i like the step drills . 4 replaced a full set of bits.
growing up in the country you find out your treated with the same stuff as live stock . granpa called it wolves fat just to screw with me .
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i like the step drills . 4 replaced a full set of bits.
growing up in the country you find out your treated with the same stuff as live stock . granpa called it wolves fat just to screw with me .
I've also used the udder balm as treatment for finger HANG NAILS especially during colder months of the year-----
dry feet also
When I was younger I was told of an old Indian chief, named chief Soh Cah Toa.Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
Sine=Opposite over Hypotenuse, Cosine=Adjacent over Hypotenuse, Tangent=Opposite over Adjacent.
A dead easy way of remembering.
Well it was for a dumb-ass like me!
Sorry to go off-topic; but couldn't resist!
Nice work. Those tie downs are a great addition! What's the deal with the rusty rotor? :LOL: Just busting your chops.
I do have a set of step bits, I wasn't sure if I would use them much but I think I use them more than regular bits. Best investment in a long time. Good thing I wasn't using step bits that night or I'd have a 7/8 size hole in my hand :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I leave them that way to remind me of what the whole pickup looked like at one time :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
The step drills don't catch like 2 flute drills do-by design they only take out a fine amount of material------
If you get them hot enough they will. :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Finally got the door windows in. I've been wanting these in for a long time now. I started with the drivers side and it just fell together and worked perfect, took about an hour start to finish. I thought great now I have experience and the passenger window is going to go better. Wrong wrong wrong. I bet I fought that thing for 3 hours start to finish, I don't know what was different but I was less than happy by the time we got it in. I have Altman bear claw latches and the window channel runs to close to the latch and would hang it up with the window rolled down. I had to shim that out a bit but other than that and fighting the passenger side it went well. Anyone have a good way to attach the felt strip back on the surround trim. They used some metal stapler but I was going to look for some very small screws.
be glad it is not a ford truck. no inside trim so you are stuck with no adjustment. problem is the new glass/felt runs/ whiskers are all just a little thicker than orig .i left the inside whisker out so the glass would move freely.
"......Anyone have a good way to attach the felt strip back on the surround trim. They used some metal stapler but I was going to look for some very small screws. ...."
I've been using short 1/8" pop rivets to attach the felts for years. The head of the rivet goes on the felt side and when you set it it will pull itself in below the height of the felt so it doesn't scratch the glass.
If you can find black rivets great, but if not a touch with a black permanent marker on the head of the rivet pretty much makes them disappear.
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Picked up a rivet gun kit at Bomgars today and your right, that worked great. A little bit of black paint pen on the rivots and you can't see a thing. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
Well I've learned something new today; thank-you Mr Mike!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
We've got four windows in three different vehicles that need new felts.
I've looked at them on several occasions and have been baffled as to how to go about it, I was going to take them to a shop; but now I'm brave enough to have a go myself.
Your idea makes perfect sense.
Thanks again!
(And if perchance I muck it up I can just drill the rivets out!)
Got the door panels and headliner in, kick panels and carpet ordered so now it's time to start on the back half. New parts doesn't mean perfect parts. I smoothed out the spot welds and a small dent in the tailgate. I sanded up one rear fender where it was damaged a bit in shipping, you can see the low spot when I sanded it. Not to much of a big deal because i want to cover the rivets up anyhow. I was going to hit the rivets with a bit of media blast, epoxy the hole shut then mud over that. I thought about welding the hole shut but I already have the inside Rhino lined and welding warps stuff to fast. Let me know if the epoxy thing is a bad idea :confused:
Seth, that is looking nice from here.
Door panels and headliner huh.......I can relate to that it's how I've been spending my last few days. :LOL:
That's looking good. You did a lot of work smoothing the tailgate that a lot of people would have just let go.
What are you going to do for tail gate latches on it?
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Times 3! Looks real nice.
Thanks for the compliments guys, I kinda wanted to just paint it but the Mrs said I would regret it so I cleaned em up a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
As for the latches, I was going to put in the stealth latches but they won't work unless the pull knobs are on the top because of how thick the top tube of the gate is. The pin hole would also be right on the curve of a stake pocket , so I am going to use a stainless bolt and and wingnut and bolt it shut. I think that may be an extra good thing because otherwise there would also be no box side support in the back by the gate. The closest path to a hard surface road from me is 1 1/2 miles and the gravel road can get kinda rough at times.
I got the rivet holes epoxied tonight and put a coat of filler on the door access panels and that's about it tonight. I'm think I'll have a beer and watch TV for awhile, kinda sick of it for right now :whacked:
Heck yeah, take a break... but first what is that shiny piece in the middle?
It's getting there and looking good,.......believe me I fully understand the "....kinda sick of it for right now....." feeling.
I did a 76 Dodge 1/2 ton 8 or 9 years ago. Eliminating the chains and doing latches took a bit of standing around figuring to get it where I was happy with it :whacked:
I actually ended up building my own bolts (held them on with carriage bolts with the heads on the outside of the tailgate) which turned out to be simpler than I thought. Anyway this is what I came up with form mine by the time I got done.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...project-7.html
My tailgate had a piece that wrapped around the bed that I retained when I cut the chain loops off so I didn't have to worry about the bed sides spreading and the gate flopping open.
I can see where the bolt and wing nut idea is a nice simple solution. Carriage head bolts thru the tail gate would give you the studs for the wingnuts and a small piece of angle iron attached to the bed side with a hole in it for the studs to go thru would be really easy to do..........might just steal that idea for my 37 Dodge when I get tired of hearing the chains bang around in the back :rolleyes:
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That's the rivet, the epoxy is clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Actually the holes to bolt it shut are there already, it's where the chain hook goes through the box and gate together to hold the gate shut. I kinda like what you did there, I never did think of mounting the release on the outside of the gate ( bed side ) vs hiding it inside the tailgate itself. I was also wondering how to put the cables in but the way you did it seems nice and simple. I had an over elaborate plan that was sure to fail.:LOL: I have the box all apart now but I will check things out again when I bolt it together b/f I paint. I still may use the bolts to keep things tight because I doubt I will open the tailgate much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
Pretty much sanded all day today, I was dreading it but I got the both box sides, front panel and both fenders sanded up. That's about it for today and man am I glad that's done **)
I meant the middle picture, I was thinking that piece was to hold the tailgate closed.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Oh, that's the stealth latch I bought for the tailgate. I don't think it will be very stealthy where im going to mount it.
Like putting a large sign up " Enter This Way Please " ?
Or they could just climb over the side of the box :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
Latest work done is I got the rear fender rivets smoothed out and the small dent fixed. I am working on smoothing the spot welds on the box witch won't take too much. I got a different rearend for it that I will pick up Sat. The rearend I have, I found out the posi clutches are fried, it's 7.5 and not an 8.8 so now is the time to make that right. Now I have an 8.8 with 3.73 posi out of an Explorer.
I ordered kick panels with speakers for my radio and wouldn't you know it, the drivers speaker goes right where my fuse box was mounted.I took loose everything that was previously permanent and finished, thankfully I left enough wire so I'll be able to move my fuse box to the other side of the steering column. It's actually a nicer place anyway.
Bummer. At least now I know I'm not the only one that has to "revisit" things I think I'm done with.
Are you going to have to narrow the Explorer rear?
"...... the drivers speaker goes right where my fuse box was mounted........."
Yup you must have borrowed some of my luck.
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Seth, what brand are those speakers? If they are custom audio sound, go buy a new pair before you bolt them in because their speakers are terrible. Not a good convo piece for me. :LOL:
I don't think so. As far as I know they are the same or just an inch wider. Right now I have a Ranger rear end which isQuote:
Originally Posted by Hotrod46
58" and I had to put two inch spacers on it to widen it four inches so I could fit rims and tires on it. If the explorer one is an inch wider, that would be good because I can't find an 8 inch rim with enough back set to fit without rubbing the box side. I think I will end up using 7 inch rims.
Really, and crap. I bought the dash speakers from them and didn't think they were too bad. I know I could have bought my own kick panel speakers vs buying theirs but I got lazy. I'll try them and I hope I'm not as fussy as you:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
LMAO! My center speaker is from them too and it started cracking within the first week of driving the truck and I didn't get all punk rock with the volume. Of course that is the worst speaker to change since its an ac truck....
If you end up changing them out I've had good luck with Pyle speakers.hey On my last few builds I've been using their marine speakers and been really happy with them. Also a plus is they are reasonably priced.
Keep in mind I'm an old guy with and my hearing hasn't been great for years. My definition of a good stereo is one I can hear over the exhaust and rattles. :D
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Been kinda slow with the 53 lately and this didn't help. Remember my rear fenders that I had finished up? Well it was a nice day outside today so I opened the garage door to let the sun in and it was shining nice on my rear fenders. I looked over and thought what the crap is that. Turns out that the epoxy that I used to fill up the rivet holes was said not to shrink, but it sure as heck expanded. Two rivet holes showed up like a sore thumb, but at least it was before it was painted. So now I drilled out the rivets and put a stove bolt in instead and welded the head and put a nut on the back. Sorta like a stud now. needless to say, the fenders are no longer finished.
One step forward and two back but now you know that the repair won't show it's ugly head again when the top coat is applied.
Defiantly, this made me crabby, but not near as much as if would have been painted !Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T