Thread: 1933 Ford Coupe Body
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08-31-2008 01:29 PM #1
1933 Ford Coupe Body
I have finally finished a couple of projects and would like to start on a nostalgic 33 Ford 3 window coupe. Who makes the best body? Strong, free of stress cracking and squeaking? What is stronger/better, the wood, steel, or all composite reinforced bodies? Who can provide a stock appearing firewall? If there is not a stock firewall available on one of the high quality bodies, can someone tell me where I can get a piece of engine turned stainless or aluminum sheet to laminate over the smooth firewall? Also, the powertrain is ready, it's a Chevy 328 (350 crank in a 350 4 bolt block sleeved to a 283 bore) with small Edelbrock E-Tec heads and a Demon tripower with a TKO 600 trans. My other question in how effecient is a champ or a V8 quickchange vs. a 9" with a locker? Which takes more power to drive? I have always used Ford 9" rears in the past? Thanks.
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08-31-2008 04:24 PM #2
Read this thread. Just about everything said there about bodies addresses your first question.
If I were building one today, I would use N&N. If price is no object, then Wescott.
Laminating metal onto a 33/34 firewall strikes me as a pretty serious chore. The shape of the firewall is very complex.
I don't think you're going to notice a power difference among the rear axles you mentioned. If you're going for the look - quick change. Otherwise, 9".Jack
Gone to Texas
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09-01-2008 06:45 AM #3
N&N --- Hands down the best on the market for the bucks.
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09-03-2008 03:17 AM #4
Thanks for the advice. Anyone have any info on the rear end question?
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09-03-2008 04:13 AM #5
[QUOTE=Henry Rifle
....snip...I don't think you're going to notice a power difference among the rear axles you mentioned. If you're going for the look - quick change. Otherwise, 9".[/QUOTE]
I think Jack nailed the rear end question.
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09-03-2008 06:01 PM #6
In the quickchange, what's the real difference between straight cut and spiral or helical gears?
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09-03-2008 07:38 PM #7
Noise level is the most noticeable difference, I think. Straight cut gears will whine more, or at least that is my understanding. (and that isn't ALL bad! )
Don
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09-04-2008 02:04 PM #8
Jack wrote:Laminating metal onto a 33/34 firewall strikes me as a pretty serious chore. The shape of the firewall is very complex.
Met a guy at a local car show recently that had a 32 3WC, chopped, channeled, flattie powered, flat black, steel wheels, pure old school look.
Car was a beauty. It wasn't until he opened the trunk that I realized that it was a glass car. He had molded in a steel 32 firewall into the body that looked like a factory build. Don't know if doing that with a 33 would be that much more difficult, but the final results were amazing.
Next time I go to that show I will have to take some photos of that car to share.Bob
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!
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09-04-2008 02:49 PM #9
I shopped and compared all mfgrs.before I bought my 34.The firewall looks like a 34 steel(ribs and all).I had one fender that was a little thin at the rear outside,after bracing that was not a problem.The painter was impressed how little he had to prep the car before painting.I think the grill is about all that is different from the 33 vs 34.The price was also impressive.
Has anyone on the forum used the Rod Shop bodies? They were located in Indiana,Pa.but I think they have either been bought out or moved.Don D
www.myspace.com/mylil34
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09-04-2008 08:41 PM #10
Bob, I really would appreciate it if you could get some pictures to see how it was done.
Don, whose body did you use?
Thanks
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09-04-2008 08:49 PM #11
Originally Posted by Don DaltonYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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09-05-2008 06:54 AM #12
Originally Posted by Matt167
Mike
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09-05-2008 07:26 AM #13
Originally Posted by Matt167
Wrong,Wrong,Wrong;
Street Beast is a bad word in my opinion.My chassis is custom built set up for 700r4 and 400 + HP.engine. Street Beast is a 1 piece body,you didn't study my Pics. very well.
This is the link of the present owners and they do offer a 33,34 3/w cpe.
www.streetrodz.comDon D
www.myspace.com/mylil34
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09-05-2008 07:36 AM #14
Originally Posted by Mike52
Oh pretty good rookie observation.Don D
www.myspace.com/mylil34
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09-05-2008 04:39 PM #15
Sorry .. I actully studied the pictures very well, and did see the seperate fenders and body, but then looking at a couple of the pictures from the front view, the fenders appeared to be one peice ( below the center of the grille ), that is what made me think, Street Beast... and yea, looking at the pictures again, the dash is way diffrent than what Street Beast uses... I really did not mean it as an insult, your car is really nice. Again, I'm sorryLast edited by Matt167; 09-05-2008 at 04:42 PM.
You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance