Thread: 34 going up on jack stands for a while

Tweet

I'm pretty sure the temp gauge is correct. I have a switch to go between engine temp and trans temp. I have a 180 thermostat, and when the engine is warmed up, the gauge sits right on 180. BTW, that was a pretty huge cooler sitting right in front of the radiator.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I'm pretty sure the temp gauge is correct. I have a switch to go between engine temp and trans temp. I have a 180 thermostat, and when the engine is warmed up, the gauge sits right on 180. BTW, that was a pretty huge cooler sitting right in front of the radiator.

Then the sending unit is suspect. The only reason I'm firm on that is I run the below cooler on a fullsize Silverado that makes 540rwhp (Dynojet number) and weighs 5200lbs. I runs 175* on a hot summer day driving around town.

Dimensions on the Tru-cool is 22.75" x 8.5" x 1.25"

The cooler you have isn't that big and its a tube and fin which doesn't dissipate heat nearly as well as a plate and fin. I just want to make sure that there isn't something being overlooked and giving you a false reading.

I just took a look at the temp sender installation. It's possible that the sender body isn't grounded. I can't check it now because my VOM bit the dust.

Teflon tape???

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Teflon tape???

Yeah, that and gaskets on both sides of an add-on temp sensor bung. I must have been asleep when I did this one. I'm still going to check for continuity, though.

I bought a new multimeter today and checked continuity. The base (threads) of the sender are firmly grounded. I checked against the engine block, not just the pan. Zero ohms. The sender is not shorted out. The reading from the output to ground is approximately 1,960 ohms. The specs on this sender are: 1,123 ohms @ 100F and 65 ohms @ 250F. Since this gauge set uses the same sender for water and oil temperatures, I checked the water temp sender, and it also read 1,960 ohms. I don't have the full calibration curve on the sender, but since they're the same part # and have the same reading, I think it's fair to assume that the senders are OK. I also checked the continuity of the wire from the sender to the toggle switch that selects water or oil temp, and from the switch to the gauge. Everything checks out.

I would think that you should be reading at least a few ohms ----------

It's an auto-ranging meter that read a few tenths on the one ohm scale, which makes it pretty much zero. Your point?

I hate those auto ranging meters---you can so easily lose the perspective of the numbers because the guage changes scales---------
Since your checking it out---check the resistance from the guage all the way to the sender thru the switch---------you could possibly have a switch that varies by a few ohms on one side compared to the other-------


And don't use Teflon tape on a fitting that needs to be grounded for a guage pressure sender or temperature sender----------

When I took the car off the street to install A/C, I just kept finding more to do. I reworked and simplified the wiring, made the dash removable for better access, installed "prettier" stuff on the engine, modified the suspension and steering, The A/C is reasonably sorted out. I just need to get the car running again in order to make the final connections and have it filled with freon.





I'm dumping the pre-bankruptcy Demon 750 and going to a Holley Street Avenger 670



I'm still sorting the trans cooling problem, but I think it's solvable. My final issue is what the heck to do with this interior. That wooden "thing" that "he who shall not be named" installed to support an opening back window is 1-1/2" out of level from side to side. There are also not enough mounting points to attach the upholstery. My initial thought is to have the upholstery shop sort it out.



After reviewing all my records, there was a little note on the bill of sale that indicated that this car was the prototype and floor display model. Likely the first one built before all (most?) of the problems were sorted out. It's also apparently the last one sold before the bankruptcy.

I may still have to install a remote mount in the trunk, but after lying on my back for an hour or so, I have a possibility. The area rear frame spreader should get a reasonable amount of airflow, and I have room to add 24" two-pass, or even a pair of 15" two-pass with no interference from anything.



I mocked up an 18" to check the fit. Of course, the real thing would be round and not stand out so much. BTW, there is much more clearance than the angle of the photo shows.



Thoughts, anyone? Buehler? Buehler?

If that's where the room is, then that's what you need to do right? Form follows function??

At least there it has a chance to have air flow on it and being further away from the trans will also allow time for heat disapation.

I don't see anything wrong with your location, Jack. Should get decent air flow and it's tucked up where it's not going to be seen in the normal view.

On the interior, if you're taking it to a shop as opposed to doing any of it yourself then I'd just take it as it is and let the interior guy figure out where he wants/needs additional wood bonded in. I took out the top bows on mine and used the molded insert that N&N offered, but I'd leave that to the guy doing the stitching, too. The other option might be to take it to the guy you've chosen and have him road map the wood that needs to be added, then take it home and do that part yourself? Depends on how much you want to do vs just having it done.

Post deleted xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

After reviewing a bunch of options, I'm going to use a trunk-mounted Derale stack-plate cooler with their matching thermostat and a Spal 9" pusher fan. The primary reason is that the thermostat...

The sidebar evidently doesn't delete... This seems to be a agonizing decision for you Jack... You're changing directions like a leaf in the wind.. so I'd like to offer that almost any cooling you provide is almost certainly enough for the task. You're not towing or climbing the Rockies daily and as I've said once before, I've got a couple friends who add a couple coils of copper tubing right at the trans and call it good! Their 700r's are still going strong!

Hope it helps and you can move forward!