Thread: For Don Shilady
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08-03-2014 12:59 PM #1
36 Sedan,
yes that idea has come to me but you have pointed out there would need to be some sort of cup or tape barrier to form a temporary mold for the putty while it sets up. I note that that type of putty exudes acetic acid while it cures which might not be good for alternator windings. Maybe it is better to mold a "dog bone" piece of transparent putty outside the engine so the acetic will not effect the alternator. I do appreciate your suggestion since that may be the ultimate answer. Another wild idea is to use one of those preformed rubbery toe separators used by women who suffer from the effects of pointed toe shoes. Let me try one more new/old post by changing the name of the picture since I really would like to get a picture of my roadster in this thread. Well I tried to load two pictures. One is a picture of my roadster with the name changed and the other is of the drag car owned and raced by Bruce Orlandi which I previously posted and was erased. I will try again with just the renamed picture.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodderLast edited by Don Shillady; 08-03-2014 at 01:05 PM.
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08-03-2014 01:14 PM #2
Here is an attempt to post a picture of my roadster which has been erased using a different name. Well that did not work so just changing the name of the previously posted and erased pictures cannot be used. The obvious answer is to go out to the garage and take some new pictures!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodderLast edited by Don Shillady; 08-03-2014 at 01:16 PM.
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08-03-2014 05:58 PM #3
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08-04-2014 03:24 PM #4
36sedan,
I got a piece of scrap 3/16" Lexan but it is too thick without some carving. I will look into the "electrical" silicone.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientst/teen rodder
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08-04-2014 05:14 PM #5
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08-05-2014 05:59 PM #6
36sedan, that is the best suggestion IF I can find the mfgr. AND the case can be rotated. So far I have not been able to find the mfgr. A label on the unit says: "P/N 13-8283 12V 60 A PASS" but a preliminary Internet search has not turned up the part which is a small unit with a vented case. I will try to track it down it down through parts stores. Off hand it may not have a rotatable rear plate but it is an interesting idea. Let me know if that P/N matches anything you know of.
34-40, thanks for the offer but that is a tall order requiring a 3 dimensional partial carve-out for the corner of the block. At this point some sort of electrical silicone looks like the best way to go but I have a very busy week with my summer job so it may be next week before I can mess with this. I have learned that running the electric water pump with only a mini 60 amp alternator is marginal so I may have to change the whole unit.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodderLast edited by Don Shillady; 08-05-2014 at 06:03 PM.
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08-05-2014 07:40 PM #7
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08-05-2014 08:09 PM #8
Here's what I found, appears to be pretty simple;
Depending on the original application, some units will have to be rotated to fit your particular application. The internal regulator connections are commonly found behind the upper mounting bolt or on one side of the alternator to make access to the harness easier. 10-SI alternators can also be rotated at 90-degree intervals in the event of clearance problems. This can be done by removing the four long through-bolts, which screw into the back of the front housing, and rotating the rear housing. You can also safely remove the rear housing and reset the brushes by retracting them and holding them compressed using a paper clip inserted from the backside of the housing, and then turn the case to one of four positions. After reinstalling the rear case, you can then remove the paper clip and the brushes will return to their contact position on the armature.
NOTE: The above instructions are for permeant magnet type alternators, yours does not look like one.Last edited by 36 sedan; 08-05-2014 at 08:21 PM.





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