37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[Irelands child]

Hi Randy,
Man, that dash was ugly - the "retrofit" sure makes for an improvement. Talk about CB radios - I finally sold mine at a swap meet last fall. Now - what gauges are you using - most of the mfrs have a 4 in 1 that sure would look nice - my preference is Classic Gauges though I'll be using VDO's - simply because Classic didn't have the smaller diameter speedo and tach that I wanted. Best would be retrofitted OEMs (IMO) for yours.

The front of the frame is looking good - but looked better with the engine in place

It has been hottern' the hinges of h@%% with high humidity here and slowing things down but I still am trying to get an hour or so on the car every day. The fenders, grille shell, gas tank, splash shields, cowl cover, running boards and dash are sitting ready for paint. I thought the doors were until I did a final guide coat and 600 grit sand an hour ago - oops, dammit, need some more glazing putty on a couple of places on each door - so tomorrow or Friday will see them ready for paint. Then, the main body gets finalized

I guess we are involved with minutae on our cars right now, without a lot of spectacular changes (well except for maybe a major dashboard mod)is why we have spread out our discussion. I'm still here every day and do participate some in the forum, but have cut way back - it's summer in the great Northeast and "other" things are happening.

Have a good one -

Dave

[randyr]

Hey Dave...

This is the first time that I've signed on and our pics have been reduced to links instead of being open automatically. Is yours that way too?

Anyway, you're right, the old dash was pitiful! But it went well with the old firewall... I have a set of classic styled guages by TPI Tech. The speedo is electronic and the other guages are a 4 in 1 configuration. They fit perfectly in the original holes, white face, black letters, red pointers....beyond that I'll keep it simple, clean and tasteful. I left the windshield crank in tact because I kinda like it and it still works, even though I never open it.

You're also right that the frame looks much better with the engine in it! It's functional, safe and will have to do for now.

Enjoy that heat and humidity! It's about 70 degrees and sunny with a light breeze in Santa Monica today. Looking at the forecast for the next few days, it looks exactly the same.....but I won't rub it in.....too much....

Randy

[Irelands child]

Hey Dave...

This is the first time that I've signed on and our pics have been reduced to links instead of being open automatically. Is yours that way too?...........


Randy

Randy,
I got real pictures - not sure what or why yours would be different

Glad you have those gauges - when I talked to Classic at York, they said that they weren't going to make them in the smaller diameter that I wanted so I chose to go with the 6 VDO's in their Heritage Gold line. I think that Classic will make them now, but too late - my dash and billet surround is done and ready for installation.

The @#$%@&%$# doors are proving to be a pain, but I still hope to have them in fresh primer, final sanded and ready for paint NLT tomorrow this time.

Speaking of paint, my intent now is to have EVERYTHING ready by the 20th so we can leave for vacation in the "sunny" Orkney Isles of Scotland the next day. We'll be back on Labor Day, so possibly paint that week and the next. The only major item left is the body and that's 75% done.

If anyone had told me how bad a Brookvlle body could be............

We have a break in the heat - only in the mid 80s with a lot lower humidity - but rain predicted for tomorrow so will be a good car work day.

Later!!

[34_40]

Hey Mike,
Welcome to our thread. Obviously you've discovered Dave is a great resource of information, posts reallly good pics and just seems like an all around good guy! He has certainly been a great help to me!

Thanks Randy, Sorry to hear that you're under the weather, hope it blows over quickly! 10-4 on Irelands Child\IC2\Dave... all around great guy who takes such good pics.. LOL.. quite knowledgeable also.. I'm not sure what direction you're looking to go regarding the door latches. Is you kit requiring you to replace the door mechansims and latches?? Or, is it a "retro-fit" arrangement?? Or, are you installing just solenoids and linkages?? I know, too many questions! 8-) Mike

[randyr]

. I'm not sure what direction you're looking to go regarding the door latches. Is you kit requiring you to replace the door mechansims and latches?? Or, is it a "retro-fit" arrangement?? Or, are you installing just solenoids and linkages?? I know, too many questions! 8-) Mike

I purchased a kit complete with bearclaw latches, solenoids, remote entry etc. because I figured the current set up is too worn out to use. Both doors usually require closing pretty hard to make them latch. Otherwise, I would just remove the door handles, attach some solenoids, a remote and be done with it. I suppose if someone wanted to convince me that these latches are worth keeping even though the door handles don't look good on the car, then I might reconsider and save myself some work.....LOL! Either way, the door jams need some TLC! LOL!

[IC2]

OK guys, you are trying to give me a big head when all I am is old and crusty

Randy, sounds like you have that flu bug that they didn't get the flu shot right for this year. My wife and I have been fighting off something since Monday - possibly the after effect of the Patriots losing to the Giants

The latches you are using look worn out!! Bear claws are relatively easy to install. That is once you get over the fear of messing up your doors and posts. Measure 3-4 times then cut out the latch hole, patch the post, then install the striker, crank up the welder and finish the job. A little grinding, some filler, primer and paint is all there is to doing the mod. For sure it will be easier then installing that firewall and floorboards.

The price for media blasting seems a bit high, but then you are in the expensive part of the country with Arnold taxing your businesses as badly or worse as our gov. Maybe you can convince the guy to do the underside for the same price.

With the pictures of you car, the paint is beginning to look tired - but if I'm not mistaken, it's 20 or so years old, so expected. Any idea for the new color yet? Most of the '37 I see now are pretty bright

As far as my doing much on my car? Until I can get out in the unheated garage at something more then the 35-40 degrees it has been, not a lot more will happen. The weather forecast for the next few days is chilly with a cold snap/snow on the way for the next week or so. The chassis is in my heated basement garage and I have only a couple more little projects and it will be at 100% ready for the body.

Later

[randyr]

OK guys, you are trying to give me a big head when all I am is old and crusty

Randy, sounds like you have that flu bug that they didn't get the flu shot right for this year. My wife and I have been fighting off something since Monday - possibly the after effect of the Patriots losing to the Giants

The latches you are using look worn out!! Bear claws are relatively easy to install. That is once you get over the fear of messing up your doors and posts. Measure 3-4 times then cut out the latch hole, patch the post, then install the striker, crank up the welder and finish the job. A little grinding, some filler, primer and paint is all there is to doing the mod. For sure it will be easier then installing that firewall and floorboards.

The price for media blasting seems a bit high, but then you are in the expensive part of the country with Arnold taxing your businesses as badly or worse as our gov. Maybe you can convince the guy to do the underside for the same price.

With the pictures of you car, the paint is beginning to look tired - but if I'm not mistaken, it's 20 or so years old, so expected. Any idea for the new color yet? Most of the '37 I see now are pretty bright

As far as my doing much on my car? Until I can get out in the unheated garage at something more then the 35-40 degrees it has been, not a lot more will happen. The weather forecast for the next few days is chilly with a cold snap/snow on the way for the next week or so. The chassis is in my heated basement garage and I have only a couple more little projects and it will be at 100% ready for the body.

Later

Ok, Mister Big Old Crusty Head.....LOL!

You're right, those latches are tired! So is the paint! I'm not afraid to tackle the new latches. I just always like to explore the options before committing to the cutting, you know? As for the paint color, I'm leaning strongly towards Sunset Pearlescent found on the 07 Mitsubishi Eclipse. Ford has a similar color on the Edge called Blazing Copper. It looks like it's on fire when the sun hits it. Of course that look could also be caused by an electrical short.....but I digress......

That quote from the media blaster was over the phone without him seeing the car. I got another quote (again without him seeing the car) from Hotrods & Custom Stuff down by San Diego to completely blast & epoxy prime inside & out for $2600 labor & materials included. That made the $1100 guy sound pretty cheap in comparison. Perhaps either place would be cheaper if they actually saw the car......but that's a little problematic since neither is just down the street.

I hear ya on the weather. We've been in the bone-chilling 50's here lately!!! Supposed to be in the low 70's by the weekend though. Now if I can completely exterminate this nasty flu bug by then, I'll be a happy camper!!

Later....

[IC2]

Ok, Mister Big Old Crusty Head.....LOL!

As for the paint color, I'm leaning strongly towards Sunset Pearlescent found on the 07 Mitsubishi Eclipse. Ford has a similar color on the Edge called Blazing Copper. It looks like it's on fire when the sun hits it. Of course that look could also be caused by an electrical short.....but I digress......


...

Only one more comment today - the ricer might be a 3 part paint vs a US 2 part. And when you price the paint, make sure you are sitting down and holding on to something solid. Mine listed out at about $600/gallon(DuPont) and it took a gallon and a half (but I did get some great pricing help from the supplier but it was still ~$600 plus ~$250 for the SPI clear) and the pearl adds at least 25% to the cost.

[Dave Severson]

Might want to try one of the hammer on it type impact drivers to get them loose, after a thorough soaking with PB Blaster or the equivalent... I usually have to end up drilling them out, retap and use some quality phillips head screws... I like to use stainless hardware on the doors, hood, and decklid but if you go that route, remember to always use anti-sieze compound when installing stainless hardware.....

[IC2]

Randy,
Now I understand why you wanted to change the handles. The GM handles must have looked clunky in today's world.

I at least partially agree with Dave S (Again!). I used this tool, below, when I did my '31 Slant Windshield Fordor. It worked great on the 70 plus year old screws though you will work up a sweat and give the 2# hammer a work out. And as far as using SS screws there, I probably wouldn't. The OEMs are most likely 5/16-24 modified flathead screws, and are extremely hard material, probably at least equivalent to Gr5 or better. SS, unless you can find some after market with the modified(smaller diameter) heads, will not be fully recessed. Also, most SS screws are no better then Gr 2 material, with NF threads not really capable of holding well

[34_40]

Might want to try one of the hammer on it type impact drivers to get them loose, after a thorough soaking with PB Blaster or the equivalent... I usually have to end up drilling them out, retap and use some quality phillips head screws... I like to use stainless hardware on the doors, hood, and decklid but if you go that route, remember to always use anti-sieze compound when installing stainless hardware.....

Randy, I agree with both Dave & IC2. Use a impact screwdriver for a real good shot at getting those screws loose. I would make sure to NOT use a 18-8 stainless found at most hardware stores. If you do go stainless, locate 316 hardware for any structural components. And always use anti-sieze with stainless to prevent galling. I spent some 9 hours cutting / welding / grinding and finally finished the H-pipe and both exhaust pipes, installed the mufflers and testran, it sounds great! I'm on cloud 9... Still need to finish the tailpipes. Not sure if I will go out the back or just in front of the back tires. My arms are killin' me so we'll wait awhile so I can recuperate! LOL..

Mike

[IC2]

Randy, I agree with both Dave & IC2. Use a impact screwdriver for a real good shot at getting those screws loose. I would make sure to NOT use a 18-8 stainless found at most hardware stores. If you do go stainless, locate 316 hardware for any structural components. And always use anti-sieze with stainless to prevent galling. I spent some 9 hours cutting / welding / grinding and finally finished the H-pipe and both exhaust pipes, installed the mufflers and testran, it sounds great! I'm on cloud 9... Still need to finish the tailpipes. Not sure if I will go out the back or just in front of the back tires. My arms are killin' me so we'll wait awhile so I can recuperate! LOL..

Mike

Mike,
Whoopee - it runs. Glad to hear that at least one of us is at that point . With the exception of the frame mods for the rear mounted gas tank, the exhaust system was probably the biggest mechanical item time grabber for me. Then there was( IS! ) the body work

Take a day for R&R then back to work

If you exhaust out in front of the tires, you will tend to cloud up aluminum and corrode chrome wheels with combustion by products (water, acid, H2S, just to name some of the exhaust nasties)

Oh yeah, Randy, you will probably need at least 4 bits to do the doors - they're tough but will distort or tear apart.

[randyr]

Thanks for the heads up about the extra bits, Dave. In doing a search for the replacement screws, I've found a few reproduction houses that carry them, some stainless & some regular. I've sent emails asking about the strength of the stainless screws but no response yet. I really don't care which they are as long as they are strong and paint will stick to them. I hope to never remove them again once the doors are adjusted. While I'm at it is there any need to replace the hinge pins? Mine seem to be tight and in good working order.

I'm quite a ways away for exhaust pipes yet but I'm listening to you guys and formulating ideas along the way. I had originally thought I would just take it to a muffler shop and have it done but the more I read, the more I'm inspired to tackle it myself. Does the aluminized steel use the same welding gas (CO2/argon) that I have or something different?

Anyway, Dave I'm anxious to see that body on your frame. Will that be happening soon or are you still building a bird house?? LOL!

Later guys.
Randy

[IC2]

Thanks for the heads up about the extra bits, Dave. In doing a search for the replacement screws, I've found a few reproduction houses that carry them, some stainless & some regular. I've sent emails asking about the strength of the stainless screws but no response yet. I really don't care which they are as long as they are strong and paint will stick to them. I hope to never remove them again once the doors are adjusted. While I'm at it is there any need to replace the hinge pins? Mine seem to be tight and in good working order.

I'm quite a ways away for exhaust pipes yet but I'm listening to you guys and formulating ideas along the way. I had originally thought I would just take it to a muffler shop and have it done but the more I read, the more I'm inspired to tackle it myself. Does the aluminized steel use the same welding gas (CO2/argon) that I have or something different?

Anyway, Dave I'm anxious to see that body on your frame. Will that be happening soon or are you still building a bird house?? LOL!

Later guys.
Randy

Randy - up early today, eh!!!
You'll be lucky to get more then a D-u-h-h from most suppliers. IMO, the ferrous OEMs lasted 70 years, why SS if you are painting them. If I had the hinges off I would replace the pins regardless (assuming you can find them)

I used the standard auto supply store aluminized steel and it welded nicely with my standard CO2/Argon gas. When you cut pipe off, you end up with a clean end with no aluminum. I dressed the burrs and made a weld prep with a file because I used a sawzall instead of a pipe cutter.

Your anxious to see the body on the frame - but I'm beyond that. A foot of slop in my backyard has to disappear before I can drag the chassis up the hill to the garage. Don't want to get it stuck in a "raw" state in my lawn.

Done with the @#$% birdhouses

[randyr]

Randy - up early today, eh!!!
You'll be lucky to get more then a D-u-h-h from most suppliers. IMO, the ferrous OEMs lasted 70 years, why SS if you are painting them. If I had the hinges off I would replace the pins regardless (assuming you can find them)

I asked them about the strength of the SS screws because one of the suppliers seems to only have SS ones. They also have hinge pins, SS & regular.
Midwest Early Ford

Here's another supplier with both hinge screws & pins...
Dick Spadaro Early Ford Reproductions: Catalog-Page 60

You're right, there's no need for stainless because I just want to get the doors to fit the best possible, paint them and forget about them. I see no reason to draw attention to a shiny stainless hinge screw! LOL!

May your back yard dry up quickly and I'm sure the birds are thrilled with their new home!

Oh, btw, I'm up that early pretty much every day. It's a rarity that I post anything that early though.....