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Thread: A Winter project
          
   
   

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  1. #16
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    In the previous set you can see the rear leaf springs are gone also.
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  2. #17
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    It looks like you great start on the pickup, the older I get the better a modern powertrain looks to me. I see the shop has a wooden floor, that's kinda neat.
    Last edited by 53 Chevy5; 01-15-2017 at 07:09 AM.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5 View Post
    It looks like you great start on the pickup, the older I get the better a modern powertrain looks to me. I see the shop has a wooden floor, that's kinda neat.
    That's the same reason I did the coupe with coil overs and a Kugal IFS & Wilwood discs at each corner. Handles like a slot car!

    My shop used to be a rented function hall, known as Pine Hill Pavilion. It started as a way to keep the farm solvent during the depression then ran until the late 80's.. Liability insurances and required code upgrades ended that.

  4. #19
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    the limit is just the off set. the swap is very easy but stock style wheels are all that will work. hub to hub they are really wide. your right though they are the new mmll . my next project is a big window chevy on c4 suspension .

  5. #20
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    Mike, I don't know how I missed this one but thanks for the pics....because, like you said in the first post.....

    I've seen lots of these CV swaps on the 60's & 70's Ford trucks but not too many on the 50's. I hope you did a lot of boxing of the frame rails on the front because there are those "engineer types" who don't have much faith in bolting a "no-flex" aluminum cross member to a "flex-steel" chassis. Depending on how it gets driven, eventually something is bound to give. Beefing up the front frame rails should help ward off this potential problem.

    The issue with the flange-to-flange width is that, as mentioned, the late-model offset wheels are required to keep the tires under the fenders. Those who like "deep-dish" wheels should probably not use this suspension. However, most wheel options that work on late-model Mustangs will probably work on this truck.

    It's nice to see you using the big-ass shop again!!! I'm so jealous!!!
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  6. #21
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    I would probably keep a sheet of 20 GA handy for protecting that floor. Cardboard will absorb small oil spills, cushions slightly and let's you slide around better than a creeper.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine View Post
    the limit is just the off set. the swap is very easy but stock style wheels are all that will work. hub to hub they are really wide. your right though they are the new mll .
    I figured the limit part out recently. And yes, they are really wide. Personally, I'm not a fan because of the look you end up with. I think I'd rather do a M2 type install. I had been considering this (Vicky) for the 48 F1 but not so sure now.

    Big window chevy??? as in suburban?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    I figured the limit part out recently. And yes, they are really wide. Personally, I'm not a fan because of the look you end up with. I think I'd rather do a M2 type install. I had been considering this (Vicky) for the 48 F1 but not so sure now.

    Big window chevy??? as in suburban?
    Industrial Chassis Inc. These guys have developed a crossmember kit using Dodge Dakota A-arms, R&P, disc brakes, etc. It's a quality, well engineered kit that is the correct width and there are ways to keep the 5x5.5 bolt pattern to match the rear end if you wanted. It would be worth checking out....
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Mike, I don't know how I missed this one but thanks for the pics....because, like you said in the first post.....

    I've seen lots of these CV swaps on the 60's & 70's Ford trucks but not too many on the 50's. I hope you did a lot of boxing of the frame rails on the front because there are those "engineer types" who don't have much faith in bolting a "no-flex" aluminum cross member to a "flex-steel" chassis. Depending on how it gets driven, eventually something is bound to give. Beefing up the front frame rails should help ward off this potential problem.

    The issue with the flange-to-flange width is that, as mentioned, the late-model offset wheels are required to keep the tires under the fenders. Those who like "deep-dish" wheels should probably not use this suspension. However, most wheel options that work on late-model Mustangs will probably work on this truck.

    It's nice to see you using the big-ass shop again!!! I'm so jealous!!!
    Glad you like the pics! And yes, everything under the hood and cab is boxed or getting boxed. The CV frame is really stout and sections of it have some type of epoxy type filler. So it is REALLY STIFF! We're trying to sort the rear suspension as I type. I want to do 4 link/bar with coil overs and a panhard bar. Mark wants to keep the stock coils and bars and watts but the frame distance just won't work imho..

    To bad you're on the wrong side of the country.. I'll make room for ya!
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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    I would probably keep a sheet of 20 GA handy for protecting that floor. Cardboard will absorb small oil spills, cushions slightly and let's you slide around better than a creeper.
    We used to worry about the floor all the time... after the first 12 or 13 years then we became lax in the spills and drips. I do have a protective metal sheet that I use when welding, like a big cookie sheet. Works good to catch the slag dropouts.
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  11. #26
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    I thought it looked like some sort of Hall/Gym when I seen the doors in the background. Its neat to have that history in a building. I weld and torch a lot on a 3/4 sheet of plywood on two plastic saw horses, its surprising how it never seems to catch on fire.
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5 View Post
    I thought it looked like some sort of Hall/Gym when I seen the doors in the background. Its neat to have that history in a building. I weld and torch a lot on a 3/4 sheet of plywood on two plastic saw horses, its surprising how it never seems to catch on fire.
    I used to use a half sheet of plywood. It has a couple of burn through points. As does the floor! So I started with the metal pan.
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    Ha!
    I also got reprimanded for my weld area on this site!

    I get a LOT more serious about things when I break out the cutting torch though.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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  14. #29
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    Nice progress on the truck! You have a little bit of everything in there. I really like the building. I think we need some out door pics of it. I dig the fire place or chimney too. Very cool. All that room must be nice! I don't think I could do some of my work in there. I'd be afraid of rolling an engine hoist across that nice floor.
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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Nice progress on the truck! You have a little bit of everything in there. I really like the building. I think we need some out door pics of it. I dig the fire place or chimney too. Very cool. All that room must be nice! I don't think I could do some of my work in there. I'd be afraid of rolling an engine hoist across that nice floor.
    Thanks.. I noticed you didn't make any progress so I figured I better show some! LOL

    If we get a good day I'll snap 1 or 2 outside. ( it's much better inside than out!)

    If I was dragging diesel motors around I'd be concerned, but that hard maple just doesn't seem to care.
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