37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[randyr]

I'm sure it looks like I'm moving really slowly on this rear disc brake conversion but it takes a while for all the stars to align in the right phase of the moon....blahblahblah.....

Anyway, this week I acquired a LH anti-moan bracket and proceeded to modify it for my application. I cut off the factory clamp and fitted it to my 3" clamp. I tacked it in place then removed it for welding. I cut a little support piece and welded it all up and painted it. I could weld straighter if I could actually see through my freakin' mask! It's an auto-darken unit and soon as the weld starts, it gets really hard to see what's going on. Maybe I need a new helmet... Anyway, it's welded and I don't think it will break anytime soon. When the paint dries, I can mount it.

Also mounted the housing under the car today, hooked up the sway bar, etc. I keep thinking if I dilly dally long enough, a 9" pumpkin w 3.89 gears & traction loc will appear at a reasonable price. If it doesn't, I'll stick the old pumpking back in for now so I can get the car back on the ground and do other stuff...

[IC2]

Randy - it looks like we abandoned you!!

That rear end in the car - finally - really looks good.

[randyr]

Randy - it looks like we abandoned you!!

That rear end in the car - finally - really looks good.

I wasn't worried....I knew you'd come around eventually...

I'm glad to finally get the rear end back under there. I've debated just bolting the axles back in without the 3rd member until I can find the one I need but I don't know if that would screw up the wheel bearings if I rolled it around the garage very much. What do you think? Even if I put the old 3rd member back in I wasn't planning to fill it with gear lube. It would just be there to have 4 wheels on it.

Hope you got your brakes figured out. And hope your wife is feeling better...

[IC2]

I wasn't worried....I knew you'd come around eventually...

I'm glad to finally get the rear end back under there. I've debated just bolting the axles back in without the 3rd member until I can find the one I need but I don't know if that would screw up the wheel bearings if I rolled it around the garage very much. What do you think? Even if I put the old 3rd member back in I wasn't planning to fill it with gear lube. It would just be there to have 4 wheels on it.

Hope you got your brakes figured out. And hope your wife is feeling better...

I think I would probably put a little grease on the gears and slip that middlin' 80# block of iron in place with a few nuts. It probably wouldn't hurt the bearings with it out, but since I'm the cautious type dislike chancing damage to a hundred bucks worth of bearings for the sake of a few minutes.

I'm going to fix the caliper leak in the morning, then go through the bedding in process a time or two. After the discussion with Dave S and Steve and other and doing some thinking, I'm guessing that I never got enough heat in the brakes with the light car to do a break in.

My wife ....don't know! She had colon resection surgery 4-5 years ago, and has had occasional innard problems ever since. The surgeon's technique is suspect. Or maybe it's just a 'bug'. To her doctor in the morning.

[34_40]

I could weld straighter if I could actually see through my freakin' mask! It's an auto-darken unit and soon as the weld starts, it gets really hard to see what's going on.

Also mounted the housing under the car today, hooked up the sway bar, etc. I keep thinking if I dilly dally long enough, a 9" pumpkin w 3.89 gears & traction loc will appear at a reasonable price. If it doesn't, I'll stick the old pumpking back in for now so I can get the car back on the ground and do other stuff...

Looking good from here Randy! Does your helmut not have adjusters for shading and speed?? You can't weld it if'n you can't see it!

All in all, it looks great!

And I agree with Dave, unless you can keep the axle ends centered in the middle, don't roll the car around as you risk bearing damage. You could use a tube or pipe to accomplish this. Just needs to slip over the splines.

[randyr]

Looking good from here Randy! Does your helmut not have adjusters for shading and speed?? You can't weld it if'n you can't see it!

All in all, it looks great!

And I agree with Dave, unless you can keep the axle ends centered in the middle, don't roll the car around as you risk bearing damage. You could use a tube or pipe to accomplish this. Just needs to slip over the splines.

Hey Mike, that tube/pipe sounds like a good idea. I'll see if I have something that will work for that. To be honest, I think I'm going to have to replace the bearings anyway because one feels a little bit loose and the other seems to have a slight rough spot when you spin it around. That will have to wait till I get the right 3rd member, though.


As for my welding helmet, I've never seen an adjustment on it. It's supposed to auto darken and it's "powered" by light. It was $100 on ebay. It's definitely better than no mask at all but there are times when it seems like I'm welding by "feel" more than sight.....

Dave, keep us posted on the wifey. I hope it's just a virus and not a defective procedure or something!

[34_40]

Hey Mike, that tube/pipe sounds like a good idea. I'll see if I have something that will work for that. To be honest, I think I'm going to have to replace the bearings anyway because one feels a little bit loose and the other seems to have a slight rough spot when you spin it around. That will have to wait till I get the right 3rd member, though.


As for my welding helmet, I've never seen an adjustment on it. It's supposed to auto darken and it's "powered" by light. It was $100 on ebay. It's definitely better than no mask at all but there are times when it seems like I'm welding by "feel" more than sight.....

Dave, keep us posted on the wifey. I hope it's just a virus and not a defective procedure or something!

10-4 on the bearings / replacement. just measure the spline od, beg/borrow/"acquire" a tube or pipe with that id. somebody used to actually sell one I think...

Heck, even my 75 buck helmet has shade adjustments! That's a must! Mig/Tig isn't as "bright" or intense as stick welding. Hence the shade adjusting. Look around and try one, works wonders!

Me too Dave. Hope the wife is feeling better!

[IC2]

Randy and Mike - thanks for the good words about my wife. She's on the way to the gastroenterologist (sp?) just in case. I think she is on the mend though as she has eaten about everything in sight today after not much but baby food for the past 4-5 days.

Now, back to the subject - sounds like you just might need a new helmet, Randy. My no name self darkening seems to still work fine. It's about a shade 3-4 to start then goes to about a 10 when the arc strikes. I really can't see a lot, but can usually follow a straight pass line.

[randyr]

Well, today's activities included temporarily heaving the old 3rd member back into place to hold the axles while I finished fitting the rear discs. It all looks pretty good but I may have double check the clearance on those brake hoses when I get the full weight on it.

I bolted on a rear fender to check the axle location and of course, it's off a bit. The rear end needs to move forward about 3/4" to center the tire in the wheel well. This shot also reveals that the tire diameter looks a bit small and the car still sits a little to high. I'm not sure how much weight all the interior elements will add. I can always add a lowering block if necessary. The tire size may have to change too but we'll just wait & see.

The 3rd member will have to come out again when I find the right gear ratio but for now, this gets me back on the ground so I can work on other things. What's next? Hmmmmm........so much to do, so little time...

[IC2]

At least it's on the ground again and can be rolled around. That third member gets real heavy real quick when you are lying on your back!!

You are right - it is a bit high with need for centering (I do know all about that centering problem)

Choose your tires and, if you are going to change them, the wheels as well. Lowering is easy. Centering means either replacing the spring main leaf with the bolt hole moved forward or grinding the center hole in the spring pad a bit elongated. I wouldn't redrill the hole and adjust the rest of the spring pack as you could set yourself up for potential failure.