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  1. #1
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Hoss,
    Here's a simple Pinto Ignition Wiring Diagram:
    -
    Attachment 73924
    -
    Note two wires to the Coil+, the yellow/black from the ignition plus a black from the amplifier. You'll find that the yellow/black goes to a connector, and is a black wire after. That black section after the connector is a resistor wire to drop running volts to about 9V. With your key "ON" you can check to be sure of your voltage before & after the connector. Hope this helps.

    Roger, is the black wire from the amplifier a constant 12 volts or only present when cranking? If only energized only during cranking the black wire from the ign switch, which is a resistance wire, can be replaced with a regular wire of the same gauge.
    I would think the black wire from the amplifier is energized only during cranking otherwise there would be a constant 12 volts at the "+" terminal of the coil.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

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    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NTFDAY View Post
    Roger, is the black wire from the amplifier a constant 12 volts or only present when cranking? If only energized only during cranking the black wire from the ign switch, which is a resistance wire, can be replaced with a regular wire of the same gauge.
    I would think the black wire from the amplifier is energized only during cranking otherwise there would be a constant 12 volts at the "+" terminal of the coil.
    Yes, the black from the amplifier is hot only during cranking, and I believe that if Hoss just adds the black wire from the amplifier (or another source that's hot during crank) and then replaces the section of black wire from the connector to the coil with a piece of regular auto wiring like you say it'll fix his problem, but I'd want to verify voltages with a meter just to be sure, especially on a vehicle of this age that's had a lot of work through the years.
    Last edited by rspears; 09-10-2021 at 12:09 PM.
    Roger
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    NTFDAY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Yes, the black from the amplifier is hot only during cranking, and I believe that if Hoss just replaces the section of black wire from the connector to the coil with a piece of regular auto wiring like you say it'll fix his problem, but I'd want to verify voltages with a meter just to be sure, especially on a vehicle of this age that's had a lot of work through the years.
    Couldn't agree more, sure hope he gets it fixed.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

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