37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[34_40]

I asked them about the strength of the SS screws because one of the suppliers seems to only have SS ones. They also have hinge pins, SS & regular.

You're right, there's no need for stainless because I just want to get the doors to fit the best possible, paint them and forget about them. I see no reason to draw attention to a shiny stainless hinge screw! LOL!

May your back yard dry up quickly and I'm sure the birds are thrilled with their new home! .....

Randy, Like IC2 said. if the originals went 70 years.. why bother with SS? I've had very good service from Spadaro also. The counter guys are always good with me! And if your taking the doors off, then replace the pins just because! Cheap insurance I think!

Also, I bought the duals "kit" from summit for street rods. gives you all the needed parts to assemble a system. Just choose your mufflers. I only own a arc welder (Lincoln AC225) so it's just a bit harder than if I had a mig. No worries tho'.. it's comin' together and if the weather co-operates I might take it out of the garage and make a quick spin around the block now that it's nice an' quiet!

I just ordered a pair of swan neck mirrors from Drakes, they were on special. What do yuo guys have for a interior rearview mirror.?.? I'm not thrilled about installing one but, I'll need one for at least the first state safety inspection. I always find these inside mirrors in the way of my field of view. I'm a bit to tall even in my daily driver the mirror is in the way.

[IC2]

Randy, Like IC2 said. if the originals went 70 years.. why bother with SS? I've had very good service from Spadaro also. The counter guys are always good with me! And if your taking the doors off, then replace the pins just because! Cheap insurance I think!

Also, I bought the duals "kit" from summit for street rods. gives you all the needed parts to assemble a system. Just choose your mufflers. I only own a arc welder (Lincoln AC225) so it's just a bit harder than if I had a mig. No worries tho'.. it's comin' together and if the weather co-operates I might take it out of the garage and make a quick spin around the block now that it's nice an' quiet!

I just ordered a pair of swan neck mirrors from Drakes, they were on special. What do yuo guys have for a interior rearview mirror.?.? I'm not thrilled about installing one but, I'll need one for at least the first state safety inspection. I always find these inside mirrors in the way of my field of view. I'm a bit to tall even in my daily driver the mirror is in the way.

Just about everything major including my frame and body came from Dick Spadaro - but his shop is only 3-4 miles from where I worked plus he used to be a neighbor when I lived in Altamont. You will talk to either Dick himself or Bill when you call. Now I'm about 20 miles from his shop.

My inside mirror is a glue on Big Al's, about a 3" oblong and the outsides are Sun Spec swan necks. All from Yogi's. As far as being too tall - I have that problem as well at 6'4" - and in an 'A' roadster????

I bought my 'U' and 'J' bends along with my Flowmaster 50 series from Summit but the 12' length of pipe was purchased locally.

Now - it's supper time

[randyr]

Hey Dave,
That chassis looks great outside! I'm anxious to see the body on it. I'm sure you are too! I'm liking that color too!

Congrats on getting it pulled up out of the dungeon. Now you'll be driving it by June, right??

Talk soon.
Randy

[IC2]

Hey Dave,


Now you'll be driving it by June, right??

Talk soon.
Randy

Maybe July and maybe even this July

[IC2]

Maybe July and maybe even this July

Then, maybe not.

Somehow, I got a nice big gouge on one of the cowl raised details, and the upper half of the firewall has to be repainted as I did a really crappy job of painting and the primer 'shadows' thru the paint. I needed 4-5 coats on the rest - possibly I missed a couple here, but... I have it about ready, with only another hour or so of prep time - but @#$$%^&%$ !!!

What upsets me about the gouge(it's now sanded and surface prepped) is that I have no idea how it happened. It's on the right side that was facing a wall away from any traffic in my "booth", it was covered all winter and to the best of my recollection, nothing came close to it since.

Dam' those gremlins that sneak in when my back is turned and do these kinds of things

[randyr]

Then, maybe not.

Somehow, I got a nice big gouge on one of the cowl raised details, and the upper half of the firewall has to be repainted as I did a really crappy job of painting and the primer 'shadows' thru the paint. I needed 4-5 coats on the rest - possibly I missed a couple here, but... I have it about ready, with only another hour or so of prep time - but @#$$%^&%$ !!!

What upsets me about the gouge(it's now sanded and surface prepped) is that I have no idea how it happened. It's on the right side that was facing a wall away from any traffic in my "booth", it was covered all winter and to the best of my recollection, nothing came close to it since.

Dam' those gremlins that sneak in when my back is turned and do these kinds of things

Bummer Dave.......sorry about the gouge! At least you didn't run over your hood panels again.... . Did you use white primer on the car? I was reading on the SPI site about using white primer under yellow, orange & red for better coverage.

I'm still working on my wheel tubs. In the process, I've decided to go ahead and replace the trunk floor while I'm at it. The old floor is contoured to dip down about between the frame rails whereas the new one will span across the top, thus giving more clearance for exhaust, differential, etc. I don't think it will take any more time to put in a new floor than it would to re-patch the areas I cut out to have access for C-notching the frame.

I saw a few of your comments on another forum discussing home-made lizard skin insulation paint. It looks pretty interesting. Have you tried it? I'm also thinking about using SPI's bedliner product as undercoating on the body & fenders. Any thoughts about that?

I talked with a media blaster yesterday who is fairly close and much more affordable than my previous quote. He said he would use whatever media I wanted but they typically use a fine garnet. They do 2 or 3 cars/week and haven't had any body panel warpage yet. He said he thought he could do the job for around $600, especially since the floors & firewall are new. I still need to find someone to shoot the epoxy primer once it's blasted.

Anyway, that's about it for me for now. Hope your gouge repair goes quickly and your back on track....

Randy

[IC2]

Bummer Dave.......sorry about the gouge! At least you didn't run over your hood panels again.... . Did you use white primer on the car? I was reading on the SPI site about using white primer under yellow, orange & red for better coverage.

I'm still working on my wheel tubs. In the process, I've decided to go ahead and replace the trunk floor while I'm at it. The old floor is contoured to dip down about between the frame rails whereas the new one will span across the top, thus giving more clearance for exhaust, differential, etc. I don't think it will take any more time to put in a new floor than it would to re-patch the areas I cut out to have access for C-notching the frame.

I saw a few of your comments on another forum discussing home-made lizard skin insulation paint. It looks pretty interesting. Have you tried it? I'm also thinking about using SPI's bedliner product as undercoating on the body & fenders. Any thoughts about that?

I talked with a media blaster yesterday who is fairly close and much more affordable than my previous quote. He said he would use whatever media I wanted but they typically use a fine garnet. They do 2 or 3 cars/week and haven't had any body panel warpage yet. He said he thought he could do the job for around $600, especially since the floors & firewall are new. I still need to find someone to shoot the epoxy primer once it's blasted.

Anyway, that's about it for me for now. Hope your gouge repair goes quickly and your back on track....

Randy

Ya know - it's no big deal, just frustrating with the dig in the paint and really wont delay a thing more then a day or so. I had to walk away from that part of the car today so am color sanding and buffing the trunk lid. I'm amazed at how smooth it's coming out after having to straighten a lot of the surface

I asked my DuPont dealer when I bought the paint and he looked it up. The correct color primer for this paint is their shade #2 which is light gray - and I did use that. He also said that some colors require 3-5 passes rather then the normal 2 times by. In retrospect, Barry's SPI white would probably have been a better choice.

You're really getting into the metal work with a new trunk floor. And you're probably right doing it too. Didn't that originally have a tool compartment in the floor as well?? - it's been too long since I've owned a '37.

I am going to use the homemade Lizard Skin. I had Home Depot mix up a gallon of their best exterior paint, matching the exterior color (and got a few strange looks from the clerk about the color). The micro spheres will be added and on it goes. Vince convinced me to try it and it will only be ~$50 to do the insides with plenty left. I also have a sandwich of insulation in the floor and the carpet pad is Volara, which is a space age closed cell padding, plus it's water proof vs the normal jute sponge-like padding. This is another item that Vince and I "worked on" on a Hotrodders.com thread

My first inclination with using garnet is that it could do a lot of damage real quick if someone screwed up. It's harder then sand (also comes from Upstate NY, North Creek). I had my differential cleaned with garnet - wow. But with that said, I'd take a look at a finished car and go from there. Then off to the epoxy painter's shoppe

Back to my trunk lid.........later

[34_40]

Then, maybe not.

Somehow, I got a nice big gouge on one of the cowl raised details, and the upper half of the firewall has to be repainted as I did a really crappy job of painting and the primer 'shadows' thru the paint. I needed 4-5 coats on the rest - possibly I missed a couple here, but... I have it about ready, with only another hour or so of prep time - but @#$$%^&%$ !!!

Dam' those gremlins that sneak in when my back is turned and do these kinds of things

Dave, sorry to hear about that gouge! But, glad to hear it's only a setback, not a deal ender. Curious about the lizard skin also. I'll have to track that one down.

Randy, ain't it funny how one job leads into another and so on.... LOL..

Me. Well I've been working some more on my exhaust. I did go under the axle and have full tail pipes to the back. Just got'em roughed in last week. Today I noticed on a Chevy Lumina that they have the exhaust pass under the rear axle also. So I guess it works! Won't have much time this weekend as I've got a business trip to Milwaukee that I leave on sunday for. Hopefully I'll have some time the week after next.

[IC2]

Dave, sorry to hear about that gouge! But, glad to hear it's only a setback, not a deal ender. Curious about the lizard skin also. I'll have to track that one down.

Randy, ain't it funny how one job leads into another and so on.... LOL..

Me. Well I've been working some more on my exhaust. I did go under the axle and have full tail pipes to the back. Just got'em roughed in last week. Today I noticed on a Chevy Lumina that they have the exhaust pass under the rear axle also. So I guess it works! Won't have much time this weekend as I've got a business trip to Milwaukee that I leave on sunday for. Hopefully I'll have some time the week after next.

Mike - for your reading "enjoyment":

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html

[vara4]

Dave; How wide is that frame 28in. inside to inside?
Thanks Kurt

[IC2]

I was wondering if we would hear from you Randy - just been too quiet from the Left Coast

I have a feeling that my car this year will be limited to doing the driveway/cul-de-sac runabout while sitting on a milk crate (especially with one of our NY State's finest living across the street). I'm ready - unfortunately the upholsterer is backed up until November.

Bobby - We maintain a "democracy" - all you have to do is post here - one of us will for sure add some babble (BS ?) (just kidding )

Kurt - it's a Stage lll TCI Model A chassis which maintains the original dimensions back to about where the rear 4 bar is welded. Back beyond that, it's different. Then I've added a '32 style gas tank and the supporting framework. If you need particular dims, as long as it's still on jack stands, I can crawl under and get them

[randyr]

Ok, so since the body is now going to come off, there are other things I might want to consider.....like switching from the C4 trans to an AOD, 4R70W, or maybe even a T-5. I've found some info on modifying the x-member to fit the AOD but I don't know about the 4R70W or the T-5. Of course if I go with a T-5 I'll have to come up with a clutch pedal plus a few other things. You guys have any thoughts on these options for the 35-40 frame?

[IC2]

Randy,
I think you can forget the 4R70W - it's a 4.6/5.4 modular and electronic control trans. The AODE and the E4OD are as well and also for the modulars. This leads you to the AOD or the 4/5 speed trannys. As far as a manual in your part of the world - and the traffic - all I can feel is your future left leg pain. Then there is the bell housing, clutch, pressure plate, pedal linkage or hydraulics, the new drive shaft..........

Take a look here:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_C6_transmission#E4OD.

[34_40]

Ok, so since the body is now going to come off, there are other things I might want to consider.....like switching from the C4 trans to an AOD, 4R70W, or maybe even a T-5. I've found some info on modifying the x-member to fit the AOD but I don't know about the 4R70W or the T-5. Of course if I go with a T-5 I'll have to come up with a clutch pedal plus a few other things. You guys have any thoughts on these options for the 35-40 frame?

Hi Guys! We're back!! WooHoo! , Like Dave, between fighting the snow and the cold I've made no real progress to speak of.

Also like Dave (almost) I rigged my garage to hoist the body straight up. I crafted a subframe inside the body to pull from and added 2 4X4's to the joists above and with some rope and pulleys I can hoist the body with just a come-along all by myself. I'll see if I took any pics but I don't remember any.

I've decided to purchase a Rootlied hood and also going with the steel inner fenders, mostly to get that clean fit. More costly but a much better fit with cleaner lines I think.

[randyr]

Hey Dave, I thought I'd post our last 2 email conversations that occurred while the site was down just in case anybody else is following the whims of our car building....LOL! Hope you don't mind.

I wrote this to Dave:
Hey Dave,
Since CHR still isn't working, I would appreciate your thoughts on my latest brainstorm. As you know, I'm going to take the body off now which means I need to seriously consider some type of overdrive transmission if I ever hope to get any kind of gas mileage out of this engine. The obvious choice is a post '88 AOD but after talking with the guy who designed my cam, he said an AOD would work fine but thought it would really be cool to put a T-5 in there. I gotta admit I'm a bit intrigued by the idea. I've been reading lots of info about the T-5, which years are better, etc and I think the biggest hurdle would be putting a clutch pedal back in there and adapting it to work the cable clutch. I've located a clutch & brake pedal mechanism from a 36 ford that I can get for $40 but can the pre-39 pedals be adapted to late model master cylinder since they didn't have hydraulic brakes on the earlier models? I've learned that I can swap the tailhousing from a Chevy S-10 T5 onto the Mustang T5 and move the shifter forward to approximately the original position in my car. I don't think the x-member would require any additional mods other than redrilling the mounting holes from the C4. I'm thinking the swap would cost about the same as a rebuilt AOD. I can sell my rebuilt C4 w/Lokar shifter and recoupe most of the cost.
Anyway, tell me why I should or shouldn't do this.....LOL! I know that with the AOD I'll have to trim a little more out of the x-member and rebrace it a bit but Bob Drake did it to their 35 project so I know it's doable. Anyway, as always, I appreciate your thoughts and opinions.
Talk when you can...
Randy


Dave responded with this:

Hi Randy - heluva thing to have to resort to regular ol' emails to yak back and forth ....and CHR is STILL down this morning at 0904EST.

First of all, I did a bit of an answer to your question on the trans changes on CHR about midnight Friday evening - so hopefully I wont contradict
myself.

While I really like the idea of a T-5, that's almost more work at this point then I would like to even consider. The '36 mechanism, while they can be modified for hydraulics with an adapter would probably IMHO, not be the best way to go - unless you could convert it to hydraulics. There are new brackets offered by Chassis Engineering as well as TCI and more vendors that would be a better choice - they aren't over 70 years old and worn out. McLeod offers a hydraulic throwout bearing assembly that you could probably
make work, but if you have a power brake booster you quickly run out of under floor room with a second hydraulic cylinder,
exhaust, cross members and brake bits and pieces like master cylinders, lines, resid valves and whatever else that might be stuffed in that tight area. If you stick with a mechanical linkage, you need balance bars and various links, usually bolted to the engine - and not all SB Fords have the bolt holes just waiting for that assembly. A cable operated system - lots of under dash mods that might not be easy uless you are going to approach this car rebuild as a complete makeover

Then there is the typical S. California daily expressway parking lots and that quivering left clutch leg!!

The AOD is probably the best way, again, my opinion, to update the driveline without spending an inordinate amount of time or, maybe more important, money - as long as it has the better and hardened parts for a modified engine. The Lokar shifter can be converted to the AOD with different brackets - I talked to Lokar a while back when I considered going the same way.

Later,
Dave