Please elaborate on tipping the grinder. Are you saying to maintain a 90* contact?
Edit*
I looked at it, I understand. Keep the face down flat on the surface.
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Please elaborate on tipping the grinder. Are you saying to maintain a 90* contact?
Edit*
I looked at it, I understand. Keep the face down flat on the surface.
Very nice work. I wonder how well the discs that go on an angle grinder actually work?
Firebird- you got it. Keeping the cutting surface flush against the work, rather than tipping the tool so that only the outside edge is being used. It's something that's rarely ever mentioned in "how to" articles, but correcting the behavior in myself has probably saved me thousands of dollars over the years. I felt like I was making progress faster by tipping the grinder, and maybe I was in some type of way: but the damage I was causing in doing it that way negated any time I'd saved . Once I realized what I had been doing, I started not blowing through material quite as fast, and I used a lot less Bondo to hide my flaws!
Ryan- I'm using the 3M wheels on my angle grinder with no issues. I'm not sure of their intended use, but I'm just throwing mine on the old DeWalt and watching paint disappear.
I'm going to get a little off subject here. I'm a little slow and I finally realized PNW meant your up in PNW the corner of this country. I need to give you a time line to finish your 37 cause if our plans hold out, my wife and I are hoping to be in your corner of the state with Rita in about 4-5 yrs. I'll be expecting a ride in the 37 and we need to do a little road tripping with your 37 and Rita while I'm there. :)
You better be careful Seth, if you keep putting on your thinking cap out in the open like this, everyone else might just realize you have one: then no excuse will ever be acceptable again.........Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
But yes, you and the wife are welcome anytime time. Rita too, I guess. We're about 45 minutes north of Seattle, and I've got plenty of beautiful country right outside my front door I'd be happy to show you. The Deception Pass bridge is one of the first places I plan on cruising to in the sedan. It also happens to be where I asked the wife to marry me. Plan a couple extra days out here and I'll give you the real tour.
Sounds great, It's going to be our all the kids are out of the house honeymoon, I'm hoping to take 3 weeks off for sure. We hope travel down the west coast but I just as soon not go any further south in Cali than I need to.
Roof is fully stripped! Just have the driver's side doors left, then I don't have to put that damn respirator on again until it's time to paint!! We all have that one thing about this hobby that just makes us hate it a little bit: and, for me, that part is almost over. At least for this project.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/795/4...0e13db76_k.jpgIMG_20180419_184838675 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Sanding... oooooo I hate sanding! LOL
So, I've been mulling over the drip rails on this thing for a while now. The passenger side was good, but the driver side was rotted through alone the tops of the doors. I looked at a bunch of pictures online and as many cars as I could in person, but I didn't see many modifications that really suited my tastes. Then I realized there's a stock '41 Willy's pickup in my barn that belongs to my neighbor Bill. It's his retirement project, but he's still a couple years away from retirement. Anyhow, if you've ever been up close and personal with a '41 Willys pickup, you're probably aware that they don't have the typical gutter type drip rails, they're more like an eyebrow that's formed into the roof panel and hangs over the door tops. This is something that I find to be both visually pleasing and functional. I stopped by the local steel supplier on my way home from work yesterday and bought two 10ft pieces of 5/16" round stock and tacked it on the roof. My plan is to fully weld it, then blend it into the roof with lead: just like a '41 Willys pickup.
I had considered just shaving the drip rails, but then I realized it's not 1992 and that never looked good at any point in time. These cars need drip rails to look correct, otherwise it just seems like something is missing.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/899/4...041c3821_k.jpgIMG_20180421_170930709 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/908/2...0131abd7_k.jpgIMG_20180421_174935606 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/938/4...68848d64_k.jpgIMG_20180421_175002148 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
That seems like a simple solution to a head-scratching problem.
Top marks than man!
I agree, simple - clean - effective. Way to go!
A good, time honored solution. If you've got any '35/6 Fords in your area to look at you'll see another factory version, or here are some pics here on the site; 1936 ford roof fill - Club Hot Rod Photo Gallery
You might look at the way Ford terminated the back end of it into the belt line instead of having it hang out "in space", just a thought. Done well, it should look good regardless.
Cool idea! Also works well if you want to peak a hood.
Weld, grind, weld, grind, weld, grind.............
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/821/2...73772daa_k.jpgIMG_20180422_154842650 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/4...616be056_k.jpgIMG_20180422_154908529 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Also, only practice new skills in Mommy's car: never in the hot rod!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/867/4...107c7684_k.jpgIMG_20180422_110515308 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Just think, when your all done with this side, you'll only be half way :LOL: It'll be nice when it's done though. It looks like your welder was a bit hot in a few spots or was the metal that thin ? Your daughter has an uh oh face if I've ever seen one :LOL: what a doll, your so blessed!
Yeah, I had to crank the welder up to get it to actually weld into the rod. It would weld perfectly well to the roof, but it wouldn't penetrate into the round stock until I turned up the heat, it just built a little nugget of weld on top that would snap free with very little torque applied. I'll go back later and fill the few pin holes with the welder turned down. It sucks, but it had to be done.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
That face is her "Seriously, you're taking a picture of this?" Lol. Light of my life, for sure, but also a serious test of my patience.
I've often thought of a tig welder for these things, but I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet. Still not sure if it's worth it to me.
I'm in the same boat. It would remedy the infrequent problems that do happen, but they're so infrequent that I can't really justify spending the money. One day, maybe, but not any time soon. Sure would be nice, though............Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Well, it's been a busy week at work, but I finally managed to get off at a reasonable hour yesterday and was able to get some time in the shop last night. Was actually able to be fairly productive, too.
Had to replace the wire roll in my welder first, but once that was done I was able to get the passenger side drip rail fully welded and ground down. I found that I don't get the pin holes, even with the welder cranked up, if I keep the ground clamp within about 6" of the area I'm welding, so that was a welcome discovery. I'm really diggin the look, should clean up well with very little filler.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/4...feec031f_z.jpgIMG_20180427_192452453 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/968/4...57836153_k.jpgIMG_20180427_192458731_BURST001 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
I decided I like the passenger side so much that I may as well do the driver's side too.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/967/4...77834d76_k.jpgIMG_20180427_192709524 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
I also got one of the driver's side doors stripped, too, but that picture doesn't want to load for some reason.
The new drip rails left a bit of a gap at the tops of the doors, which wasn't very pleasing to the eye. So, I decided to cut off the door tops and put some extra material in there to fill out the door frames better.
The gap in question
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/912/3...3819e921_k.jpgIMG_20180428_124754835 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Scribe a line to follow when cutting (don't use sharpie, the line will disappear from the heat of cutting)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/977/4...751343d3_k.jpgIMG_20180428_130201333 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Just a little off the top, file the edges smooth and clean all soon to be welded surfaces.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/827/4...66d5e08c_k.jpgIMG_20180428_130738743 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
I tacked some straps in place on the back of the door to use for alignment purposes, they'll be removed later.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/978/4...1129666f_k.jpgIMG_20180428_141033733 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Fuzzy picture, but it gives a good idea of how much cleaner this area will look when I'm done.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/910/4...ff2d49d6_k.jpgIMG_20180428_140943757 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
It's all these little details that your paying attention that makes a big difference in the end build. I can't wait to see this thing finished.
That drip rail is looking great! I'd love to do something like that to the drip rail on my 37 Ford...of course, doing ANYTHING to my 37 Ford would be a step in the right direction!!:eek: :HMMM: Shut up, Mike(34_40)!!!:(:p:p:LOL::LOL:
There's a big difference in doing too little and doing too much: I'm hoping to find the balance. I try to fix all the simple things that annoy me and alter others just enough to not have the same car as everyone else. Hopefully it turns out like the picture in my head. Wait till you see what I have in mind for the grill!Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
It's not going to finish itself. That's what I'm constantly telling myself. There's a million excuses to not be working on it, and I've used them all. I find that building a car is a lot like a marriage: you're either willing to work on it, or you've already given up and just haven't had the heart to say it out loud yet. Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Haven't been on in a while. With summer time here, and my daughter finally being old enough to somewhat re-establish the lives we had before she joined us, the family and I have been doing a lot of camping, hiking and fishing. That, and its just been too dang hot in my shop to get anything accomplished. I mustered up some motivation and decided to get up early this morning and get something done on the sedan, before the sun made it past the evergreens onto the shop.
Decided it was time to tie up the loose ends and finished the passenger side rocker and rear wheel well arch. I started by making the bottom cap. Took some figuring, and I was a bit rusty, but I got it worked out.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/849/4...92771243_k.jpgIMG_20180728_105705317 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/934/4...e404809f_k.jpgIMG_20180728_105700275 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Didn't end up using much of it, but I made it not knowing how much I wanted to replace. Some of my previous work I had been questioning, but I decided it was better than I had remembered and left it.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/848/4...5ea979ce_k.jpgIMG_20180728_115517289_LL by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Got her all welded in and finished out the rocker once it was in. I didn't bother filling the inner wheel well, since I know already I'm going to have to do some operating in there after I narrow the rear frame rails; that's a whole other basket of worms I'll be covering later.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/849/4...91728c20_k.jpgIMG_20180728_131757966_LL by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
I've waited 4 months to reply!! And now I've got nothing!! Sigh....Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Nice to hear you've been getting some family time, good for you!Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW Rodder
My S.i.L. is over here from Oregon for a couple weeks telling us of how hot and dry it is there. And I'm watching the news right now showing all the fires across the country. What a mess. Scary.
Good to see you post tho'. and with pictures too!! LOL.. Thanks for sharing them, maybe R2 will find some inspiration in them? As well as myself!! LOL..
Another build thrad I missed. Great work and project!
Very nice work there! Narrowing the rails eh? I thought about doing that on my 40 but I didn't want to lose anymore interior/trunk room.
Unfortunately, it looks like I won't have a choice, unless I run the original axle (no chance) or get something so wide that the tires are going to hang out of the fenders like it's 1973.
I haven't measured, but there only seems to be about 8 inches from the frame rail to the outside edge of the wheel arch in the rear fender. I don't really like the idea of loosing trunk space, but with the humpback there's a little more room to play with, without giving up all my storage.
Have you given any thought to widening the rear fenders? How wide is your original rear axle WMS to WMS?
I'm not too keen on widened fenders, just doesn't suit my tastes in most applications. Not to mention, these fenders would be an absolute bear to widen, as they basically fall imediately down from the beltline at a steep angle. The problem is that the rear frame is so wide that the new axle, or just about any other modern equivalent, ends up with the rotors almost directly underneath the rails. Which is no bueno when it comes to axle articulation.
I want to run wider rear tires anyhow, so tubbing it slightly is going to be required anyhow. I don't like the idea of cutting and narrowing the frame, as it's a big chore, but right now it seems like it might be the best option. I'll have a clearer idea of what course will be best once I finish the panel work and get the body off the frame.
Maybe a Jag IFS rear suspension would work back there better? The rotors and calipers are on the center section and not out at the hub. Just trying to throw ideas out to ya. I had ideas of moving my rails in at the rear but found widened fenders for my car already. For now I'm going to run them. I'm not sold on them either but it beats cutting more of the body away. You have to do what you have to do though. :LOL:
For now, I've mostly accepted my fate: I will be narrowing the rear frame rails, and I will be loosing a bit of trunk space. But I have ideas to gain some of it back, and I like the project more than the final results anyhow.
Besides, now my little helper is taking an interest. Gotta have something for her to do!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/931/2...5c4a1ecb_k.jpgIMG_20180730_164844493 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
When I saw the picture above and the words "For now, I've mostly accepted my fate" I thought you were going to say your little friend is not going to let you have this car, it's theirs now! ;)
I'm sure that she'll try to lay claim to it at some point. I already have a savings account set up for her to use if she decides she wants to build her own. She'll have to earn every penny, but I figure it's best to have the funds on tap when that point comes, rather than her losing interest in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
She's usually down for a nap when I get home from work, but the wife always brings her out after she wakes up. Her current skills are best suited to the "creating more work for Daddy" category, but she loves being in the shop, playing with my tools and sitting in the driver's seat. Seems like I better hurry up and get this one on the road, its definitely good motivation thinking about taking her out for her first "date" in this thing. Lots of trips to DQ in our future.
So I've been thinking about floor space a lot lately, mainly in the toe board/firewall area. I want to save as much space as possible for my feet by pushing the engine as far forward as I can. The grill shell is pretty deep from front to back, and wide enough to push the radiator forward at least 6-7". Are there any reasons you guys can think of to not push the engine forward? How far past the front cross member is too far for the center of the engine to be moved? As far as looks go, I'm not concerned about the engine being too far forward of the firewall, I can make something to tidy that up later.
Most importantly, are there any safety concerns with locating the centerline of the engine forward of the front wheel centerline?
Typically a hot rodder type would want as much set back as allowable.
Get the engine weight as close to the firewall (or further back) to better balance the car.
More weight over or forward of the front axle and you'll lose handling.
I actually took the time to measure the engine bay tonight and I don't think I'll have an issue. My main concern was losing floor space because of the bell housing, but I don't think it'll be much of an issue now that I've actually measured the engine AND the car for comparison.
I might have to move the radiator forward a couple inches, but I'm pretty sure I can set the engine just off the firewall and not have to sacrifice much of the toe board to accommodate the 4L60e.
Been slowly chugging along, working on bits here and there. I bought a pretty beat up fender that I found on Craigslist and cut a patch out of it to repair mine. Turned out pretty good, I think.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1879/...23c5caee_k.jpgIMG_20180826_161321183 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
I left the taillight and bumper bracket holes to use in lining up the panels before scribing the patch outline onto the fender. What's nice about fenders is that they're removable, so I can toss them in the English wheel after welding, instead of hammer and dolly work.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1875/...f0bf0c92_k.jpgIMG_20180826_161003414 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr