Thread: Making wiring harness?

Tweet

Matt, I’ve been building my own harnesses for many years. I personally find it enjoyable and relaxing. When I have a project under construction, I usually start looking at the part store wiring section for the different color and gauge wiring and pick things up a few items at a time to spread the cost out and try and make sure I have I need when I get to that part of the project.

I few things I learned along the way that might be helpful:

List out your circuits/accessories.

When you start building the harness, draw your wiring diagram as you go, making sure you include wire color and gauge. I usually draw each circuit in as I complete each one.

On complicated circuits (stereo, ignition, cruise control), make a separate wiring diagram which will be easier to read if necessary.

Add a couple of extra un-terminated circuits to the rear of the car and engine compartment in case you want to add something later on.

Protect with headlight circuit with a circuit breaker rather than a fuse.

I usually run a Ford Solenoid (even with GM and Chrysler starters) in a convenient location …….it makes it a lot easier to hook a remote starter switch and if you ever have to remove the starter you only have the main cable to remove from the starter.

It’s a lot cheaper to buy the terminals and connectors in bulk than the small packages and if you do your own wiring they do eventually all get used up.

Thanks for the tips. I planned on using factory relays in a relay block for the headlights and other high current circuits, but I know there are circuit breakers that replace ATC fuses and they are not that expensive.

This truck won't have much except it will have a heater, possibly even A/C.. Beyond that I plan on a stereo and an interior dome light that will operate with a switch on the dash. Other than that, just basics, turn's, brake's, headlights with high and low, and dash ilumination... Oh and a set of those electric safety locks for the doors as I'm using the Speedway 'T' type door latches.

I was at the junkyard today getting a new air conditioning compressor to replace the seized compressor in my Subaru and also a new trim strip to replace the missing strip. I got an under hood fuse/ Relay block from a 1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT and another from a '94 Ford Escort. With one or both and the marine fuse block I should be set for a start. I have factory manuals for the Subaru and I have a Chiltons that covers the '94 Escort so I can figure out what is what in them.. The checkout person waived the cost of the trim strip for me which is usually $10/foot ( 2' piece ), so I came out a bit cheaper than I should have.