37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[randyr]

[QUOTE=Irelands child]

look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. QUOTE]

I have used and like the Bitchin' and Direct Sheetmetal products. And suggest you get the big block firewall. It gives you a bit more room to work without crowding everything down around the engine. Mine is a Brookville and it came with a 3" recess, regardless of the fact I ordered a 5". I needed the extra 2 inches because TCI set my engine mounts back too far and mods had to be made to the firewall to fit. But that's another (long) story.

hmmmm - I wasn't sure I wanted to give up the extra 2" of legroom. My original firewall was notched enough to clear the valve covers and I need to remeasure to be sure but I think the notch is 3" or less. It seems to be adequate but I'll give the 5" some thought.......do you know who supplies Bob Drake reproductions with their firewalls? They're about $25-40 cheaper than the other two but they don't state what guage steel they're using in the ad. That would be a good question to ask. I've ordered other parts from them that seem to work well.

Direct Sheetmetal is only a couple of hours from me. I could pick it up and save the shipping but I have to pay sales tax since it's in state. Maybe I should order from an out of state supplier.....not that I'm trying to cheat Arnold out of any tax revenue or anything.....LOL!

[Irelands child]

[QUOTE=randyr]

hmmmm - I wasn't sure I wanted to give up the extra 2" of legroom. My original firewall was notched enough to clear the valve covers and I need to remeasure to be sure but I think the notch is 3" or less. It seems to be adequate but I'll give the 5" some thought.......do you know who supplies Bob Drake reproductions with their firewalls? They're about $25-40 cheaper than the other two but they don't state what guage steel they're using in the ad. That would be a good question to ask. I've ordered other parts from them that seem to work well.

Direct Sheetmetal is only a couple of hours from me. I could pick it up and save the shipping but I have to pay sales tax since it's in state. Maybe I should order from an out of state supplier.....not that I'm trying to cheat Arnold out of any tax revenue or anything.....LOL!

A lot of Bob Drake items are made by him as well as imported from the Far East. My guess is that he has a local jobber tin shop making the firewalls for hime

If DSM is as close to you as 2 hours, at least you can go bitch at them if you have a problem. I had a problem with a trans tunnel, called them and talked to the owner and we were able to straighten it out.

You can't always go for the cheapest - occasionally the manufacturer's proximity is worth a few more bucks. I could have ordered my TCI chassis cheaper elsewhere but Dick Spadaro Early Ford Reproductions in Altamont, NY was only 6 miles from work (and he was also a neighbor at one time). I ended up paying 8% NY sales taxes - but he was able to "help" on other items.

I have a chance at the end of the month to help the Governator's tax plan. Whoopee

[MikeB]

Dave,

Thanks for the silicone fluid info. Originally I was planing to use silicone because it doesn't damage the paint, I still may but I figure the more info one has, the better the final decision. My brake system is new and never has had fluid in it so that shouldn't be a problem. To convert from silicone to conventional I assume the system must be flushed.

Thanks again.

[Irelands child]

Dave,

Thanks for the silicone fluid info. Originally I was planing to use silicone because it doesn't damage the paint, I still may but I figure the more info one has, the better the final decision. My brake system is new and never has had fluid in it so that shouldn't be a problem. To convert from silicone to conventional I assume the system must be flushed.

Thanks again.

Mike,
Just a few words of advice - assuming that you have new wheel cylinders or calipers and a new master cylinder - they were assembled at some supplier using brake fluid or a compatible material as a lubricant and protectant. It is not compatible with silicone. Every freakin' rubber piece - seals, cups, valves - anything with rubber must be replaced with new and DRY pieces before you install silicone brake fluid. Use the silicone fluid then for your assembly lubricant. The MC and WC should then be bench cleaned with alcohol. Been there,........ and it is a PITA. But with that said, if that is the way you decide to go, do it - the stuff does work, but IMHO, not worth the additional bucks and effort. If you decide to change back to conventional fluid, you start all over again with the system clean up.

[MikeB]

Dave,

That settles it, I'll go conventional... I'll just have to be extra careful so not damage my way too expensive paint job.

Thanks