Thread: One Way To Build A '32 Hyboy

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Dave-Thanks she wants a '32 Woody for her surf board

Ic2-You have a nice work area too!

Don-The only thing about a messy garage is you usually have gotten something done I'm happy with the front end also.

Ken

We have been working on mounting the shocks and muffler and fuel pump and filters.
I decided to mount the shocks in front of the half shafts so to keep the rear view as clean looking as possible.
The second shot is that tunnel I showed in the beginning. That allows the bar to be mounted close to the bottom of the frame so nothing is hanging down. As the suspension goes threw its travel it won't hit the bottom of the frame. It will go up inside the frame.
Ken

I had a local muffler company make me a single muffler with 3" inlets and outlets. It seems the mufflers always wind up under neath the passenger area and generate so much interior heat. Even with the good insulation that is out there. So this car I decided to use a single muffler and mount it behind the drivers compartment. Hopefully it will be easier to insulate the heat.
We made this fuel pump filter all in one deal to try and make a small package for the fuel delivery system. It's completely self contained. Inside is a 100 micron filter on the inlet side and a 10 micron on the outlet side.
Ken

I just had to say nice cars, garage, and the work you are doing is really fine, if I had the bucks I would be inline to buy your next finished roadster. I was at the street rod nats, in Columbus in the late 80's spotted a black 32 fender less big motor, big tires, top like yours, been dreaming ever since. Now I have to go back and follow from the begining. 1992 or 1993 at the street rod nats in Columbus I missed the give away car by one number, I had 1095 but I didn't hear the other number, I thought I won the 32 full fendered roadster. When the guy asked me {where you from Lyle}? I knew something was wrong. "What's the old saying about somethings making you stronger" didn't make me stronger but I got through it until hear {1095}.

The garage is really, really nice.

P.S. Forgive me for calling your super clean shop/design studio a garage. I was looking at dream garages and should not have referred to your place as a garage. I've been in Hospital's that didn't look as clean.


ford2custom

Great looking pump and filter, Ken!!!!

I can't tell on my cpu but what is that fuel pump containment made of? That is a great little invention it looks like to me. I would like to have one.

FORD2CUSTOM-Thanks, very nice of you, I wanted a place like this to work and finally was able to build it.

Dave-Thanks, there wasn't anything out there that I could find that was easy to mount and self contained.

Brickman-When we come up with something new we make a technical drawing then have a model of it produced on a SLA machine. I'm probably saying this wrong but it's like a printer that uses plastic instead of ink. So it just keeps putting layer after layer of plastic down that matches your drawing. I think it stands for stereo lithography something . But what it doese for us is instead of whittling it out of a piece of aluminum we can have this in a matter of a few hours and test it to make sure all the clearances are correct. With this model, since it really doesn't have to be structural we can actually use it and check it's performance.
Ken

Here is what has gotten done since the last post. I've been trying to wrap up several things at once. There has been a lot of jumping around. I am using the G.M. off road computer and wiring harness for the engine. So the computer is mounted under the dash along with the fly by wire throttle and the fuse panel. I decided to put it there just to keep the wiring harness short and use up the remaining space under the dash. Everything will be covered so when you look up under there you won't see anything, I will show you later how this will be done.
Ken

The other thing that needs to be finished up is the seat frame and seat riser. All of this is made out of sheet metal and tubing. I have learned over the years this works out best for me to do it this way. It's very time consuming, but this way you can design the interior as you go along. The other reason I use steel for all the door panels and kick panels is that I got caught in a rain storm in Kansas once and ruined my interior because all the panels absorbed the water then warp all over the place, never again. Once all the panels are made and the seat and riser is done I have them powder coated before I give them to the upholstery shop.
Of all the good things that the Dearborn Deuce body has going for it there is one area that really is poorly done (my opinion only). There is a collapsible bar that is very intrusive to the interior. This bar is what locks the top open and against the tulip panel when it is being used. If you use there system you loose about 4" of width in the car, right where you need it the most. I have removed mine and made them a piece that is installed just when the top is up, it's a strut instead of this collapsible strut. This way it is removed and the top is folded down and completely eliminated from the interior.
Now, when I put the top up or down I just flip up the tulip panel, move the seat back forward on it's hinges and raise or lower the top. Everything is hidden and looks like a regular interior.
Ken

Wow Ken you do beautiful work. I really enjoy your posts while you are doing this build. Real interesting how you go about solving the problems that always seem to come up.......Bob

Looks really nice Ken!!! As always, very well thought out and gorgeous craftsmanship!!!!

Ken, you set the standard for exceptional craftsmanship. Beautiful work!

Bob-Thanks, the problems keep it interesting for me.

Steve-Let me know when you are coming here, I will give you my cell number and I'll take you to lunch in it. Another magazine shot it Friday for a feature. They did everything except take it apart, they must of taken 300 photo's. Should come out in July's issue.

Dave-Thanks, it's getting closer.

Techinspector1-Thank you, I'm glad you like it.

One of the things I have been working on is a new hood release system.I thought of the idea when I was building my red roadster. I think all the systems out there are good, but to me they are to bulky. I wanted something that when I ran the car with out the side panels or with out the hood it would look nice and not show a big mechanism. So I started with with some 5/8 S.S. tubing and built everything inside the tubing, so all you would see is 2 polished rods going from the firewall to the grill shell. So I did that and it worked really well, so this car I'm going to take it one step further and make previsions for the side panels to be released from this same rod with there own release mechanism, and make all the hinge mounts removable.
Ken

Beautiful work, Ken. I'm enjoying your build. Your ideas are educational and inspirational.

I have a couple of questions on your hood mechanism. On my coupe, I used 3/4" square tubing and a toolbox latch up underneath for each side. It holds the hood tops (stock model-A with lower edges trimmed) down fine and is invisible when closed, but if I put hood sides on it, I can't access the latches. I see that your mechanism is basically a tube inside a tube. My questions are (1) how do you keep the inner and outer tubes indexed so the holes stay in line and (2) how will you actuate it? Will you have cables that run inside the car somewhere?