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Thread: Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T
          
   
   

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  1. #586
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Robinson View Post
    Do not blast the body!! ................... Maybe someone else can give you advice on blasting... There are chemical products that you can use to neutralize rust on sheet metal like One Step and Ospho.
    Same advice...................don't do it!!!!!!! I've seen guys with walnut shells and plastic media screw up a body, and those are supposed to be better. It still comes down to experience/technique, and even then I'd be very leary of anyone who claims to be able to do it without seeing results first hand.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

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  2. #587
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    Thanks Guys thats what I had heard before from other people.
    Would it be alright to sand blast the engine compartment?
    Some of the firewall needs to be replaced anyway, and the
    shock towers are gonna be cut out with new sheet metal
    put over the holes. Thanks for your input. Kurt

  3. #588
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    Jim,

    Looks good !!!

    Are those concrete blocks just a "collection" you have going on ??

  4. #589
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The frame and suspension look great, Jim!!!! Being a full fledged redaholic, I sure do admire your color selection!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  5. #590
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    Jim, I'd have to take the opposite opinion on body blasting. I've got a guy who's done three bodies for me and all came out good. That said, I did look at others he had done for other people before he did any for me. The main drawback is that the sand gets into every nook and cranny and is a pain to get it all out. If you decide to do it, find someone who has done others you can look at first. Like Bob said, it all comes down to technique and experience.

  6. #591
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    Thanks Falconvan;
    I am mainly concerned with area’s I ‘ll have a hard time getting too.
    Like door jams, doors inside, dash, inside fire wall, inside roof and back wall, under body what’s left,
    which will not be much.
    New skin are going on lower fenders in the rear of car and one piece fiberglass
    front end going on. So there won’t be much sanding on the outside anyway.
    Kurt

  7. #592
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    I don't see how you could hurt much by blasting the firewall and inner fenders.

    Other than having sand EVERYWHERE. Be prepared to use a lot of compressed air to clean it up.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  8. #593
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    Falconvan - I agree that it comes down to technique and experience and one other thing; good equipment. I doubt that Vara4 would get the results he wants with a $15 flea market blaster like mine. Also, it takes a lot of practice (that's where experience come in) to successfully blast sheet metal without warping it. I have been doing body work off & on for 46 years and I have seen a lot of body panels ruined by overzealous sandblasters. Your advice to him is good: find somebody who has the experience and has done others he can look at. Otherwise, I stand by my original opinion, don't do it.

    Vara4 - Firebird77clone is correct; door jambs, floor pans, firewall, and other structural parts that are heavier gauge steel are usually not a problem. It is the outer body panels that are subject to warping and expanding. Blasting the inside of your roof is the same as blasting the outside; it will end up with so many waves you can go surfing on it. If the inside of the roof is going to show, I would brush on a coat of Ospho, let it sit at least 48 hours, and finish it (prime, scuff sand, paint, etc.). If it's going to be hidden by a headliner, I would brush on the Ospho, let it sit 48 hours, and spray on a coat of rubberized undercoating.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  9. #594
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    Thanks Firebird & Robinson;
    Ya it's gonna have a headliner in it. The gage metal on the sides is real thick I don't remeber the exact gage now, but when I went to buy some sheet metal to fix a hole,
    the guy thought I measured it wrong and came out to check it.
    He couldn't belive it was that thick, he found out that I was right.
    I'm not sure how thick the gage is on the roof though, so way take the chance.
    I'll do the ospho like you suggested then sand down the out side.
    The metal on this 1965 Ranchero is a little thicker then the metal on my
    07' Mustang GT. Kurt

  10. #595
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    [QUOTE=J. Robinson;334175]Falconvan - I agree that it comes down to technique and experience and one other thing; good equipment. I doubt that Vara4 would get the results he wants with a $15 flea market blaster like mine. Also, it takes a lot of practice (that's where experience come in) to successfully blast sheet metal without warping it. I have been doing body work off & on for 46 years and I have seen a lot of body panels ruined by overzealous sandblasters. Your advice to him is good: find somebody who has the experience and has done others he can look at. Otherwise, I stand by my original opinion, don't do it.

    Agreed; it's definately not a "do it yourself" project. Some things there are just no inexpensive way around if you want good results.

  11. #596
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    wouldn't soda blasting be a good alternative to sand blasting for sheet metal? it doesn't seem like baking soda does much damage
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  12. #597
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    I don't think you can soda blast with a $15 siphon feed sandblaster. Besides, I have no idea where to get that much baking soda. I think maybe all this blasting business needs its own thread...

    OK, back to the matter at hand!! I have my freshly painted frame back on wheels in case anyone wants to see it. Everything is red except the radius rods and front springs. If you might remember way back when I was fabricating the radius rods, I put a nut inside the center tubes opposite where the rod ends screw in. Now you can see what that little detail was for; I used a short stud and a chrome acorn nut to cap each of those tubes. I think it makes a nice little finish detail rather than just welding a flat piece or a ball bearing over the open end. So far, so good...
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  13. #598
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    WOW J. R. Super job. Even better than I had imagined. Great job on a great project. Getting anxious yet?????????? Perley
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  14. #599
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    J. Robinson; That looks great, nice job. Kurt

  15. #600
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    those two colors just go great together. Keep on posting.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

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