Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree27Likes

Thread: 37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 15 of 1567

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,988

    Ok fellas, so I've actually been working on my car again and I have pics to prove it! LOL! I think I said in an earlier post that I was going to remount the rear end using new springs, hangers, shackles, etc because my old setup had the car sitting way to high in the rear plus I didn't like the rear shackle setup I had. I bought a pair of barely used springs from SAC Hotrods on craigslist. I contact SAC to buy the appropriate mounting hardward for them only to find they were closing their doors. It was sad because I've seen their ads in car magazines for years. Anyway, I called in the nick of time and Roy still had the parts I needed.
    Here's some of my process of installing them.....the new springs set a little wider on my chassis than the old ones so I had to move the spring perches on my rear end. I cut the old ones off with a dremel cutoff wheel (several actually) and was able to use them again. To get them in the right place I built a jig with some 4x4's I had laying around (see pic). I wanted the perches to be 42.5" apart on center so I drilled a 3/8" hole in the cross blocks at 42.5". I put a 3/8 bolt in each hole then place the perches on there. I put the rear end on the perches and centered it then set the pinion angle then tack welded the perches. Then I turned the rear end over and completed the welds.
    Attached Images
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  2. #2
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,988

    Wait, I'm not finished yet....then I put the rearend back under the car for a test fit. I'll be using different mounting plates than what are shown here but I don't have them yet. I fitted the rear sway bar in place, too.

    When I put the car back on the ground it is quite a bit lower which is what I wanted. The last pic is how it sat before the new springs. Of course it wasn't quite that high when it had all the interior and everything in it.

    I still have a few more holes to drill for shock mounts, etc. then I'll pull rear end back back out to clean it up and paint it. That's all I got for now.

    Hope all is well with you guys!
    Randy
    Attached Images
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  3. #3
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,988

    Quote Originally Posted by Evolvo View Post
    Randy,
    Good deal on the fixture for resetting the spring perches. I don't want to bum ya out but I noticed you placed your ground clamp on the center section. This is a fairly common "mistake" made by welders. The proper method is to place the ground clamp as close to or on the actual work as possible. The way you have set it up the "ground path" of your welding can be going through the bearings in the third member. I have seen extreme cases of this causing little "ground arks" between the rollers and races of bearings which leaves little stalagmites of metal behind. When that bearing is rolled these break off causing destructive damage. This most likely did NOT happen in your case, but its always better to be on the safe side.
    Good work on getting the car lower!
    Hey E, thanks for the tip! I didn't even think about that. I was just going for the easiest place to get a ground. Hopefully, no damage was done, but if it was, I plan to change the 3rd member to different gears anyway. I got the idea for the jig from another site called Fordification, so I can't take credit for it. He built his jig out of steel tubing though. For a one-time use, I thought wood would be fine.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  4. #4
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,754

    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Hey E, thanks for the tip! I didn't even think about that. I was just going for the easiest place to get a ground. Hopefully, no damage was done, but if it was, I plan to change the 3rd member to different gears anyway. I got the idea for the jig from another site called Fordification, so I can't take credit for it. He built his jig out of steel tubing though. For a one-time use, I thought wood would be fine.
    I was going to mention the same issue, it may also have created a bearing issue.. Hopefully the connection was through the center section fasteners. Other than that, it looks great! You do nice work Randy!

    Could you remind me how all this started again? ROFL.. I thought you were working on the firewall??

  5. #5
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,988

    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Could you remind me how all this started again? ROFL.. I thought you were working on the firewall??
    Actually, it all started with replacing the radiator.....
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  6. #6
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,754

    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Actually, it all started with replacing the radiator.....
    AH! Yes, that's it! I knew it was up front! And let me compliment you on the pics too! I always forget that part.. IF I remember to bring the camera, I forget to snap a photo or two

  7. #7
    bluestang67's Avatar
    bluestang67 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    New Lenox
    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
    Posts
    2,787

    Well this is as far as i got over this time period . Had help but to many anvils to bang on LOL . Got the A almost all stripped of it's original paint . Also took some time off in W.V. really love the state . It's a 40 cal S/W .





    http://good-times.webshots.com/video...02070080HbJkNP



    Randy some good stuff was looking at parts tonight my self on the springs . I did get the sheet metal I needed to fix body . Now this is ready for the starting but still on the A . Want to get it going to make a better scene when it hits Ebay again .
    Attached Images
    Last edited by bluestang67; 10-24-2009 at 11:01 PM.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink