Your brakes are the same as I'm using on my '37 Oze build. Installation is not difficult, with the good instructions. I have the Explorer cable kit for my Lokar E-brake lever.
Printable View
Your brakes are the same as I'm using on my '37 Oze build. Installation is not difficult, with the good instructions. I have the Explorer cable kit for my Lokar E-brake lever.
Look here for a cool E-brake solution. The device pulls with about 600 lbs of force. The unit mounts to a frame rail under the car and can be adapted to most ebrake cables including Lokar. HR&CS sells quite a few of these and have them in their booth at shows.
hotrodscustomstuff.com | HR&CS Announces E-Stopp
The device also makes a neat anti-theft device, set the ebrake and cut the power via a hidden switch....with the back brakes locked, it is harder to roll the car into a trailer.
Alright. Now that I'm done with travel for work and the Holidays are over, it's time to get back out in the garage. The last thing I did was install the axle seals (into the housing) and bearings on the axles. I noticed when I pressed the retaining rings for the bearings onto the axles, it was twice the thickness of the original. I didn't think too much about it until I tried to mount the axle to the housing. It seems because of the extra material, it rubs on the seal now. I know these bearings are meant to not use the original seal, but I have always ran them just to make sure. I think at this point I think I have to remove the seals in the housing and take the chance. Have any of you ran into this?
In the pictures you can see the witness marks of the ring rubbing on the seal.
Attachment 60216Attachment 60217
It's great to know that the Explorer cable kit will work with these brakes. I was hoping they would, but its good to know for sure. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
Justin
Yup, fairly common with aftermarket axles.... The O-ring will do a good job, just a light coat of grease before the install....
Good, glad to hear that. Seals coming out, axles and brakes going in today. Thanks for the advice, JustinQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Justin I'm late coming into this thread, but what a good thread to write. Title should be buyer beware! I can offer little in the mechanics area, but have had lots of excellent service from Summit for overnight parts(normal cost) and Classic Performance kits and advice from them too! Both are very good with customer service. If you venture into exhaust area, Sanderson is top notch! Keep on posting, I'm learning a ton!
There are narrower retainer rings for the bearings that will clear the seals---
Just recently ran into same issue on a Moser 9 inch Ford setup(everything from them)
Also check for clearance around the axle bolt head on the back side of the axle flange to the retainer bolts of the bearing retainer flange to axle tube-------
Strange has some azle bolts with smaller heads that clear better------
Not a problem, there will be tons more coming. I can't wait until I get to the engine, that's where I really shine.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
One more question. On the rear brake kit, the calipers can face towards the front or the rear of the axle. Same with the parking brake bracket. It would work for me both ways and the images on the internet shows both ways. What way worked best for everybody?
It's good to know someone else had this very issue. I thought about buying a different set of rings, but the seal is already damaged and the bearing stands a chance of getting damaged when I remove the rings that is on there now. If I do end up with a leak, I'll have to replace everything anyways. I'm going to chance it that the seals in the bearings don't leak. Fingers are crossed.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Well after drilling the rotors to fit the studs and running to the hardware store to get the correct hardware, the rear brakes are mocked up for measurement. Everything seems to fit good.
Attachment 60230
Well after a bunch of research, I finally found what ball joint they put into the front control arms. It's a Moog K772 in case anybody in the future needs that info. The application is a late 70's Dodge Aspen upper ball joint. They used the same ball joint in the upper and lower control arm.
When I started dissassembling the front suspension, I was amazed how easy it came apart. I didn't need any tools! EVERYTHING was finger tight, even the ball joints. I knew there wasn't any cotter pins installed in any of the castle nuts, but I never imagined it was like this. After inspecting the tapers in the spindles, I reassembled everything and check all of the hardware on the front end. I should have guessed though since the jam nuts for the tie rods were backed off. Also I noticed the upper bushings on the sway bar links were missing. I guess they were just too hard to put on. Below are the pictures. Also, I'm trying to figure out whay they would weld the front sway bar bushing brackets to the frame. There is a bolt in the front and the rear holding the bracket on, but then they welded it too. Just strange.
Attachment 60240Attachment 60241Attachment 60242
And this was built by a "top notch" big dollar shop??? Really???
And here are the new front brakes mocked up. I just need to measure and order new hoses now.
Attachment 60243
Today I removed the manual rack to start measuring for a power rack. Space is pretty limited down in that area, so this should be fun.
Justin
Yes, pretty scary. I'm pretty sure when it was first built, it was a very nice build. But that was around 14 years ago. It's passed through 5 owners that I can track down, and every one of them added something new. I think it was during that time that these questionable repairs happened. I can't wait to remove the dash to find the PCM for the fuel injection to see what hides behind it. You can see some of the wiring mess for the front lights in the pictures above.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
AHHhh.. that makes sense now.. some of those P.O.'s must've had a hand in this.
Remind me to make a play book of parts and part numbers as I build my truck, will make life easier down the line!
You've got a project for sure. If it has been thru 5 owners in 14years then it was poorly built to start and has gone downhill from there with 'improvements'. These shops put emphasis on 'curb appeal' and the mechanical issues will sort themselves out.
Good thing it is in your hands, i can tell you'll get it right.
Be careful about getting what you wish for removing the dash, i bet there'll be serious rigging behind there, out of sight. Have your camera ready when you do, ok?
I always do.Quote:
Originally Posted by ojh
Stovens. I always do a spread sheet with lots of pictures. It helps add up all of the costs in the end, not that anyone likes to usually see them. LOL.
Still searching for the "right" accessory drive package. I've been in contact with 3 manufactures, but I'm starting to lose hope for a off the shelf kit. Maybe that's why whoever pieced this last kit together did what they did. My budget for the accessories is around 2K. (adding PS) The space is pretty tight, but shouldn't be impossible. Trying to find something that mounts the A/C and alt above the valve covers to clear the fenders. P/S can stay in the factory location. I'm just trying to keep from firing up the CNC for this should be simple solution. Back to measuring.
Justin
Have you talked to Brad at Rocky Hinge? I bought their system for the SBF, and they are great to work with - a small, family run company that cranks out a wide range of quality parts and helps you walk through any problems that you might have as you go through the installation. Link here to the SBC system, which I assume you're running? - Quality At Affordable Prices They also have an alternate arrangement that puts the alt/ac REALLY high, which likely won't work for you, and looks a little funky, too - Alt.Air Brackets & Pulley Kits
My guess regarding the sway bar brackets is insufficient threading in the frame. Someone may have just drilled and tapped the thin frame material. Internal nut plates are needed. Threading the frame works for small brackets for hoses and tubes, but not much else.
You can get nuts that are round and can be welded into an oversize hole.
No I have not, but I will. Everything they make looks great. Thanks for the link.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I haven't thought much about this after I posted the picture, but now I'm curious. I haven't decided if I'm going to be out in the garage this weekend, but if I am I have some grinding to do. LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
Dave, you seriously think someone's going to drill & tap a nominal 1/8" thick frame rail for a bolt of that size carrying that kind of load? I expect it's a 7/16 14, or maybe even 1/2 13 which would yield less than two threads for a high stress load of a sway bar? I guess I can't say they didn't do it, but if the original builder tapped a frame rail for that service I'd question every nut & bolt on the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
At this point, I am. If this was my car, it would be ripped down to the bare frame and reassembled again. I told the owner that I would have it done by Spring, so that's the only thing stopping me. I'm a very detailed oriented guy, so it's hard for me to look at rusty control arms and just leave them. I know what this car could be, but the owner just wants a driver. I respect that, but I'm still checking every bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Justin
Yes, I do think that it's possible that someone tapped the frame. It's just a thought. Nothing to get excited about. There's certainly no reason to weld the mounting bracket to the frame. If some fool would do that, they'd tap the frame too.
Just a little update. I will be ordering the front dress kit from Rocky Hinge, they seem to offer a great product. I'm still trying to figure out what power rack to go with, but that should be easy. In the mean time, I've been working on another Hot Rod. It needs a bunch of body work, I don't like the color it came, the axles are a touch rough and the wheels are plain. This one my 10 year old daughter will be doing alot of the work, but it'll come out great. Below is the start of the project.
Attachment 60296
Ahhh the pine wood derby! Go all out! This is for the dads and grand dads as much as the kids!
Be sure to google the derby kits, if you want the fancy axles etc, that seem to give certain individuals a huge advantage!
This is the first year that they are letting Girl Scouts participate, so this should be fun. I'm running in the parents class too! Rules are pretty strict in both classes, so no special axles. You have to use the axles in the kit, but there is alot you can do with the axles to make them better. Below is the 3D model of her car. Hopefully we can cut it on the CNC tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Attachment 60301
Cool! Gonna create a lot of "tool envy" among the Dads with that!! When you call Rocky Hinge tell Brad that Roger in Gardner, KS says hello. He'll walk you through any questions, and be sure that what you're ordering is right, or at least he did for me. A great guy, and he's the engineer that does all of their detailed design.
A few dads have already asked me to help them with theirs. Maybe I'll have a few over with their kids and spend a day teaching them, it's not too hard. I've been keeping my daughter involved with every step and so far she is understanding the 3D aspect of the car. She has used my machine to create a few signs for her teachers, but nothing like this.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I'll tell Brad you said hi. I'll be talking the them on Mon, I still have a few questions. Thanks again!
I order the pulley kit today from Rocky Hinge. Roger, I told Rocky to tell Brad that you said Hi. Brad was busy in the shop. Rocky seemed like a great guy and knew for sure that his kit would fit between the fenders. They already have a few kits in C2C cars, this made me feel so much better. I also opted for their PS fluid reservoir, it should fit nicely.
Thanks again Roger for the heads up, Justin
Pinewood;It's great fun,I helped my son way back in time build a Pinewood in the late 1970's,he ended up winning both cub[he was one]and webalow<spell?the class above his too at County meet,for over all.:D:cool: And yes he polished the nails and rounded shaped the tires so they road on a small edge near the body that was all OK to do than,don't know about now?,he played with it so much before the races,the nail holes war out,so we had to make a slot and glue in small brass tube in the body block and bang the nails into it,to hole them in place,he had sanded long and hard to get his teardrop body shape and painted and polished it very nice<was really aero. Someone saw the the tubes glued to the bottom and bitched a storm about it being a bearing or bushing,but after I explaned ,no that could only be called at best a sleve becuses it dose not move and nether dose the nails/axle move,so it meets the fine rules as they are . Was great fun,but a few of the other Dad's were all bent out of shape when it was ruled AOK,there not engineers or gearheads so have little to no real understanding of what a bushing or bearing is by def. and actuly really mad they didn't do the same,as more then a few cars had the wheels fall off in the races.:eek:
It is a great project for the kids and the parents. Our rules are pretty tough, just to keep thing fair far all of the kids. One of the dads already warned me because they know me. I don't know if that's good or bad. Either way, they will be keeping a eye on both of our cars. I had to order a few new bits for the CNC, but as soon as they arrive, we will be cutting the shapes out.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bat
I got a suprise today, the front dress kit. I ordered it on Mon and got it today, that was fast!. Everything looks great, no complaints.
Attachment 60330
Bling bling!! Lookin' good there!
Bling and $$$$$$$'s should really make the engine POP!
Actually it's one of the most economical front drive packages out there, and when you add up the individual component prices (compressor, alternator, PS pump, water pump, pulleys) the bracket is not that expensive, and it integrates the whole package and looks sweet, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
I have to agree. Plus when you compare the components with the other manufactures, this kit has the bigger alternator (140 amp), polished w/p, polished p/s pump ect standard. That stuff is optional on the other more expensive brands.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
