Thread: Roadster Pickup comes home on the Hook!!!

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Originally Posted by Mike P

Brian I can not recommend strongly enough that before you attempt to start the RPU again that you drain and change the oil and filter. By now you probably have a crankcase full of gas.......2 worst case seneiros that I have personally seen th results of are a crankcase explosion (severe enough to literally blow the valve covers off a SB Mopar) and/or wiped bearing.

Yes it can siphon and dribble out the venturies once the level gets high enough (the vent tube is higher so you won;t see it come out of there).

One cure that I have used in the past if the tank is higher than the carb is to run an electric inline fuel valve. Once power is supplied (key in the on position/start position) the valve opens. With the key off it defaults to the closed position.

Mike---I guess we were both typing at the same time. Where can I buy one of those electric inline fuel shut offs? I have had an oilpan explosion several years ago---no harm, other than severe and immediate incontinence!!!

Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Mike---I guess we were both typing at the same time. Where can I buy one of those electric inline fuel shut offs? I have had an oilpan explosion several years ago---no harm, other than severe and immediate incontinence!!!

Summit Racing sells them, but I don't know the P/N's off hand. I do know you'll have to search the site for them cause there not in the book

I looked really quick but I can't find anything.. I know I saw them in Summit tho, contenplated getting 1 as a theft deturant for my Falcon.

Check out the propane conversion guy's. They use them on the duel fuel set ups. Barrie has a pretty large industrail base, should be able to find one locally and quick. Propane supplier will know who has what. Sniper

Brian
I have been debating on putting in a keg style fuel tank in my old ford truck bed once I get close to getting road ready, I think I'll stick with an under the bed tank(costly but maybe safer). Glad nothing too bad happened. I'm with you around flamables. About twenty years ago, I worked at a Kragen Parts distribution house in what they called the burn room! Dambed place locked itself down incase of a fire(with you in it!) Needless to say nobody who smoked could work there!

I had a rail dune buggy do this one time. Float stuck and filled the engine till gas ran out the exhaust.

Might think about squirting a little oil in the cylinders before attempting to restart it. The rings are probably totally washed off with no lubrication right now.

BTW When we took the 46 to Tennesse a few years ago the mountain road to the chalet we rented had a turn around area so steep that the engine would start to flood in just a few seconds.

Good luck, Brian.

Mike

"....no harm, other than severe and immediate incontinence!!! ....."

I can understand that.


I used to get them from JC Whitney, but it's been a few years.

On the truck I'm building I'll be running an under bed and cab tank. On the fuel switch valve (single wire electrically activated) it will default to the underbed tank with the key off.

If you can't find the regular shut off valve (or it's going to take a long time to get it in) you can use that type of valve. You will need to plug the inlet that it defaults to so the fuel line does not drain back. With the key on it will open to the tank. Those valves are available at most part stores.

This is a significant problem that effects me with a "rumble seat tank" so I would appreciate it if anyone who finds an electric shut off valve will post the source here. So far I have found on the Summit site a mechanical shutoff valve which I also like for the security problem. In an open roadster it would be nice to have BOTH the electrical ignition switch valve AND a "hidden" mechanical valve. The mecahnical valve is at:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...00+0&x=42&y=11

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don---I have a valve coming from Hortons. It is electric, because I don't want to have to frig with a mechanical shut off valve. When it gets here I will let you know who makes it and post a picture. You shouldn't have to worry about this as your rumble seat mounted gas tank will be below your carburetor anyways.

[QUOTE=Don Shillady]This is a significant problem that effects me with a "rumble seat tank" so I would appreciate it if anyone who finds an electric shut off valve will post the source here.
Pick your brand and style. Cheaper than most suppliers. Bigger selection too. http://www.altfuel.com/solenoids.htm

Nitrowarrior, Thanks, I also found that site but it took a while for me to figure out the Pricing page. According to the pictures the IMPCO FL-206 looks good with a price under $35 but it is for 1/8" NPT while the FL-205 is similarly priced and is for 1/4" NPT. I have a return-call-request in to the sales folks there to make sure the FL-205 will match up to the usual 3/8" fulel line for the SBC mechanical pump but the specs on the FL-206 look like adequate flow with the smaller size. It is just a case of finding the easiest coupling size. I called locally and found a Century 2341 for a mere $93.40 at a CAT repair place but the FL-206 is a lot cheaper and looks sturdy and sparkless. Apparently, when current is flowing with the ignition on, a solenoid magnet opens the valve and when the current is off the spring-loaded valve shuts off so there is no make/break spark, just yes/no current flow in a circuit that is separated from the gas line. It looks like a safe design. Can anyone say whether the 1/8" NPT is better than the 1/4" NPT to match up with 3/8" fuel line?

Brian, sad to say my big/little wheel combo and the 5" dropped axle leaves the top of the rumble fuel tank at 31" off the floor while the carb base is 28" off the floor so it does look like I need that valve when the tank is full. My plan is to have a mechanical shutoff valve hidden in the lockable rumble area AND the electrical shutoff under the frame between the tank and the SBC fuel pump. That way if I park the car on the street at Va Beach I can turn off the gas at the tank in the lockable rumble area and have the usual overflow protection with the 12VDC the rest of the time without turning off the mechanical valve every time I park the car. Brian, thanks, one way to look at this problem is that it is helpful to me and others.

In Edit mode I can report that I had a nice chat with a Mr. Harry Sayre at the Michigan office which should be the closest to Brian and I ordered a 7008A-12V-O shutoff valve. The "O" designation is for a plain pigtail wire without any connectors for "obsolete" setups. This valve screws right in to the side of the carb and takes the line from the fuel pump so this is just an extension on the side of the carb. The price is $24 plus shipping which seems like a very cheap and easy way to avoid instant incontinence!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

1/8" matches to a 5/16" fuel line well and the 1/4" fits the 3/8" well. 1/8"NPT will feed a mildly built engine where as the 1/4" handles much bigger demands such as 350-400 and up HP engines . Carb and demand usage will determine better which should be used.

The fuel shut off that I have coming from horton costs $53.00, but I don't know more about it right now. I just got back from the dentist, had 2 lower front teeth extracted and a bottom plate put in. I hurt, and it feels like I have a 3 ton truck in my mouth!!!

I hear you Denny and it would probably never happen again.....but after once the few bucks and piece of mind can be well worth it. Additionally if a hidden switch in placed in line it can also be used as an anti theft device.

That is what I am thinking. Brian has driven this car all over for a long time and this is the first problem with the gas. Carb probably needs rebuilt so that needle will seat tight, plus he parked on a steep incline/

I don't think I would reinvent the wheel since the rpu has been so good until now.

Don

As I recall most of those needles are brass and perhaps there can actually be wear between the needle and the seat, so for me $24 and one extra wire looks like good insurance. It does seem like the extreme angle of the hill was part of the problem so maybe the needle/float combination tried to float at an angle that did not seal. As I said at this point adding just one more wire and maybe a hidden switch is a small problem and looks like a good idea. Thinking back to my days pulling VW engines it was easy to just plug the rubber fuel line by inserting a Phillip screwdriver in the hose while you pull the engine but with the SBC fuel pump down low I think I will still add a mechanical valve in the line to shut off the fuel when changing the pump. You know you folks have me over sensitive to every issue what with some of the extremely high quality builds and the excellent safety suggestions by Tech1 so I am caught between my own desire to do a good safe job while at the same time running into my own skill and financial limits. Sooo when I see a bolt-on safety goody like a shutoff valve I say hey that is something I can bolt on and that is in my range of ability and it is good! You know there are some SUPER MECHANICS on this Forum so when I see some easy bolt-on that is a safety feature too, then I am going to do it; Holy Cow, restoration is EASY compared to rod fabrication/construction!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder