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Thread: 37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=randyr]look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. QUOTE]

    I have used and like the Bitchin' and Direct Sheetmetal products. And suggest you get the big block firewall. It gives you a bit more room to work without crowding everything down around the engine. Mine is a Brookville and it came with a 3" recess, regardless of the fact I ordered a 5". I needed the extra 2 inches because TCI set my engine mounts back too far and mods had to be made to the firewall to fit. But that's another (long) story.
    Dave

  2. #2
    MikeB's Avatar
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    Irelands child
    "and don't even consider silicone brake fluid - that adds to a street driven cars problems. (I already hear the detractors gnashing their teeth, but experience has given me a real hate for the stuff)"

    Why not silicone, what was your experience. I've read good and bad and was planning on using silicone brake fluid in my '56 F100, you've put doubts in my head.

    Thanks and sorry 'bout the hijack.
    Mike
    '56 Ford F100

  3. #3
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB
    Irelands child
    "and don't even consider silicone brake fluid - that adds to a street driven cars problems. (I already hear the detractors gnashing their teeth, but experience has given me a real hate for the stuff)"

    Why not silicone, what was your experience. I've read good and bad and was planning on using silicone brake fluid in my '56 F100, you've put doubts in my head.

    Thanks and sorry 'bout the hijack.
    Mike,
    Not a problem with the hijack - as you can guess I kinda anticipated some response.

    First of all, there are two positives:
    1 - None to minimal paint damage
    2 - It is nowhere near as hygoscopic as the glycol based DOT2, 3 and 4 conventional brake fluid

    The negatives:
    1 - Your entire brake system must be rebuilt to ensure that there is absolutely NO conventional brake fluid. That means all new seals, rebuilding the MC and WCs with pieces that have never seen brake fluid. Your lines, MC and WCs need to be totally flushed with alcohol. Brake fluid combined with silicone form a compound that attacks the seals, and eventual failure somewhere.
    2 - It is a fluid that is bit compressible. That means you will never have as solid a brake pedal which is a comfort factor and could be a safety factor with that little bit more pedal throw in case of an emergency stop.
    3 - A lot more expensive and not easily obtainable in case of an on-road need on a Sunday in East Overshoe, Wyoming.

    With that being said, there may be others that will say that I am wrong and they have used silicone for years without a problem. But it is a product that was designed for racing and is best left there. A good DOT 3 /4 is still the best choice for most, including me. I have been using a conventional racing brake fluid, called Super Blue Racing that has boiling points 200+ degrees above DOT4 which has worked out well, but also is expensive. It can be mixed with Auto Zone fluid in an on road need. On a street rod/machine that is not a daily driver, maintenance is the key. Flush the system every year or two, and you'll never have a problem.
    Dave

  4. #4
    randyr's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Irelands child]
    Quote Originally Posted by randyr
    look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. QUOTE]

    I have used and like the Bitchin' and Direct Sheetmetal products. And suggest you get the big block firewall. It gives you a bit more room to work without crowding everything down around the engine. Mine is a Brookville and it came with a 3" recess, regardless of the fact I ordered a 5". I needed the extra 2 inches because TCI set my engine mounts back too far and mods had to be made to the firewall to fit. But that's another (long) story.

    hmmmm - I wasn't sure I wanted to give up the extra 2" of legroom. My original firewall was notched enough to clear the valve covers and I need to remeasure to be sure but I think the notch is 3" or less. It seems to be adequate but I'll give the 5" some thought.......do you know who supplies Bob Drake reproductions with their firewalls? They're about $25-40 cheaper than the other two but they don't state what guage steel they're using in the ad. That would be a good question to ask. I've ordered other parts from them that seem to work well.

    Direct Sheetmetal is only a couple of hours from me. I could pick it up and save the shipping but I have to pay sales tax since it's in state. Maybe I should order from an out of state supplier.....not that I'm trying to cheat Arnold out of any tax revenue or anything.....LOL!

  5. #5
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=randyr]
    Quote Originally Posted by Irelands child


    hmmmm - I wasn't sure I wanted to give up the extra 2" of legroom. My original firewall was notched enough to clear the valve covers and I need to remeasure to be sure but I think the notch is 3" or less. It seems to be adequate but I'll give the 5" some thought.......do you know who supplies Bob Drake reproductions with their firewalls? They're about $25-40 cheaper than the other two but they don't state what guage steel they're using in the ad. That would be a good question to ask. I've ordered other parts from them that seem to work well.

    Direct Sheetmetal is only a couple of hours from me. I could pick it up and save the shipping but I have to pay sales tax since it's in state. Maybe I should order from an out of state supplier.....not that I'm trying to cheat Arnold out of any tax revenue or anything.....LOL!
    A lot of Bob Drake items are made by him as well as imported from the Far East. My guess is that he has a local jobber tin shop making the firewalls for hime

    If DSM is as close to you as 2 hours, at least you can go bitch at them if you have a problem. I had a problem with a trans tunnel, called them and talked to the owner and we were able to straighten it out.

    You can't always go for the cheapest - occasionally the manufacturer's proximity is worth a few more bucks. I could have ordered my TCI chassis cheaper elsewhere but Dick Spadaro Early Ford Reproductions in Altamont, NY was only 6 miles from work (and he was also a neighbor at one time). I ended up paying 8% NY sales taxes - but he was able to "help" on other items.

    I have a chance at the end of the month to help the Governator's tax plan. Whoopee
    Dave

  6. #6
    MikeB's Avatar
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    Dave,

    Thanks for the silicone fluid info. Originally I was planing to use silicone because it doesn't damage the paint, I still may but I figure the more info one has, the better the final decision. My brake system is new and never has had fluid in it so that shouldn't be a problem. To convert from silicone to conventional I assume the system must be flushed.

    Thanks again.
    Mike
    '56 Ford F100

  7. #7
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB
    Dave,

    Thanks for the silicone fluid info. Originally I was planing to use silicone because it doesn't damage the paint, I still may but I figure the more info one has, the better the final decision. My brake system is new and never has had fluid in it so that shouldn't be a problem. To convert from silicone to conventional I assume the system must be flushed.

    Thanks again.
    Mike,
    Just a few words of advice - assuming that you have new wheel cylinders or calipers and a new master cylinder - they were assembled at some supplier using brake fluid or a compatible material as a lubricant and protectant. It is not compatible with silicone. Every freakin' rubber piece - seals, cups, valves - anything with rubber must be replaced with new and DRY pieces before you install silicone brake fluid. Use the silicone fluid then for your assembly lubricant. The MC and WC should then be bench cleaned with alcohol. Been there,........ and it is a PITA. But with that said, if that is the way you decide to go, do it - the stuff does work, but IMHO, not worth the additional bucks and effort. If you decide to change back to conventional fluid, you start all over again with the system clean up.
    Dave

  8. #8
    MikeB's Avatar
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    Dave,

    That settles it, I'll go conventional... I'll just have to be extra careful so not damage my way too expensive paint job.

    Thanks
    Mike
    '56 Ford F100

  9. #9
    randyr's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Irelands child]
    Quote Originally Posted by randyr
    look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. QUOTE]

    I have used and like the Bitchin' and Direct Sheetmetal products. And suggest you get the big block firewall. It gives you a bit more room to work without crowding everything down around the engine. Mine is a Brookville and it came with a 3" recess, regardless of the fact I ordered a 5". I needed the extra 2 inches because TCI set my engine mounts back too far and mods had to be made to the firewall to fit. But that's another (long) story.

    Hey Dave,
    I think you're right about getting the big block firewall. I just got thru measuring my sadly cut up & modified original firewall and it is recessed almost 4" at the deepest part. It would certainly be better to have an extra inch in the engine bay than to be short one, you know? LOL! I also found a couple of cracks in my X-member that will need to be repaired. Wish I could spring for the TCI chassis but just can't do it right now. Will have to make this one safe in the meantime and save for the TCI swap in the future.
    Here's a link to a nice 37 with a 5" setback firewall. http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/Minshew-01.html
    Hope all is well on your side of the world....
    Randy

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