Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree27Likes

Thread: 39 Ford (Coast to Coast) Rebuild
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 10 of 10 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Results 136 to 149 of 149
  1. #136
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,624

    Thanks for the updates.. I guess it ain't a hot rod if you don't run it out of gas at least once!

    Interesting observation on the sealing surface. I'll be curious if your solution doesn't solve the problem!

  2. #137
    autotec's Avatar
    autotec is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Allis
    Posts
    86

    And after all of the milling and careful assembly, it still leaks. I have never ran into a leak that I couldn't fix. The only thing I can come up with is there has to be a hairline crack in the casting that I can't see. This is driving me nuts. Maybe it's time to spend the cash on a "NEW" rack.

    PS leak 2.jpgPS leak.jpg

  3. #138
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,624

    Well... that stinks.

  4. #139
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

    show some pics of the housing that show the bottom end of the hole------------that's where the sealing is--------

  5. #140
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,778

    Here is a terrible suggestion, but if it works.......
    Put Some Lucus Stops Leaks Power Steering Fluid in there and see if the oozing stops, or if a thick gel appears in one spot. My wife's daily driver was leaking from the rack. Big bill to replace, vs. add a little Lucus to it. I read about 250 praises for this stuff. And we have had no leakes in 6 months, not to mention She puts at least 1000 miles a month on the car! (I know not the best way to handle it, but it has been a permanent solution to two leaking systems on two separate vehicles for us now.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  6. #141
    autotec's Avatar
    autotec is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Allis
    Posts
    86

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    show some pics of the housing that show the bottom end of the hole------------that's where the sealing is--------
    The fittings that worked the best so far are sealing on the top of the rack. They use a aluminum washer and a o-ring. So you are saying the the sealing surface is inside of the bore, not the top of the rack? I'll pull the rack again and take some pictures of the bore and type of fittings I have.

  7. #142
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

    I'm not saying that the rack that you have is that way--however the pics you posted had some paper stuffed into the holes so we can't see, but many seal with an o-ring inside a smooth portion of the hole past the bottom of the threads-------------

  8. #143
    autotec's Avatar
    autotec is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Allis
    Posts
    86

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    I'm not saying that the rack that you have is that way--however the pics you posted had some paper stuffed into the holes so we can't see, but many seal with an o-ring inside a smooth portion of the hole past the bottom of the threads-------------
    Rack is almost out, just waiting for the fluid to drain. As soon as it's out, I'll snap a few pics. Thanks for the quick reply.

  9. #144
    autotec's Avatar
    autotec is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Allis
    Posts
    86

    While the fluid drains, here are the 2 type of fittings that's I've tried. I've tried multiple manufactures of each along with different types of seals. It always seeps out around the pressure fitting while the car sits. Doesn't leak any more while the car is running, that has me confused. You would think it would leak more when there is pressure behind it.

    Fittings.JPG

  10. #145
    autotec's Avatar
    autotec is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Allis
    Posts
    86

    After looking at the bores inside of the rack, there are smooth surfaces inside at the bottom of the bores. The problem is the smaller hole where the extended portion of the fitting on the right, in the picture above, is .017 inches undersized. I'm going to try to open that hole up so the fitting on the right goes all of the way down and can seal on the o-ring. Wish me luck. Below are the pictures of the rack.

    Hole 1.JPGHole 3.JPG

  11. #146
    daveS53 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Loveland
    Posts
    427

    If the O-rings aren't going into the bore at the bottom, you'll never get a seal. The O-ring type worked for my flaming river rack, but it's brand new. An O-ring bore has to be smaller than the O-ring O.D. or it will not seal. Enlarging such a bore would be a tough job to do properly, without taking the rack out and putting it on a Bridgeport or similar small mill.

    You'd better research the proper interference fit before any machining is done.

  12. #147
    autotec's Avatar
    autotec is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Allis
    Posts
    86

    Quote Originally Posted by daveS53 View Post
    If the O-rings aren't going into the bore at the bottom, you'll never get a seal. The O-ring type worked for my flaming river rack, but it's brand new. An O-ring bore has to be smaller than the O-ring O.D. or it will not seal. Enlarging such a bore would be a tough job to do properly, without taking the rack out and putting it on a Bridgeport or similar small mill.

    You'd better research the proper interference fit before any machining is done.
    As I write this, the car has been on the road for about 2 weeks. (with no leaks) I'm going by memory now, so forgive my guesses when it come to the measurements. The fittings I used to finally seal the power steering were from a Dodge Omni rack. But I had to enlarge the bore below the threads by .010. Even then, it was a tight fit. I guess it's the price you pay when you use a Chevy pump, a Ford rack and Dodge fittings. No leaks, power assist seems good, does not seem over boosted, and like I said, no leaks. I'm happy. My wife drove it and approved.

    When I finally got the leak fixed, I finally got to the tuning portion on the FI. After 13 hrs, it finally runs good. It took digging a old Windows XP laptop out of the closet, but I got it figured out. It seems Holley stopped upgrading the software for the Commander 950 PCM years ago. No more lean back fires or surging, it just goes.

    From there it went up to my friends exhaust shop to fix the exhaust. The proper flanges were put on for the headers and I bent the proper pipes to fit the Super 10 series mufflers. It sounds good, exhaust doesn't hit the frame and doesn't leak. To me, that is a success.

    I brought it home, charged the A/C, took it for a quick ride and the owners wife drove it away. I haven't seen it since. I wish I had some pictures, but towards the end it was a rush.

    I will see the car back probably in the Fall, right now the owners wife is driving it everyday. It still needs a few things, but it's safe right now. It's not up to my standards, but you can't argue with the wife.

    Like I said in the past. To make it right, the body needs to come off to fix a bunch of problems. To me, it's still a mess. But compared to how it was, it probably drives like a new car.

    To make everyone happy, here is a video of my wife and daughter in the car. Thanks again for all of the advice. I'll be back soon.

    http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/au...d50f5.mp4.html
    Last edited by autotec; 06-24-2014 at 09:14 PM.
    randyr likes this.

  13. #148
    autotec's Avatar
    autotec is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Allis
    Posts
    86

    I just wanted to add, without all of the advice I received from the people on this forum, this car would still be sitting up on jack-stands. After my wife drove the car, she wants me to build a rod for us. So expect a new build coming soon.....
    34_40, stovens and The Bat like this.

  14. #149
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,624

    Heck, you did all the heavy lifting! We just sat back and watched !

    It looks and sounds great! Can't wait to see the next one you put together!

Reply To Thread
Page 10 of 10 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink