Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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Originally Posted by rspears

Steve,
Just curious, and it's of no concern at all but wondering why you cut away material to radius the corner, which increased the size of the "infill panel" significantly. More strength to the nicely curved hood line to infill panel, or something else. Again, just curious and always looking to learn.

Thats how willys are mate

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Originally Posted by roadster32

Thats how willys are mate.

Steve,
Like I said, I totally misinterpreted how your filler panel was going to be done, and was visualizing an extension of the hood side to fill the gap vs a body panel to mate up with the hood edge, but that wouldn't allow the hood to swing, so it was a "DUH" moment for me, an I apologize for the interruption. I totally enjoy your innovative approach, and appreciate that you take time to show us your steps.

Originally Posted by rspears

Steve,
Like I said, I totally misinterpreted how your filler panel was going to be done, and was visualizing an extension of the hood side to fill the gap vs a body panel to mate up with the hood edge, but that wouldn't allow the hood to swing, so it was a "DUH" moment for me, an I apologize for the interruption. I totally enjoy your innovative approach, and appreciate that you take time to show us your steps.

No problem Roger, asking questions is good, its how we all learn stuff

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Roger I think part of it is a clearance issue on closing the hood, thus the radius, and the other part is it looked like a real tight gap, before the re-radius cuts. Now wider and more uniform. It's a British thing....Mind the gap!

Looks like I totally misunderstood the "infill panel". I was visualizing it as an extension of the hood to fill the corner, but not considering that it would bind on the upswing, thus the infill panel on the body, and the nicely radiused corner to open cleanly. Sorry for the bother, Steve.

Traced around the template last night onto a bit of 16swg sheet steel welded some mounting studs in place. plug welded them and sanded smooth.












To keep to the rivet theme i filed out the mounting holes in the hood hooks.








I decided rather than just have an edge on the filler piece I would add a return, tacked it up and then welded and smoothed off and a squirt of primer.












Here its back in place, still needs a bit of sanding to even up the gaps but its looking much better.











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Cheers Steve you've accomplished what Willy's should have done in the first place. Your version is stellar compared to theirs!
Maybe this mind the gap is better?

Steve,never get tired of works of art.

Jack.

Originally Posted by stovens

Cheers Steve you've accomplished what Willy's should have done in the first place. Your version is stellar compared to theirs!
Maybe this mind the gap is better?

Steve funnily enough I find that more appealing

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Watch out for that sand.

Great work on that filler piece. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who has half the parts for his project he's working on, in that project at the same time. Have to love trucks!!!

Well now I had the rear fender mounts sorted it was time for the front mounts, wanted to keep it simple so first a piece of 3/4" x 1/16" wall box was cut to fit between the front fender/front panel joint,next a pair of curved 1/8" plates were cut out to follow the curve of the joint, these are held in place by the lower 2 fender bolts each side. 2 mounting plates were welded on to align with the frame horns, this was tacked on the car with a mig and then tigged in the workshop, a couple of gussets were added to make it all light but strong, I sat on the fender and jumped around a bit and they never moved so happy with that.
















The above took up most of the day to complete but I also got time to make a stainless hood prop, The bit of wood I had been using was starting to be annoying so had to go. again nice and simple, a piece of 3/8" stainless box was fitted with tabs and bolted through the hood stiffeners, then a hole was drilled in the front panel, the hole also acts as a drain as the water collects there.









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Steve, until this and your coupe thread I had no Idea how much work went into building a glass body. Do all glass bodys need this much re-work or is this unique to Willys?


Jack.

Originally Posted by Jack F

Steve, until this and your coupe thread I had no Idea how much work went into building a glass body. Do all glass bodys need this much re-work or is this unique to Willys?


Jack.

Not always Jack, the Willys because of the shape suffers more than most, glass when left and not stored level & straight can move about with temp, If they are made with a floor (like a 32 say) it makes them more stable.

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Originally Posted by roadster32

Not always Jack, the Willys because of the shape suffers more than most, glass when left and not stored level & straight can move about with temp, If they are made with a floor (like a 32 say) it makes them more stable.

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Thought I would add to this, a lot of what I'm doing is normally unnecessary , I'm doing it to save future customers having to do it.

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