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Well, I ordered the new motor for my compressor this morning. Tried replacing the start and run caps, even though the old ones measured just fine for capacitance, but no dice. New motor should be here by next weekend, so I should be back in business pretty soon.
I did have to order a new pulley as well, because the new motor will have a larger diameter shaft than the old one. Hopefully they both show up at the same time.
New motor can be seen here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009W8SBC
"Side note: a '37 Dodge sedan is 3ft 7.5in wide across the inside cowl. I've only sat inside it with another person once before, and I know it's tight, but that measurement really surprised me. Glad I'm using the automatic in this one, it's even narrower at the toe board and I like to stretch out!"
I was rather shocked when I put a seat in my stude and found out how little leg room there is. I ended up cutting and extending the floor a little to make more room with the pedals. Did people used to be smaller..?
i hear ya . i cant set in anything from the 30's and only a few from the 40's without setting on the floor in the backseat . how i did it in my youth is beyond me except i was a lot leaner back then :) my favorite car is a 56-57 corvette but there is no way i can drive one .
Yeah, setting in the coupe I can put both hands/arms out each side window at the same time, and if someone else is in the car one of us is sitting crooked or rubbing elbows.
This is the main reason I did not put a cummins in my 40. There would be no room inside after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by v8nutz
I've wondered that myself. Either they were all just smaller than we are today, or the designers were too scared to suggest big changes to the market too quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by v8nutz
In the late 1930s John Deere hired a man to "style" their tractors. I believe his name was Dryefuss. They offered both styled and unstyled models for a couple years because they thought farmers would be less likely to buy dolled up tractors. A tractor is a purpose built piece of equipment, so why would a farmer, most of whom were living on a fairly low income, want to pay more for a prettier tractor?
I suspect the narrow front designs with large individual fenders was a product of similar thinking at the time. People were used to cars looking a certain way and a major change wouldn't have been well received, or make enough revenue to cover the design costs. Look at the Chrysler Airflows as an example: it was simply released before it's time. Too much change too fast. But, if you make gradual changes year after year, the concept eventually stops being the exception and becomes the rule instead. Modern cars are built with comfort as a leading design factor, 80 years ago function was much more important than comfort. But, in my opinion, that way of thinking made for a much more attractive looking car.
I did some Google checking and people were shorter on average than they are today. This chart was written around 1912. I was always wondering the same thing because in my 53, I have the seat slammed all the way to the back and It's almost not far enough. I'm only about 5' 10" ish.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW Rodder
How about a 3.9? We all know you thought of it:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
How about a 3.9? We all know you thought of it:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUiDQd2NZpU
People definitely were shorter then. Go to any old structure. Try getting into parts of the Alamo or try to stand next to their uniforms. It's due to all the bs they put in our food these days. Ask the cows. :LOL:
Seth, don't tempt me. :LOL: I did have thoughts of a CR 4.5 but I'm not doing it. Haha
You need to keep a gas burner in the stable just to maintain the variety. Besides, you don't want that Tudor stinkin like diesel fumes. Something just seems sacreligeous about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
I have no problem with the diesel fumes. And, you don't have to stop at the pump as often as these spark plug engines. :LOL: I won't do that to the 40 though. The Hemi is staying in it. I'm too far in to that to start over again.
Famous last words! :eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
I said that once too :(Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Playing off of previous experience, I decided to torque the body down completely: every single body mount bolts tightened down as tight as its suppose to be. I had to learn this lesson the hard way long ago, and I'm honestly glad I did, because it always ends up revealing something I couldn't have seen otherwise. You don't want to have your project in final paint, torque those bolts down for the first time and find out your doors won't close without scratching that shiny new paint.
The passenger side front door was hanging WAY low at the back. Like almost 2" low. I had already removed about 3" from the lower cowl to make a patch panel, and looking through the hole I was able to see that the A-pillar isn't actually welded to the lower door sill. The bottom 2" of A-pillar is literally free floating, allowing the weight of the door to push it forward, thereby causing the door to sag at the rear. Here you can see the cowl portion of the door jamb is pushed in, widening the door gap and pulling the bottom of the door in towards the driver's side.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4613/...44e10413_k.jpgIMG_20180203_131951404 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Figuring I'd need more access to move the pillar brace it up properly I decided to remove more of the cowl. It'll make it easier to do the obvious repairs at the bottom that I already intended to do. To fix the pillar I put a piece of flat stock inside the channel and cinched a Ford wrench down tight, squeezing the A-pillar tight to the flat stock. Then I muscled the pillar close to where I thought it should be and hung the door to check for proper alignment. Once I was happy with how the door was fitting I hit what I could with a wire wheel and sprayed everything down with rust converter.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4705/...f961f012_k.jpgIMG_20180203_135811274 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Here's the back of the cowl portion I removed. I cleaned it up with the wire wheel and used body hammers to knock out the damage caused from the A-pillar pushing against it. I made a template for a small brace I intend to add so that I can make it on my lunch break at work on Monday. Once I have that installed, I'll patch the rust inside of there and weld the this piece back in.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4671/...0a6fa119_z.jpgIMG_20180203_140242942 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
FedEx dropped off the new compressor motor this afternoon, a week earlier than the tracking information said, but the pulley wasn't here so I just tossed it on the bench. I got curious and checked the tracking on the pulley, and it turns out it was in my mailbox waiting for me. So what do you do when it's 9pm, the wife and child are already in bed? You put your air compressor back together!
30 minutes later and I'm back in the race! The compressor is quieter than it's ever been and runs like a champ. Now I'm ready to get after all the welds that've piled up waiting on shop air!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/...847b9d34_k.jpgIMG_20180203_213845150 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
The doors on my 40 won't shut since I removed the body from the chassis. I'll have to shim and tighten it down when I put the frame and body back together.
Very cool on the compressor!
Very important aspect that many people don't consider, myself included at one point. It wasn't terrible on my '49 Chevy cab, but it could be disastrous on a body as long as the sedan.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
As for the compressor, I think the unloading valve might have been playing into my problem as well. It's a Harbor Freight pump, and I had the foresight to buy the extended warranty, so I think I'm gonna pull it off and get it exchanged for a brand new one just to be sure. Don't want to stress the new motor right out of the gate.
I glad for you that you have the foresight to bolt the body down before getting the gaps set right, I know I learned the hard way. I also see no mater how good the car is, a guy always seems to find more rust than he wants to find. I'm glad you got your compressor going again, I had the same thing awhile back, no air shuts a guy down in a hurry. What pump do you have on the compressor? Mine could be due for a pump in the near future.
It's a Harbor Freight 5 horse, 145 PSI pump. Builds air pressure pretty quickly and runs really quiet. I got it on sale, if I remember correctly I think I paid the regular price for the pump and the extended warranty.
https://m.harborfreight.com/145-psi-...ump-67698.html
Alright, I'm back. Been absent a while, for a couple of reasons. Momma wanted a new kitchen, so I spent the last couple weekends adding trim to cabinet doors, painting all the cabinets and installing new countertops. I didn't mind the old stuff, but I figured she lets me escape to the shop more often then she asks for my help with literally anything, so I don't mind putting my projects on hold to make her happy. Also been "working" longer hours during the week. My place of employment offered to put me through an electronics troubleshooting course at the local community college, so I took them up on the offer, but it left very little time to spend with my family, so once again I decided it best to let the car wait. No regrets about that, it's not going anywhere, and my little girl is only getting bigger and more independent.
I finally got back at it this afternoon, though. Fixed some of that Swiss cheese structure inside the cowl today. I didn't focus too much on making it look pretty, because it can't be seen once it's all back together. Used 16g to make the patch and burned it in with the MIG.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4762/...5e9f33e3_k.jpgIMG_20180222_154303121 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Also used some 16g scrap to make a couple small brackets to brace the lower door frame, now that its been beaten back into the correct location. The brackets fit into the bottom of the A-pillar and stretch diagonally across to the lower cowl structure and up to the inner toe board support. I think they'll do just fine for what I had in mind.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/...ff82779c_k.jpgIMG_20180222_160056454 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Also, final update on the compressor (hopefully). I went ahead and replaced the pump. Couldn't have the question lingering in the back of my mind, what with having just dropped a bunch of money on the new motor and all. I still need to drill some cooling holes in the belt cover I made for it, but it's not a big concern right now with the temperature as low as it's been. I also replaced the in-tank check valve, now it holds 125psi for 2 days without a noticable drop (testing only, I drain it every night when in use). Glad to finally have my big compressor back, the 110v Craftsman wasn't up to the task as a permanent solution.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/...04ed4b63_k.jpgIMG_20180211_125308170 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Just curious, why do you drain the tank every night? You're venting off air that's already dropped out moisture (heat of compression, cooled to ambient in the tank, moisture condenses and collects in the bottom of the tank). If you just pop your drain valve open to blow off collected condensate as you leave the shop I'd think you're good unless you have concerns about your tank. Another option would be to turn off power to the compressor, so it doesn't run at night if it does happen to leak down. Again, just curious, no big deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW Rodder
[QUOTE=rspears;575405]Just curious, why do you drain the tank every night?
Up here in the Pacific Northwest, there is no such thing as moisture free air. Ideally, in a perfect world, your theory is correct: but that has not been my experience. I haven't tried it in a few years, but my old compressor would flood the hose with vaporized water if I left it pressurized. Not as bad in the summer time, but it's so damn wet here 90% of the year that the warm months don't even cross your mind.
It also helps to prevent air leaks due to leaky seals and avoids unnecessary stress on the cylinder reeds. Ideally, the in-tank check valve should be keeping pressure off of the pump heads, once the unloader valve has relieved the pressure in the discharge line after it shuts down. But if the check valve leaks by, and you unplug your compressor when it's not in use (that'd be me) the solenoid doesn't have power to keep the unloader valve open: at least not on mine.
Basically, I've been doing it this way so long that I couldn't break the habit anyhow. Lol
Thanks for the explanation, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it! I can't disagree with anything you've said, it just made me wonder, so I asked.
My logic may be flawed at times - admittedly I'm not an expert - but it makes sense to me, so I run with it.
Nice work on the patches and it's cool you got some free courses through work too.
Welded in the new support bracket tonight and went ahead and closed up the lower cowl. Still have a few pin holes to take care of, but the cuts are closed up. I decided not to weld the door sill in place yet, because I need to rework the lower portion of the gap to make it follow the door better, so that will get a small pie cut and filler piece to make the door gap look as good as the rest already look.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4716/...3150fd0c_k.jpgIMG_20180224_190818557 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
As I said before, the lower door gap needed some love. Cut here, weld there, check the fit with the door in place. You get the idea.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/...7e8b34f6_k.jpgIMG_20180225_160644173 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/...18979500_k.jpgIMG_20180225_173804048 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Nice Patchwork and getting the gaps good. Is the door slid forward on the last pic to make sure that the lines are exactly the same? Just asking cuz it looks like they're touching.
It's either an optical illusion, or the door wasn't fully closed when I took the pic. You can see the bottom corner of the door needs a little love in the 2nd picture of post #63, so if the door isn't fully closed the gap can appear tighter than it really is; it's actually pretty consistent from the top hinge down. I'm not putting a lot of effort into making all the door gaps perfect, even though they really are pretty nice already, but this one was a mess because of that pillar being pushed forward. Part of the character of any car, to me, is the imperfections. I'll repair the rust as necessary, and clean up some of the bumps and bruises she's earned over the years, but I don't want to take away her personality. Door gaps weren't perfect from the factory, and I'm not trying to win any trophies, so I'm not gonna stress about them too much.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
We've had snow here for the last week, but it finally melted off yesterday. Woke up this morning to 3" of fresh powder and it was still coming down hard. I'm confident in my abilities to drive in just about any weather, but I live in a place where I'm constantly surrounded by the dumbest drivers on Earth, and I don't trust any of their abilities on dry ground, so I don't risk it with fresh snow. The wife and I both took the day off and I managed to squeeze in a little shop time.
So, are you sick of looking at the cowl yet? Too bad, cuz that's what you get to see. Throughout this whole series of updates the plan has been to get the cowl back together before fixing the issues in the center of the panel. I did it this way because I wanted the entire panel fixed in place before I started cutting out and replacing the damage so I don't end up ruining work I've already done. I could've fixed the panel on the bench, but I couldn't verify that the fender and door would line up with it off the car. The new metal you see was installed in 3 separate pieces: the main skin, the inside door sill and the lower piece to seal up the patch below the door's front corner. Same process as always: make and fit the patch, tack it in place, check the fit, weld and grind until pleased with the results.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4610/...62aca305_k.jpgIMG_20180226_164033197 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Pipe dreamin'..............
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/...f359587f_k.jpgIMG_20180227_152718112 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Is that the drivers "perspective?... I noticed the center of the dash at the top has a smiley "face"...
Ha! Didn't even notice that, but it's quite fitting. The "eyes" appear to be a couple of dash holes lined up perfectly with another in the cowl. Happenstance, but it probably isn't too far off from the look that'll be on my face when it's complete.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Decided I needed a break from the cowl, so I moved to the rear quarter between the back door and fender. This was the only other place rot was apparent.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/...7d57391f_k.jpgIMG_20180228_144225703 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
After removing the offending metal, this is what I found behind it. A little disheartening, but in reality it saves me from making a big mistake. I've decided to replace the rockers. There's a lot of dirt and debris between the inner and outer rocker panels, and it's made the lower portion of the rockers very thin. Probably not completely necessary to replace them, but it'll prolong the life of the car and I just can't accept "good enough".
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4604/...cb7c3548_k.jpgIMG_20180228_150036616 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Didn't stop me from making the patch panels I intended to be welding in tomorrow. Still needs a little more work, but it's a start. Took a combination of beating the bends into place in the vice and stretching the center in the English wheel to gain the correct radius. 20g would have been easier to work with, but the 16g gave me enough thickness to stretch it out properly through the middle, with room to correct any mistakes. The sense of accomplishment is great making my own patches. Most of the commercially available panels require rework anyhow, so I'm saving money and I'm forcing myself to learn a new skill.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/...562960bb_k.jpgIMG_20180228_155618661 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
One of the benefits of my job is being able to use the machine shop. I have access to a couple Bridgeports, various lathes, a 4' stomp sheer, a 4' finger brake and other specialty tools that I wouldn't otherwise be able to use. I took advantage of my lunch break today and bent up a few panels to make my rockers out of. Reproduction rockers are available, but I don't feel like shelling out $300 per side, so a $30 sheet of 18g and a couple hours of fab time are the answer to this dilemma. I used the stomp sheer to cut 4ftx4in pieces, then bent a 1" flange to match the template I made.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4754/...ffb1b8ac_k.jpgIMG_20180301_142411311 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Once I got home I threw one in the shrinker and worked it until the curve matched the existing rocker. This was a surprisingly simple fab job, but it really couldn't have been done without the shrinker/stretcher. I bought the Harbor Freight cheapo version of this tool set last year, and I have yet to be disappointed with it for my purposes.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/...3f45927c_k.jpgIMG_20180301_145003834 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Once I had the curve right I Cleco'd it to the remaining rocker material and trimmed the excess material. Somewhere in there I cut out the bad stuff and prepped the interior surfaces. Overall very happy with how it's fitting, and it seems to flow well with the doors in place. Hopefully I'll get it welded on tomorrow, still have to get that small piece made under the front door, too.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4701/...fe9abbe8_k.jpgIMG_20180301_165626526 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
Your making really steady progress, thanks for all the pics! I like watching people making panels vs buying them, although with my metal working skills it safer to buy them. It's always amazing how much rust is found in a rust free car :CRY:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Honestly, I don't have the skills either. I just live by the "fake it till you make it" mantra. I know I CAN do it, just not real sure HOW to do it. No reason not to try, though: it's only money, right? Lol. I've screwed up many a panel trying to figure this stuff out, so don't let the pictures fool you: I have no idea what I'm doing most of the time.
Lol, it sounds like we are alot alike.
Didn't get the outer welded on today, unfortunately. Decided I better just go ahead and replace the inner rocker, too. Probably could have just patched the little bit that needed fixing, but where's the fun in that? The flange was pretty thin, I doubt I could have welded anything to it without blowing through. I like new metal anyhow.........
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4792/...281e6cda_k.jpgIMG_20180302_171203077 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr