Thread: One Way To Build A '32 Hyboy

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Now the motor ( my dad hated it when I called an engine a motor! I can still here him "a motor runs on electricity and an engine runs on fuel") I still call them motors, it makes me think of my dad.

My dad says the same thing

-Chris

Ken,
Are you going to post some pictures and description of the front suspension? I see that it is mostly (or all?) inboard. Is it your design or a commercially available unit. I have a TCI IFS on my '31 and while it's nice, really doesn't have much in the way of appeal. It will be under that car forever, but there is always the next one......

Oh yeah, when I went through some of my early engineering courses, the instructor made sure we knew the difference between a motor and an engine . I think the NA$CAR redneck syndrome took over.

Now the motor ( my dad hated it when I called an engine a motor! I can still here him "a motor runs on electricity and an engine runs on fuel") I still call them motors, it makes me think of my dad.


While the term engine might be technically more correct, somehow it just wouldn't sound right if we referred to ourselves as "engine heads." "motor heads" just sounds so much cooler.

Don

A motor can either be an electric motor or an internal combustion or steam engine.

As an example I give you Motor Home.

An engine on the other hand converts energy and thus excludes electric motors; engines are associated with internal combustion or steam. Electric motors convert electric power to motion.

I thought we were gear heads, not motor heads?

Ken I am sure enjoying your build!

Kitz

I guess a whole new glossary of terms would have to be adopted:

No more motor boats, they would be engine boats.

Same with the motor homes you mentioned.

And, "I'm going to engine into town tonight."

Ford Engine Sport parts.

Chrysler guys would buy enpar speed equipment.

A Harley would become an Engine Cycle.

Ad nauseum...........


Don

See Ken, these threads kinda wander a little sometimes. Wait til the cats and Uncle Bobs pictures start showing up!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by IC2

Ken,
Are you going to post some pictures and description of the front suspension? I see that it is mostly (or all?) inboard. Is it your design or a commercially available unit. I have a TCI IFS on my '31 and while it's nice, really doesn't have much in the way of appeal. It will be under that car forever, but there is always the next one......

Oh yeah, when I went through some of my early engineering courses, the instructor made sure we knew the difference between a motor and an engine . I think the NA$CAR redneck syndrome took over.

IC2-The front end is a Kugel. I chose his because I wanted the front of the "A" arms to be straight across the front of the car, I didn't want them angeling back like a regular a arm. I hope that makes sense.
I also wanted in board shocks and he didn't make his front end that way(Now he does).
So I bought a set of his rockers and made the mounts (they match my motor mounts) made the bottom shock cross member and new mounts on the control arm. In the one photo you can see the old mount cut off.
Ken

Thanks for the information Ken. I do know what you mean with angling back of a standard A frame - it looks awkward on a fenderless car, especially. Your assembly really cleans up the front end of a hiboy that has an IFS. I do like IFS, but the conventional TCI/Heidt's, etc just has too much claptrap hangin' out in the breeze. Waiting for more

The other thing I dislike about independent front ends on fender less cars is that big cross member to mount all that stuff. When I decided to do this one of the parameters was to only do this if I could get rid of, most of that cross member. If you look at the rendering that is what I wanted to see before I made my mind up. The 1" tapered channel of the body, allowing the grill shell to be dropped so radically and still have the body lines perfect. The more you drop the grill shell the wider it gets then if you mount the head lights to the upper control arm bolt on the frame it pretty much hides that ugly necessary thing.
Ken

I posted this before, for someone that talked about LS engine radiators. This is the one I had made by a local radiator shop. It's two radiator cores next to each other with a common tank at the top. The two threaded bungs at the bottom are for the drains. There is an air relief valve at the top front to bleed the air off, yes i have to take the grill shell off to bleed it but I thought it would be worth it to keep the tank clean looking in the engine compartment. They put 90 degree inlet and outlets but that will be changed to straights.
The grill shell frame work is bolted to the frame then the radiator is bolted to the frame work along with the shell. I do this to take some of the shock away from the radiator. It probably doesn't but it's the way I have always done it.
Also I will make a filler piece to cover the gap between the grill shell and the fan shroud.
Ken

This is the gas tank I made for the car. It was started with a trip to a Arts and Craft store. I just bought a bunch of different sizes of Styrofoam and some glue. Then fit and cut and glues it together. Made a drawing of the buck took it to a plasma cutter then welded it together.
Ken

This is what it looks like in the car.
Ken

Nice tank Ken, it looks like aluminum? How thick, .090????

Thanks Dave, close it's .120. I'm going to mount the fuel pump in there so I thought I would make it a little heavy. I'm sure its over kill.
Ken

Gee, this is a beautiful build, but two years ago I got a lot of flack about a rear tank in my A with references to the old Pinto lawsuits. I am way down on the skill level but I was able to make a cardboard mockup and then paid quite a sum to Rock Valley to weld one up in 14 gauge stainless steel, compared to their usual use of thinner 16 gauge stainless. I do not know the exact thickness of the 14 guage stainless but I had to trim the tabs for the mounts and I burned up a small Mikuta grinder using it to cut through the stainless very slowly. I wanted to simulate a rumble seat and even added a 4" wide steel bar (0.25" thick) behind the tank for rear protection, so it surprises me that you have an aluminum tank down low. I can say that I recall building a 10' sailboat that was overbuilt to the point that it was too heavy to lift so I tend to overbuild, although at a lower level of skill compared to the work shown here. For what it is worth Rock Valley told me they have a display of one of their tanks that was in an accident and has a dent 1/3 the width of the tank and it did not leak! Hey your build is already about 1000 times better than mine but maybe you ought to reconsider use of aluminum in a low rear mounted tank? Check with Rock Valley they can use your existing patterns OR maybe I misunderstood you saying "aluminum" above? My tank came out to be on the small side at about 13.1 gallons U.S. but at the price of gas today that is still about $40/fillup. Relative to discussion of roadster weight on another thread, I realize while writing this that the 4" wide steel bar and stainless for the tank certainly did not reduce the weight of my roadster and I guess I am looking at 2500+ pounds total but there is a safety issue here and the stainless tank is my response.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Gee, this is a beautiful build, but two years ago I got a lot of flack about a rear tank in my A with references to the old Pinto lawsuits. I am way down on the skill level but I was able to make a cardboard mockup and then paid quite a sum to Rock Valley to weld one up in 14 gauge stainless steel, compared to their usual use of thinner 16 gauge stainless. I do not know the exact thickness of the 14 guage stainless but I had to trim the tabs for the mounts and I burned up a small Mikuta grinder using it to cut through the stainless very slowly. I wanted to simulate a rumble seat and even added a 4" wide steel bar (0.25" thick) behind the tank for rear protection, so it surprises me that you have an aluminum tank down low. I can say that I recall building a 10' sailboat that was overbuilt to the point that it was too heavy to lift so I tend to overbuild, although at a lower level of skill compared to the work shown here. For what it is worth Rock Valley told me they have a display of one of their tanks that was in an accident and has a dent 1/3 the width of the tank and it did not leak! Hey your build is already about 1000 times better than mine but maybe you ought to reconsider use of aluminum in a low rear mounted tank? Check with Rock Valley they can use your existing patterns OR maybe I misunderstood you saying "aluminum" above? My tank came out to be on the small side at about 13.1 gallons U.S. but at the price of gas today that is still about $40/fillup. Relative to discussion of roadster weight on another thread, I realize while writing this that the 4" wide steel bar and stainless for the tank certainly did not reduce the weight of my roadster and I guess I am looking at 2500+ pounds total but there is a safety issue here and the stainless tank is my response.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,
I agree with you, I always try to think about safety when I build something. But I have to be honest if I built IT based on what ifs, it would be really ugly. I always believe that no matter how hard you try, if you ever get "T" boned in one of these things you can probably kiss it good bye.
I do have frame work around my tank though.
Ken