Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree130Likes

Thread: New Project
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 72
  1. #46
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    started looking at engine install today, Have to find out what fits where, clearances and routing of everything .
    NTFDAY, 34_40, JOATMON and 2 others like this.

  2. #47
    v8nutz's Avatar
    v8nutz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    rocklin
    Posts
    601

    Subframe looks great, going to be a nice drivetrain!

  3. #48
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    7,297
    Blog Entries
    1

    Very nice work on the Caddy!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  4. #49
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    Ok guys I'm looking for input on my Panhard Bar setup. I'm mostly concerned with the mount I'm making for the rear attachment. I used 2 x 3 tube with .120 wall thickness. 1 " tube all the way through with a 5/8" bolt in that. I most likely will box in the 2 x 3 with studs sticking out to bolt to the axel. Having never built a car with parallel bars I'm not sure how strong the Panhard bar needs to be ? Thoughts ?
    Is this location good in relation to the rear axel/ most I've seen are above the center line of the axel.


    This pic is of the mount on the car, not sure what it used for in 1937 but it seems to be right for the bar attachment to the frame.

    thanks for your inputs !!
    Last edited by Navy7797; 04-13-2024 at 07:15 PM.

  5. #50
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,643

    Like you I'd be concerned with the box tubing, that's quite a distance from axle mount to the bar mounting. I like the idea of changing the bolts too, come through the box with bolts and weld the head of the bolt in the box. If needed, you could perhaps add a mount from the box to the axle tube and it would triangulate and spread the loading. Otherwise, I'd add some bends to the long tubing and shorten the axle mount.

  6. #51
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    11,044

    My panhard bar on on both cars are from Pete & Jakes, mounted from drivers frame to two bolts holding the third member to the differential housing and two bolts holding the pinion shaft to the third member. I think the brackets to hold the heim are 1/4" - they are stout! The longer the bar the less lateral movement you get as the differential travels up & down, but the longer bar has more flex. In an easy swale where you're going straight there's not much force on the panhared bar, but consider a twisty hill country road where you're pushing the suspension to max G forces in a downhill S turn. You're putting the panhard bar in compression, then tension while going through a mid-turn dip that's trying to break the rear loose. Also, consider that as the differential travels up & down it moves fore & aft a bit in the arc of the parallel arms.Your panhard mounts are going to see those forces and have to be strong enough to put that movement into the bar flex, not the mount or the mounting bolt. Both ends of your bar rely only on the mounting bolt through the heim, in flex.

    Your mount needs to be close coubled to the axle flange, and I would extend it above the axle tube an inch or so but I'd be very concerned with a single side mount that puts all of the force on the bolt through the heim. It needs to be supported on both sides so the bolt is only in shear. Same on the frame end, you need two plates welded to the frame solid to carry the heim. That existing frame mount won't last 50 miles,IMO. How about using a flat plate on the existingg axle mount, extending up with a second shorter flat plate welded to the tube spaced to fit the heim insert? Att the frame, makje a pair of triangle plates, rounded at the top, welded to the frame rail spaced for the heim insert. That would put your Grade 8 bolts in shear, and would be plenty stout!!

    Here's a picture of one of Pete&Jakes panhard bar kits for reference - https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/p...d-stock-width/
    Last edited by rspears; 04-14-2024 at 08:01 AM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  7. #52
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    My panhard bar on on both cars are from Pete & Jakes, mounted from drivers frame to two bolts holding the third member to the differential housing and two bolts holding the pinion shaft to the third member. I think the brackets to hold the heim are 1/4" - they are stout! The longer the bar the less lateral movement you get as the differential travels up & down, but the longer bar has more flex. In an easy swale where you're going straight there's not much force on the panhared bar, but consider a twisty hill country road where you're pushing the suspension to max G forces in a downhill S turn. You're putting the panhard bar in compression, then tension while going through a mid-turn dip that's trying to break the rear loose. Also, consider that as the differential travels up & down it moves fore & aft a bit in the arc of the parallel arms.Your panhard mounts are going to see those forces and have to be strong enough to put that movement into the bar flex, not the mount or the mounting bolt. Both ends of your bar rely only on the mounting bolt through the heim, in flex.

    Your mount needs to be close coubled to the axle flange, and I would extend it above the axle tube an inch or so but I'd be very concerned with a single side mount that puts all of the force on the bolt through the heim. It needs to be supported on both sides so the bolt is only in shear. Same on the frame end, you need two plates welded to the frame solid to carry the heim. That existing frame mount won't last 50 miles,IMO. How about using a flat plate on the existingg axle mount, extending up with a second shorter flat plate welded to the tube spaced to fit the heim insert? Att the frame, makje a pair of triangle plates, rounded at the top, welded to the frame rail spaced for the heim insert. That would put your Grade 8 bolts in shear, and would be plenty stout!!

    Here's a picture of one of Pete&Jakes panhard bar kits for reference - https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/p...d-stock-width/
    I see what your saying about the support of the Heim joint needing to be on both sides , thanks !

  8. #53
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    OK here's another look at the bar mounting

    bar to be located in this area with tabs on each side to support the heim joint


    Here is a pic of the rear where a shock was mount off to the frame (rear had leaf srings originally) Planning on fabricating off this point.
    Thoughts ?
    NTFDAY likes this.

  9. #54
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    11,044

    I'd mount the heim between the shoulders of that mount, or fabricate a new piece to fit using those mounts with Grade 8 bolts, but with the bar running to the passenger frame rail so it doesn't have to cross the third member snout. The problem on the frame end is that your heim needs to swing up and down for suspension travel, not front to back. Fabricate a pair of mounts to weld up towards the top of the frame, inside the C section, or even tabs that weld to the inside at the corner, top and outside surfaces.
    Last edited by rspears; 04-14-2024 at 11:39 AM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  10. #55
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    rspears Thanks for the input ! I looked at that and when I measured the amount of rear side travel it was 7/16"and with the long bar its 1/8". This is going air ride on all corners with movement of 4" total, that's what I did the measurements from for side movement. Trying to keep bar parallel with the rear at ride height its all a pita.

  11. #56
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    11,044

    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    rspears Thanks for the input ! I looked at that and when I measured the amount of rear side travel it was 7/16"and with the long bar its 1/8". This is going air ride on all corners with movement of 4" total, that's what I did the measurements from for side movement. Trying to keep bar parallel with the rear at ride height its all a pita.
    Navy, how about fabricating a new "shock mount" with a ~3/8 flat plate and a 3 sided extension, maybe a chunk of 2"x1/4 wall square tube to put your third member mount higher to clear the snout, and get your panhard bar closer to level at ride height. Mount the frame end at the bottom of the C channel, welding to both bottom and side. You could even add a couple of gussets to the square tube for stiffening, or use heavy wall C channel or rectangular tube. The 2" might have to be 2.5" or 3" to clear the heim insert. Just some quick ideas....
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  12. #57
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Navy, how about fabricating a new "shock mount" with a ~3/8 flat plate and a 3 sided extension, maybe a chunk of 2"x1/4 wall square tube to put your third member mount higher to clear the snout, and get your panhard bar closer to level at ride height. Mount the frame end at the bottom of the C channel, welding to both bottom and side. You could even add a couple of gussets to the square tube for stiffening, or use heavy wall C channel or rectangular tube. The 2" might have to be 2.5" or 3" to clear the heim insert. Just some quick ideas....
    Yup that's what I started this afternoon, pic's tomorrow. Thanks for your input.
    rspears likes this.

  13. #58
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    hers's what have started for the rear mount, 3x3-3/8" angle and 2x2 -1/4 tube. Mounting bolts will be 7/16"-20 grade 8

    NTFDAY and rspears like this.

  14. #59
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    another day of fun lol, welded an 3/16 " flat piece of steel to the 2x2 tube to give me the 1.75 ID I needed for the Heim joint. Cut height to just clear the body Sheetmetal. you see where I milled out for clearance. The pic makes it look thin on that side but its 3/16- 1/4 thick.

    Last edited by Navy7797; 04-15-2024 at 05:25 PM.
    NTFDAY and rspears like this.

  15. #60
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    750

    here's the latest, I had to cut up the cross section of the frame to get the parallel bars in place and these pic's show my fix .
    3 x 6 tube used to rebuild the frame section.

    after lots of cutting and still finish grinding to come. Pic shows full upward position of travel of rear
    Last edited by Navy7797; 04-26-2024 at 06:40 PM.
    NTFDAY and v8nutz like this.

Reply To Thread
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink