1930 Chevy sedan build thread...trying for 3K.

**Dave Severson** · 03-07-2008 08:26 PM

Looks like a good days work for two guys!!!! The car looks great!

**NTFDAY** · 03-07-2008 08:37 PM

The car is coming right along, but that snow has got to go.

**halftanked** · 03-08-2008 04:00 AM

That's a pretty serious compressor you are using, car looks to be coming along very nice, Hank

**BradC** · 03-08-2008 04:22 AM

Looking good and I like the snow treads on the body cart..LOL
BradC

**ford2custom** · 03-08-2008 05:37 AM

The car has come along way most guys would have over looked this one. I love old cars and have some rough ones but I don’t think I would have been able to see what you did. You really did good, nice to see you have saved it good times will be had in this car.

Richard

**bluestang67** · 03-08-2008 06:49 AM

Buck the bodies sure look good when there in that state . You have got more work done outside in the snow then some have in a comfy garage . That one including me .

I have been reading on the Chevy some and not many tech articles out there on replaceing the wood with steel . If i remember you did some earlier in a post and this would be a great Wiki tech article. This i think was a deterent to me when i was searching for a 30's project . Even this would give idea's to a Ford guy in getting rid of the wood inside for a more stronger steel framing .

I agree that is a sand blasting compressor back there . I had the oppurtunity to get one last summer for $600 but had to pass , I have no where to store it . Need to find a car guy near me with some property who may let me store a piece like that for both to use .

**Wolfco** · 03-08-2008 06:35 AM

Nice work Buck! What is a "Zip" wheel? Does that remove rust without hurting the base metal?

**buckroseau** · 03-08-2008 08:22 PM

Originally Posted by Wolfco

Nice work Buck! What is a "Zip" wheel? Does that remove rust without hurting the base metal?

What I refer to as a zip wheel is basiclly a 36 grit rol'oc disc on a 90 degree air grinder. Probably not a technical term, but a few of the local autobody guys around here also call it that.

I also use a 4.5" angle grinder with a 36 grit zircon flap disc...that works very well also.

Just make sure to keep moving a lot so you don't heat up any one area and warp the metal.

Hope this helps, Matt

**buckroseau** · 03-22-2008 09:02 PM

Been a couple weeks since I posted anything. I've been working almost daily on the body....pretty much spraying sandable primer and sanding it off. Body is looking really good, but I still hate it.

Decided to take a little break from sanding today and work on my windshield...or lack of.

From what little information I could find on the 30 chevy and since all of my stuff was rotted out and laying on the ground. I believe the way the chevy windshield worked is that the windshield moved straight up and down in a wood track. Since all that stuff as gone, and I didn't want any of that wood back anyway...I decided to fab up my own thing.

A friend of mine had an old Ford windshield frame that had laying out in the weeds he gave me. It was pretty rough, but the price was right so I would figure I would see if I could make it work. Pics pretty much say it all, I think I did manage to fab something up that will work. I used a piece of 1/4" brake line to make the receiving hinge piece on the body. I cut the length of the brake line a 1/16" wide and welded it to the body. Seems to work as well as an orginal Ford one. I am able to hold the windshield vertically and pop it into the track. I did have to cut 4" of width out of the frame since the chevy is narrower up front. I also took out about 4" vertically, but I chopped 3.5" so that was about right. I used a couple of cabinet slides from Ace hardware and mounted them to the windshield and A pillar. Just so I had something to hold the windshield open or close, looks kinda stock and cost about a total of $4 bucks.

Anyway, still need to sandblast the frame and get it cleaned and painted, but for about $5 bucks and an afternoon of work...seems ok.

Matt

**buckroseau** · 03-22-2008 09:03 PM

2 more

Matt

**buckroseau** · 04-04-2008 07:41 PM

I got the body and the other parts sprayed on Wed. night. Had a little computer problem, so didn't get them posted until tonight.

Used the Case IH implement paint. Pretty much looks the same as the DP90LF primer, but maybe a little blacker? Had to reduce it pretty hard, almost 50/50 to get it to come out of the gun well and lay down wet. I used Omni MR186 for the reducer. Layed down nice, I think it turned out well for tractor paint

My rear coker tires showed up today and I got those mounted this afternoon. I am planning on bolting the body back on tomorrow, so I will get some glamour shots for sure tomorrow.

Matt

**brickman** · 03-08-2008 08:13 AM

You have that baby straight as an arrow BuckRoseau, some hard work paying off there I would say. Well done.

**Rickomatic** · 03-08-2008 10:39 AM

I love it when the body gets to this point. It really shows the effort is worth while. Good work!

**buckroseau** · 03-08-2008 08:07 PM

Managed to get about another 8 hours on the chubby today. I spent the first part of the day doing a little more welding and grinding, and some more work with the hammer/dolly...just trying to get things right where I want them.

I then got the booth cleaned up, hung up some parts and shot the body and parts with a good coat of DP90LF. Everything looked pretty decent. I did manage to see a couple other spots I spent a little more time with the hammer/dolly.

I let that dry for a couple hours and then shot a couple good coats of Ureathane primer. I am hoping tomorrow to get that coat of ureathane boarded down with 80 grit. After that, shoot a couple more coats of ureathane and do it again.

Matt

**buckroseau** · 03-08-2008 08:09 PM

Few shots with the ureathane primer on....

Matt

Thread: 1930 Chevy sedan build thread...trying for 3K.

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