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Thread: 1955 Chrysler 331 Hemi build for '34 Plymouth Coupe
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    Did you have to remove some material to fit the main studs, or you're just tru-ing everything up? I've heard some guys say you don't have to line hone/bore or do anything to install main studs and I've heard that it's a must. I wasn't sure if it was personal preference. I myself just figured doing both just ensured a longer lasting engine. Great work and thanks for taking time to post your progress.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  2. #2
    69Bee's Avatar
    69Bee is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Did you have to remove some material to fit the main studs, or you're just tru-ing everything up? I've heard some guys say you don't have to line hone/bore or do anything to install main studs and I've heard that it's a must. I wasn't sure if it was personal preference. I myself just figured doing both just ensured a longer lasting engine. Great work and thanks for taking time to post your progress.
    In my opinion and experience, ALL motors should be align honed, especially if it has never been done. New iron (green iron) will twist and relax (stress relieving), and to re-establish the holes for size, roundness, main tunnel alignment. Back in the day, it was thought to be a race only operation, but it really is necessary to properly re-machine an engine to new condition. Heads also need to be milled for the same reason (twist), and we all know the factory machined all of their blocks with extreme precision. I square the blocks to ensure the decks are parallel to the crank, and 90 degrees from each other. Then you bore the cylinders and they are perpendicular to the decks. This helps equalize piston deck heights is so far as the rods center to center distance being as equal as possible.

    As far as the hemi, even if I was paying someone else to do it, I would still have it done because I understand the importance of why it is done.
    Last edited by 69Bee; 05-05-2016 at 08:21 PM.

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