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Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway
          
   
   

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  1. #781
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Don, I don't know what I want to do here. I will be getting about 2400 bucks back from my 54 Chevy but I am going to use that money on that 46 Chrysler 3 window coupe car but I still have a dirt bike and some other things that I can get about 3,000 bucks from and I was thinking of using that on either a old 68 Triumph motorcycle and build me a nice old bike to cruise around or build the T like I've always wanted since a little kid. I'd rather have a old 30's pickup but I doubt I can find something like that around here that would be a project truck and in the 3,000-4,000 dollar range.
    I am looking at Speedway Motors chassis and 27 T (not the track T) kit. Only reason I am going with the 27 T is because it's bigger than the regular T bucket that you have and I want to put in the 302 and 3 speed tranny I have. I'd like to lower it as much as I can without having major problems and only channel it about 2 or 3 inches the most... Give me a few minutes and I will post a few pics from The Hamb of some guys' T's and show you what I like.
    BTW, what kit would you recommend from Speedway for the chassis?
    Shipping might be way too much from them though so I don't know here...
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  2. #782
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    Ok here are a few (please dont mind the so called "rat rod" look, I don't like it either, the only reason I have these pics saved was for the stance I am looking for). Maybe about 2 inches higher than these would be ok but basically kind of similar to what I am looking for... Oh and BTW, this first T I am posting I just LOVE! I like plain T's like that too with no turtle deck or nothing in back and just the tank but no room you say compaired to the 27 T...
    Sorry to take over your thread again Don.
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    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  3. #783
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    Here is a 27 (I think it is) that I found one day on The Hamb and it's a perfect example of exactly what I want besides the interior I was a brownish with bomber styled seats and old spoked wheels with a smaller cheater like slick on the back.
    Again Don, sorry to take over the thread, maybe I need to take this on a PM or a new thread.
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    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  4. #784
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    FMX--The only way to get a 27 that low, and look like you are setting in it rather than on it, like a go-cart, is to bend the framerails to follow the inner curve of the body sides, and put a deep Z both front and rear. Instead of a flat floor, you have to drop the floorpan between the inside of the framerail and the (very skinny) driveshaft hump. And have a skinny ass like yours, not a fat one like mine, that will fit down in that area.
    Old guy hot rodder

  5. #785
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    I owe a few of you an apology for not acknowledging your posts, somehow I missed them.

    First of all, Johnboy...............thank you for the nice words. I am glad you have enjoyed following along in this build. I have really enjoyed doing it, and it has kept me motivated, knowing you all are watching me. It gets lonely working on a car sometimes, and is nice to share some of the good and bad stuff with others.

    Brickman, thanks and yes it is nice to be able to spend some time with the Kids. They are really my best buds, as you mentioned.

    FMX.............those are some really great looking rods you posted. That little modified is as cool as they come, and the '27's are too.

    Brian is right about the seating position thing. If you don't bring the center of the frame down too, you end up sitting really high in these things. I mentioned that this was a problem, even though my '27 was channelled only 4 inches. I put the seat almost flat on the floor, but still sat higher than I would have liked. Can't imagine it if I were a tall guy.

    The Speedway chassis you mention is a good way to go, and yes, freight can be an issue. But I bet they get a good rate, so maybe $ 150 or so should get it to you. Now, their frame is set up to be a little higher than the ones you posted, so take that into consideration. The only way to get a ground scraper is to fab up the frame yourself, and build in the Z's you need to get it there. I like your idea about the 302 and 3 speed, and that is exactly what my '27 was set up with. It was dependable, and had as much power as I needed. The '27 does give you some more room to do the stick routine, as opposed to the '23 I am now doing.

    Thanks again guys, and I didn't mean to be rude by not answering your posts. Sometimes these things get posted as you are typing, and you miss them.


    Don

  6. #786
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    Well I had to close the year out by getting SOMETHING done to the T, so yesterday I tackled something that has been holding me back from wooding in the body.

    The cowl roll bar will be a permanent part of the body once I glass in the floor, so it can never come back out to be painted. That stupid little job has been hanging me up for a month or so now, and this weekend I decided to finally get it out of the way. It had rusted up pretty much due to our humidity in Florida, and the fact it was bare steel, so I spent a few hours yesterday grinding and sanding it to a smooth finish, and last night I put a couple of coats of primer on it.

    Today when I got to the shop and looked at it, there was oil all over the darned thing. Dan had changed his oil in his daily driver last week, and let the oil sitting in one of those open drain pans. It looked like someone had kicked the thing after I left at 9 PM last night, so I figured either Dan or Don had stopped at the shop on the way home from playing. I called both of them, and neither had been at the shop !!!

    I was really confused as to what had happened, and saw more oil laying on the floor. Then I looked up and there was a big crow flying around at the top of the shop. Evidently he had gotten trapped in there last night and somehow landed in the oil and then perched on my newly primered roll bar.

    After chasing him out and degreasing the thing, I sprayed a couple of coats of semi gloss black on it. Now I can install it into the body, and bolt it down for the final time, and start glassing the floor in. I will have to protect the new paint with some bubble wrap or something, and still probaby have to touch it up after the car is painted. But at least that hurdle is over.

    I also made the final brackets for the rear shocks, and gussets for the rear radius rod mounts, so as soon as I can corral Dan I will get these welded in place. Tuesday I will order my chrome rear shocks from Speedway, and maybe a new steering box too. I don't quite trust the one I used during mockup, and would rather have a new one in this critical area.

    Here is a picture of the painted roll bar, sans crow.


    Don
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  7. #787
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    Brian and Don, thanks a lot for your nformation! Don, you should have a PM here in a few minutes.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  8. #788
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    It's the 3rd of January, and I have started keeping my New Years resolutions. I spent a few days starting to clean and reorganize the shop (Wanted to get myself more organized) Moved a lot of heavy stuff around (got some exercise and actually lost a couple of pounds ) and best of all, started working on the T again.

    The first thing I did was finish up the remaining gussets I needed so Dan can do the final welding on the rear axle and get the shocks mounted. I made up two triangular gussets to weld under the axle and onto the radius rod mount, and also make up the lower shock mounts and spacers.

    I called Speedway today and ordered the chrome rear shocks, and also a new Corvair steering box. I didn't like the feel of the one I have in the mockup pictures, and wanted to treat this car to a new one, since I plan on putting LOTS of miles on it when done.

    I also got the 350 engine back from the machine shop. He did his usual great job, and only needed to hone the standard bore cylinders, so I can use my original pistons. He also cleaned those up and checked the rods. While the engine was going to the shop, my Son took his heads over for the 306 CI Ford he will be using in his T. He and I plan on starting to prep and assemble the two engines side by side in the next week or so.

    The machine shop also painted the engine, and I wish they hadn't, as I now have to not only grind the engine smooth, but strip off the paint. But at least it won't rust till I get to it.

    No major accomplishments yet, but at least I am starting to get off of my duff and beginning work on it again. Here are some pictures of the brackets I made up, and also the engine and components.

    Don
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  9. #789
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    Don---congratulations!!! I am glad you are going to start working on your project again. I check out your thread on the forum every morning when I start work in my office.---Brian
    Old guy hot rodder

  10. #790
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    Thanks Brian. Yep, I am like the energizer bunny now ready to get this thing running. My goal is to do something every night, even if it is very trivial.

    Just needed to get away from it for a while and get my interest renewed.


    Don

  11. #791
    Old Hippie is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I've been keeping up with you and the gang and I am going to get back on my roadster and hopefully get It one the road for the spring season (no paint but roadworthy). I am jealous cause you have roller cam block an I don't, 1 piece rear seal, but no roller. Are you going to run a roller cam?
    All of the kool things you'll have made are an insperation.
    Jim
    Less weight more speed; there's no substitute for cubic inches; If it don't go-chrome it

  12. #792
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    Don---My wife tells me that most of the things I do at night are trivial!!!
    Old guy hot rodder

  13. #793
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    Brian, all women must take lessons from each other. Don't take it personally, it's a conspiracy.


    Jim: Thanks, sounds like you are getting close too. Yup, I am going to use the roller cam that came in the engine. It is in great shape, and I don't feel like laying out a couple or few hundred more dollars on a lumpy cam, just to get a nasty idle. I just heard my Sons boat running with the same engine, running through transom exhausts, and it idles rough enough for me right now. If I do decide to slip in a different one down the road it will be an easy thing to do.

    I really did luck into this engine. It was a very low hour marine engine, and the guy insisted we change it out for one with more HP, so I got this one free. One of our Techs put me on to it, and said it could be run as is. I decided to freshen it up a little though in the interest of not having to tear it down again for a long time. I have never owned a roller cam engine, so I am looking forward to it.


    Don

  14. #794
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    Going to put lots of miles on it huh Don? Wanna put lots of miles on it to the shop here in Rock Hill SC?
    Looking good man. I am trying to do the same as you and work on my 66 now every night no matter how tired I am and get about 30 minutes to an hour in. Last night I got my old radio and wires all out of the truck and now I have no more crappy wiring under there that people twisted to gether with house speaker wire. LOL One thing at a time and working slow like that shows little progress but better than NO progress.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  15. #795
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    So you are in Rock Hill, huh? I worked in Rock Hill for a month about 7 years ago. Our company started a new warehouse there (West Marine) and needed some people to go there and help train, so I went. Liked it a whole lot. Nice people, and lots of vintage tin. I could have flown, but I took my car, and had the trunk loaded with tools so I could hit the junkyards on the weekends. Got some nice pieces and pretty rust free too.


    Don

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