Thread: 1933 Ford Coupe Body
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08-31-2008 02:29 PM #1
1933 Ford Coupe Body
I have finally finished a couple of projects and would like to start on a nostalgic 33 Ford 3 window coupe. Who makes the best body? Strong, free of stress cracking and squeaking? What is stronger/better, the wood, steel, or all composite reinforced bodies? Who can provide a stock appearing firewall? If there is not a stock firewall available on one of the high quality bodies, can someone tell me where I can get a piece of engine turned stainless or aluminum sheet to laminate over the smooth firewall? Also, the powertrain is ready, it's a Chevy 328 (350 crank in a 350 4 bolt block sleeved to a 283 bore) with small Edelbrock E-Tec heads and a Demon tripower with a TKO 600 trans. My other question in how effecient is a champ or a V8 quickchange vs. a 9" with a locker? Which takes more power to drive? I have always used Ford 9" rears in the past? Thanks.
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08-31-2008 05:24 PM #2
Read this thread. Just about everything said there about bodies addresses your first question.
If I were building one today, I would use N&N. If price is no object, then Wescott.
Laminating metal onto a 33/34 firewall strikes me as a pretty serious chore. The shape of the firewall is very complex.
I don't think you're going to notice a power difference among the rear axles you mentioned. If you're going for the look - quick change. Otherwise, 9".Jack
Gone to Texas
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09-03-2008 05:13 AM #3
[QUOTE=Henry Rifle
....snip...I don't think you're going to notice a power difference among the rear axles you mentioned. If you're going for the look - quick change. Otherwise, 9".[/QUOTE]
I think Jack nailed the rear end question.
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09-03-2008 07:01 PM #4
In the quickchange, what's the real difference between straight cut and spiral or helical gears?
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09-03-2008 08:38 PM #5
Noise level is the most noticeable difference, I think. Straight cut gears will whine more, or at least that is my understanding. (and that isn't ALL bad!
)
Don
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09-04-2008 03:04 PM #6
Jack wrote:Laminating metal onto a 33/34 firewall strikes me as a pretty serious chore. The shape of the firewall is very complex.
Met a guy at a local car show recently that had a 32 3WC, chopped, channeled, flattie powered, flat black, steel wheels, pure old school look.
Car was a beauty. It wasn't until he opened the trunk that I realized that it was a glass car. He had molded in a steel 32 firewall into the body that looked like a factory build. Don't know if doing that with a 33 would be that much more difficult, but the final results were amazing.
Next time I go to that show I will have to take some photos of that car to share.
Bob
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!
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09-01-2008 07:45 AM #7
N&N --- Hands down the best on the market for the bucks.
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09-03-2008 04:17 AM #8
Thanks for the advice. Anyone have any info on the rear end question?
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09-05-2008 05:39 PM #9
Sorry
.. I actully studied the pictures very well, and did see the seperate fenders and body, but then looking at a couple of the pictures from the front view, the fenders appeared to be one peice ( below the center of the grille ), that is what made me think, Street Beast... and yea, looking at the pictures again, the dash is way diffrent than what Street Beast uses... I really did not mean it as an insult, your car is really nice. Again, I'm sorry
Last edited by Matt167; 09-05-2008 at 05:42 PM.
You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold






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