37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[randyr]

If you called SPI you probably talked to Barry, the owner. He is opinionated and fun to talk to - he and I tend to settle ALL the world's problems whenever we talk. His paints are rated extremely well by a lot of pros and are significantly cheaper as he doesn't have to sponsor NA$CAR folks like Jeff Gordon or advertise heavily.

The epoxy should be on bare steel for the best coverage. The etch primer will not allow proper adhesion to the steel and eventually, the crosslinking of the molecular structure with your final paint. If you use the self etch as your primary primer, the new base coat paints can possibly cause a paint lift problem. Self etch is OK under an older acryllic paint like DuPont Centari, but not good under the new stuff.

Did you ask SPI for a copy of their tech manual? This is a good ref doc for SPI

If you have only a small compressor, i.e. 1-2Hp and a 12 to 20 gallon tank, and 4-6 CFM output @40psig, you might be best off with a Sears mid line siphon feed gun. There will be some overspray, regardless, but you probably wont PO too many folks. As far as a mask, as long as you stay away from isocyanates (like in cyanide), you wont need anything more then a North or 3M carbon filter half mask, chemical style goggles rather then the standard grinding goggles and Harbor Freight nitrile gloves. If you start to spray an iso paint or clear coat then you need to consider as supplied air system - which I have.

My hood sides are ready to paint - I had a belly bug and got sidelined for a couple of days of not much headway . Tomorrow is the day!! Hood sides, tops of the front fenders , and touch up any other bare spots, then on to polyester primer, final block sanding, another thin coat of epoxy, a bit of touch up sanding then PAINT !!!!!

Actually, I only had an email exchange with Barry. I tend to make a lot of my inquiries long after the east coasters have gone to bed. I read their steps to a good paint job on their website and it really makes me want to paint my own car! I just need to befriend someone with a fairly dust free garage or a guy with a body shop who'll let me work on mine on the side. In the meantime I just gotta make due. It sounds like you're kinda following their process, too.

This whole epoxy thing is slowing me down, but I think it's a good move for the long haul. However, probably the only rain this car will ever see will be from a water hose! LOL....actually, road trips often end up with rain on some part of the tour.

[randyr]

Hey Dave,

In honor of our 2010th viewing and the fact that we haven't posted anything in 10 days, I'm posting a couple of new pics.
I temporarily put the engine back in my car so I could fit the steering column, brake pedal, etc and know what the clearance issues were going to be. I think going with the big-block firewall was a good idea even though I resisted at first. It will still present some challenges with the brake pedal & gas pedal but I think I'd have those challenges anyway.

I think the engine looks pretty cool in there and I can't wait to get closer to starting it up! For now I just bolted it up to the trans without the converter or flexplate.

Per your recommendation, I order some epoxy primer from the SPI boys but haven't received it yet. I haven't talked to Barry yet, but Terry who processes the orders, seems like a great guy. The self-etching primer that I already sprayed on the under side of floors will have to come off but I'm hoping it will mostly wash off with laquer thinner. I need to get it all sprayed soon because surface rust is starting to happen on the floorboards inside the car.

I spent some time at PickaPart yesterday gathering up a few odds and ends like a potential emergency brake handle mechansim, etc. I got a floor mount one from a late 80's firebird which I think I can install at least partially between the front seats so it doesn't draw much attention but functions well.

I'm kinda wishing I got the floor mount shifter from Lokar instead of the trans mount. That may have given me more mounting flexibility. I'm also thinking that the 23" shifter maybe be a little taller than I really want. A 16" may have been perfect. Maybe Lokar with trade the shifter lever only with me when I know for sure....

Anyway, I hope you're having a nice Memorial Day weekend. You probably have your car all painted by now, right?? LOL

Randy

[Irelands child]

Hey Dave,

In honor of our 2010th viewing and the fact that we haven't posted anything in 10 days, I'm posting a couple of new pics.
I temporarily put the engine back in my car so I could fit the steering column, brake pedal, etc and know what the clearance issues were going to be. I think going with the big-block firewall was a good idea even though I resisted at first. It will still present some challenges with the brake pedal & gas pedal but I think I'd have those challenges anyway.

I think the engine looks pretty cool in there and I can't wait to get closer to starting it up! For now I just bolted it up to the trans without the converter or flexplate.

Per your recommendation, I order some epoxy primer from the SPI boys but haven't received it yet. I haven't talked to Barry yet, but Terry who processes the orders, seems like a great guy. The self-etching primer that I already sprayed on the under side of floors will have to come off but I'm hoping it will mostly wash off with laquer thinner. I need to get it all sprayed soon because surface rust is starting to happen on the floorboards inside the car.

I spent some time at PickaPart yesterday gathering up a few odds and ends like a potential emergency brake handle mechansim, etc. I got a floor mount one from a late 80's firebird which I think I can install at least partially between the front seats so it doesn't draw much attention but functions well.

I'm kinda wishing I got the floor mount shifter from Lokar instead of the trans mount. That may have given me more mounting flexibility. I'm also thinking that the 23" shifter maybe be a little taller than I really want. A 16" may have been perfect. Maybe Lokar with trade the shifter lever only with me when I know for sure....

Anyway, I hope you're having a nice Memorial Day weekend. You probably have your car all painted by now, right?? LOL

Randy

Randy
Looking great - and when you get that pointy nosed '37 front sheet metal on, it will look even better. Are you using an electric fuel pump or is the pump mount only blocked for engine paint? I started with an electric pump but decided that I much prefer the mechanical - and with a Ford, a PITA as most gas tanks are made for a Chebbie, and the line runs down the right side

You will be happy with the SPI epoxy. Don't be afraid to over reduce it a bit - up to 10-15% for smoother coverage as it is quite heavy with the activator itself. You talked to Terry Baker, the owner - good guy to work with for car paint stuff. The etch primer should wash right off - nitrile gloves and a mask is a good idea - thinner can put you in la-la land for a few hours. Been there ...... .

I can't picture the Firebird e-brake handle - but usually the floor mounts are pretty simple. I had always used Pinto's and had a couple of extras until last year when I sold 'em. Something to consider is mounting it crosswise in front of the driver's seat.

If you don't like the 23" Lokar, they do sell the 16" arm separately. I did the same thing and changed to the shorter version. An easy change that direction, but you can't go back again. I have my resevations on the floorboard version though. I think if I was to go that way, I'd probably go for a B&M cable version as they do work well - even their cheapest Z-Gate.

All of my 24-26 separate, individual big and small pieces have been reprimed, the first block sanding done and now to "correcting" the air pops and other scrapes and gouges with "Icing", another block and prime. THEN PAINT. And this week will be a short one as I'm off to the NSRA York, PA Nationals Thursday morning to sell my surplus treasures. I'll do a bunch of pictures as well and post, probably on the Photobucket or Sony sites. I'll try for some '37s as well (other then the Coast to Coast/Oze's creations). My old time '37 fave, is the oddball Club Coupe.

Gotta get sanding - good weather is here.

Later

[mark craig]

One quick question when replacing firewall do you have to put temporary
bracing in before removing old firewall have a 34 want to replace firewall
following your build thanks mark PS body on frame like yours

[randyr]

One quick question when replacing firewall do you have to put temporary
bracing in before removing old firewall have a 34 want to replace firewall
following your build thanks mark PS body on frame like yours

Hey Mark,

Since the body was still bolted to the frame, I didn't bother to do any temporary bracing before removing the firewall. I left the back half of the floorboards in place during the firewall removal & replacement too. If I was going to be jacking the car up during the process, I made sure the doors were closed and things like that to sorta keep things in place. Apparently nothing shifted because everything still fits & works just fine. The instructions didn't suggest any additional bracing either but it certainly makes sense to take it easy with the car while the firewall is out because it gets a little rickety.
Are you replacing the floors too? After I secured the new firewall in place with the screws, I went ahead and removed the rest of the floor so I could clean & paint that part of the frame & modify the x-member. Even with the firewall just screwed in place, much of the structural integrity returned.

Here's a couple of pics of it with the firewall out......please disregard the big mess of wires.....they're getting replaced soon.....LOL

Hope that helps......feel free to ask all the questions you want. This thread has kinda turned into a "streetrod journal" for Dave (Ireland's Child) & I on separate sides of the country but we're both happy to have somebody chiming in....

Later,
Randy

[mark craig]

Thanks Randy that helps I am replacing the floor board directly under the firewall and transmition tunnell the rest of floor is good. noticed in a parts book you can buy rivets just like henry used in orignal firewall thought maybe using those and stich wels rest like orignal any thoughts on that or do like you did weld solid. mark

[randyr]

Thanks Randy that helps I am replacing the floor board directly under the firewall and transmition tunnell the rest of floor is good. noticed in a parts book you can buy rivets just like henry used in orignal firewall thought maybe using those and stich wels rest like orignal any thoughts on that or do like you did weld solid. mark

I don't really know how they originally did the 34 but the 37 firewall was spot welded every inch or two. To remove it the instructions said to drill thru the spot welds with a 5/16" bit, cut thru all the body sealer and take it out. Mine had some extra cutting to do because of some previous mods made to the orignal firewall. The new one is installed the same way using self-tapping screws in every other hole to hole things in place while welding the "un-screwed" holes....check out this installation on Direct Sheetmetals website... http://directsheetmetal.com/pages/typeinstall.html

They don't recommend welding solid because of the potential warping of the metal.

Where are you getting your firewall & front floorboard?

[mark craig]

Thanks randy great instructions I am going to hot august nights in reno will
be alot of venders there probably buy fire wall there amongst other goodys.

[paulo suica]

parabens for the work, was sensational

[randyr]

parabens for the work, was sensational

You're reading this in Brazil?? How cool is that!! Looks like a nice truck in the pic.

Randy

[Irelands child]

You're reading this in Brazil?? How cool is that!! Looks like a nice truck in the pic.

Randy

Randy,
The number of 'fans' just keeps worldwide attention rapt.

Since my wife just informed me that I have to clean up my mess because daughter #1 and grandchildren are coming from Virginia tomorrow for a week( ) and that it might be in my "best interest" to straighten up my work space (the garage that we use as the entry for the house). This means that I'll fall even further behind(I know, selfish) - but it will have a positive effect to see the the kids and do some fun things with them.

A couple of 'teasers' -

[randyr]

Hey Dave,

If your wife is using words like "in your best interest", then I'd suggest you do it! LOL!

Those are some interesting color choices on those 37's. Thanks for sending them along.

Have fun with your daughter & grandkids!

Talk soon.
Randy

[Irelands child]

Hey Dave,

If your wife is using words like "in your best interest", then I'd suggest you do it! LOL!

Those are some interesting color choices on those 37's. Thanks for sending them along.

Have fun with your daughter & grandkids!

Talk soon.
Randy

Hi Randy,
Just checking in to see how things are going with you. Hope all is well

Peace and quiet. It's amazing how much noise a couple of pre-teens (8 & 11) can make. It's not ever a complaint, just a statement of fact.

Finally got back to the car and some more sanding - the doors, trunk lid, splash shields, dash and front fenders are ready for color with the rears hopefully done today or tomorrow (too hot-90's and humid-also 90's to work steadily). Then it will be on to the body, which may be easier then the doors or trunk lid wich didn't have a straight area.

I picked up some small brackets at Syracuse that need to go on the chassis so if it gets too hot, I'll work on them in the "comfort" of my basement garage.

Another "tickler"

[randyr]

Hey Dave,

Great to hear from you. Glad you had a good time with the grandkids. I got to hang with my nieces & nephews in Okla. recently and it was great fun.

Sounds like you're making some progress on your car. You may get that thing painted before summer's over afterall! I hope so. I'm anxious to see that color.

I have been cleaning & painting the underside of mine lately. I pulled the engine & trans back out after fitting my steering column and various other things. The underside isn't show quality but it's good clean driver quality. It would be way too hard to make my chassis "show quality" anyway! That will have to wait until I can get a nice new chassis someday. I'm about ready to bolt the R&P and front sway bar back on. I still need to finish smoothing out the welds around the firewall then I can bolt the engine back in and proceed toward firing it up! It's always a much longer process than you plan for but given my restrictive working conditions, I think I'm doing pretty good.

The 37 ragtop pic is interesting. I would definitely toss those rims & tires if it were mine but it's not....LOL!

Will post some new pics in a day or two. My neighbor has borrowed my camera.

Take care. talk soon.
Randy

[randyr]

Hey Dave,

Our postings get farther apart but I hope that means we're too busy making progress on the cars to be messing around on the computer....LOL!

Here are some pics of a couple of things I've accomplished lately....first, when my dad & I built the car, we cut up the dash to install vertical AC vents, 2 on the outside, 2 on the inside plus a hole for the radio and...don't laugh.....a CB radio, which was popular in the early 80's when we were building this car. Well, now that I have this nifty welder, I decided to patch all that up to have a smooth dash. I'm going fabricate a console similar to yours to house my tune, AC controls and maybe the power window switches. I'll fabricate 4-6" apron that follows the contours of the dash in which to mount the AC vents. I think it'll be a much cleaner look. A skim coat of filler should smooth out the rough spots and it should look pretty good I think....hope!

If there's room, I'll attach a couple of shots of the painted floorboards & frame thus far.

How's yours coming along?
Talk soon.
Randy