brake handle. Lol..

[sharpmark]

I always use a mechanical button type one on the brake pedal or triggered by a little plate on the pushrod. easier to replace and pretty foolproof.

I like some of the anal ideas above!!

[roadster32]

Roger I don't think you can go far wrong with a OEM switch, most screw in so simple to mount, I've found the after market switches never seem to last long enough.

[Bob Parmenter]

I had the wire come off my pressure switch and didn't know until someone told me my brake lights weren't working. Because I'm anal, I mounted a mechanical switch to my under floor pedal wired in parallel with the pressure switch (either or both switches activate the brake lights). This switch adapts well;
Universal Street Rod Adjustable Brake Light Switch | eBay

Then because I'm incredibly anal and didn't like the idea of not knowing when my brake lights were not working, I took my third brake light mounted in the rear window apart an wired an LED into it. Biased the LED dim and faced it so I could see it in the rear view mirror. Now I know when my brake lights are working. I told you I was anal, LOL!

Next a very loud peizio buzzer wired to a micro switch on my parking brake handle. Lol..

I think in addition to all that you should also put in a fiber optic link to the dash, you never can have too much back up.

[jerry clayton]

I like the old fiber optic that is mounted where you can see it in rear view mirror like on 70s Lincolns

[36 sedan]

I think in addition to all that you should also put in a fiber optic link to the dash, you never can have too much back up.

The fibre optics were a little distracting coming on with the brakes, so I bought an app for my smart phone that uses FaceTime to hack the phones of nearby cars for a realtime view of my car viewed on my windshield’s heads up display. Now I’m converting the in-tire pressure senders into temperature senders attached to the fibre optics so I know when the wheels get too hot because I left the parking brake on..

[rspears]

Roger I don't think you can go far wrong with a OEM switch, most screw in so simple to mount, I've found the after market switches never seem to last long enough.

Steve, when you say "OEM switch" what type are you referring to? Ford used the line pressure switch on a bunch of models back in the late '50's into the '60's, many mounted up high on the firewall near the master cylinder, but not always. I'm kind of leaning towards the one Ron Francis offers, sold by Summit Racing, pictured here:

[rumrumm]

I agree with what 36 Sedan posted. In my opinion, this is the only way to go if you want fine control. I used this when I built my '32, and it works great.

Universal Street Rod Adjustable Brake Light Switch | eBay

[rspears]

I agree with what 36 Sedan posted. In my opinion, this is the only way to go if you want fine control. I used this when I built my '32, and it works great.

Lynn, can you post a picture of your switch installed on the '32? I have an idea for a bracket welded to the frame, but that may not be necessary, and it's hard to argue with success.

[rumrumm]

I don't have a photo but I will try to take one tonight. It is mounted directly to the body next to where the brake pedal arm goes through the floor. The arm actuates the lever on the switch.

[exador]

Their are after market universal motorcycle brake light switches that might work. About 3" long, activated by a pull plunger with a spring. Can mount and adj the switch by amount of spring tension. On my bikes I can set to very little pedal movement.
Motorcycle Brake Light Switches | J&P Cycles

DAMN!! Don't know if this will work. Search jp cycles and then brake light switches.

[Matthyj]

On a different note, if you got the pressure switch from Speedway it has been recalled as they where tracking down customers sending them a corrected switch, got one in the mail a few months back without any notice, I have the one Roger listed first on my '32 and haven't had any problems, on my 37 I went with the low pressure switch from Speedway (thus the recall notice) I used it because we had one on a '65 Ford pickup that lasted 30 years with not a problem, I figured my mechanical switch would go bad before that (of coarse then the Speedway recall!)