Thanks for the kind words Ryan! I must admit , I'm a tool fanatic! LOL
Printable View
Thanks for the kind words Ryan! I must admit , I'm a tool fanatic! LOL
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psdf88f3de.jpg[/IMG]
Have the frame set at ride height to finalize drive line angles, and castor.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1c1be386.jpg[/IMG]
The frame has locating plates holding the rear housing on center, and at max
suspension clearance. These brackets allow the housing to be rotated to set
pinion angle. The housing has not been shortened yet.
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0fda01c3.jpg[/IMG]
I made my own brackets for the panhard bar which raises it high enough to keep
4" clearance over the ladder bars, and be level. It has some adjustment for
slight changes when on the road later.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psf29b9c94.jpg[/IMG]
I used 1 1/2" x 3" rec tubing w/3/16" wall.
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6e7fa27f.jpg[/IMG]
I wanted some adjustability on angle, and height for the coil overs. This is
what I came up with.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7be1ae63.jpg[/IMG]
I made the trannie mount remoable. There are 3/8" hvy dty nuts welded into the
frame tubes. The rear housing on the Muncie 4 spd is from a early Nova that
has xtra mounts cast in 2" forward of the standard shifter mounts. This helps
with shifter placement caused by the set back of the engine.
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2f2306b6.jpg[/IMG]
The forward legs of the Double 'K' Member (sounds good!) tie into the wish bone
hangers for additional strength.
I hated to replace the original middle cross member, but engine set back gave me
no choice. It would have been easier to replace the rear cross member with box
tubing also. I don't mind modifying things, but like to retain original parts if
possible. (they have been in the car over 80 years!)
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1cdabcb.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psd0cfff9e.jpg[/IMG]
Most everything tacked into position. That is a 525 GM steering box, which fits a
Vega mount.
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps03377f5e.jpg[/IMG]
Another view.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psa8ea79ab.jpg[/IMG]
Finally everything tacked up. This is a late 70's housing which has 3 1/4" wall
tubes. I had enlarge all the Pete & Jakes brackets to fit, also added more steel
to the ladder bar mounts for more weld area.
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3222ddc.jpg[/IMG]
Back from Mosers with rear complete. They will not guarantee a straight housing unless
they do the welding in their jig. Had new housing ends with sealed bearings installed
which takes different brakes which they have in stock. I had a 8:00 A.M.
appointment, and was on the road again 3 hrs later. I dropped off the center
section for new gears which they sent back 3 days later UPS. Great people
to deal with! (those are new 31 spline axles)
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5c578405.jpg[/IMG]
View of the ladder bar mounts.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4799e7d9.jpg[/IMG]
My 'heavy duty' wishbone mounts!
Rich
Nice bead. Mig or arc?
I think I saw a Lincoln Power MIG 180 on one of the photos, so I'm guessing MIG.
The bung was tig, the chassis weld was mig on the wish bone bracket.
Yes that was mig,(180) most on the chassis was mig some tig. I have a Lincoln 225 precision tig that I love, and
an old Century stick machine that still runs good. I'm a retired pipefitter, so most of my time was spent
stick welding when I was working, but there was always some mig or tig to do. Thanks for following the
thread guy's!
Rich
Rich, you sure are a master fabricator! Great work, it all looks great!
Ryan, thanks for the kind words, but just an amateur! If I charged some one by the hour
I would go broke I'm so slow. LOL We all do this for the love of the hobby anyway.
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9c3a158f.jpg[/IMG]
The long slot is for panhard bar clearance (if needed), I know a lot of people trim
this part of the cross member for cleaner looks, but I feel it adds a lot of
stength to the chassis. I also notched the frame for front spring clearance.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps28debba7.jpg[/IMG]
Everything ground, cleaned, and etch primed.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps39789cbf.jpg[/IMG]
Rich