Thread: '37 Oze build

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Dave,
I too had to cut the mounting plate and re drill the holes further back for my TH400. What size of stall do you have and what hp does your engine make? TCI is telling me to use a 3400 stall for my 375 hp engine. That sounds a bit large for me...I'm thinking around 2400.

What are you cam specs? Duration @ .050?

Comp cam #12-212-2. duration @ 0.50 lilt = 230

Comp cam #12-212-2. Duration @ 0.50 lift = 230.

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Removed by author.

Maybe it is an illusion, but it looks like the upper arm is upside down.....the ball joint mount is angled down instead of up relative to the arm.

Comp Cam 12-212-2 230 duration

I have that same cam in my 383 and run a 2400 stall converter in a 700R4 transmisison. The combination works great.

Originally Posted by hammer-time

Comp Cam 12-212-2 230 duration

This is what Comp Cams is telling you: For '58-'98 262-400 cid Small Block Engines w/ Flat Tappet Cam - Great For Street Machines • Needs 2500+ Stall, Headers & Gears • Rough Idle

Originally Posted by rumrumm

I have that same cam in my 383 and run a 2400 stall converter in a 700R4 transmisison. The combination works great.

Lynn,

Might the lower 1st gear in your 700R4 vice his TH400 make a little difference, and require a bit higher stall - particularly off the line?

It seems like the mounts for the ball joints should be angled to match the angle of the stud mounts on the spindle (about 7 degrees)?

Dave, I was thinking the same thing. I looked at old photos of the M-II suspension on my long-gone '30 A-Bone Sedan. At ride height, the ball-joint studs are almost perfectly perpendicular to the A-arms. Also, my upper A-arms slant upwards from frame to wheel.

What spindles did OZE use? With the apparent vertical distance between the balljoint bosses compared to the vertical distance between the upper and lower frame mounts, I can't see how this will ever work.

Is it possible that the design of that system is FUBAR?

If he is running a 350 rather than a 383, a little more stall might be in order given how the difference in cubic inches will affect idle characteristics. But I don't think anything over 3000 would be necessary.

Dave----its time that you need to realize that your upper/inner frame mount is TOTALY wrong---------there isn't any reason to keep polishing the turd and you need to clean the entire mount from the frame and start anew ( a new ) the upper arms should angle up/out toward the ball joint and when you get that corrected you'll have more down travel-also don't follow the scheme that a longer shock will give you more suspension travel-it won't-you need a shorter shock to let you have a less restriction to travel of your arms-------the day will never come that a guy can build one of these and fit all the fairy tails of internet and get a suspension that works




If and when you redo the upper a arm mounts you can correct your caster/camber /wheelbase issues and also fab a shock upper mount that lets you use a shock/spring combo that is at travel midpoint at ride ht.

Sorry guys, but we've been beating the same dead horse for more than two years - '37 Oze build This is the guy who cut pieces out of the front A-arm mounting structure to adjust wheelbase and caster! At this point Jerry is right, it's time to cut the entire front suspension off and start from scratch, doing it right.

Dave, IMO you'd be much better off hauling the car in to a good shop and letting them install a new IFS from scratch, then have them align the chassis, setting the rear square to the newly installed front suspension with consideration for wheelbase to center the rear wheels in your wheelwells.

Dave Severson told me to back away from this one, and I tried but now I'm gone.

Dave, I just looked at my suspension on my wildrod, looks similar to yours but no extreme ball joint angle on the top a arm? It appears by the pic that your spindle mounting ear for the top a arm is heavily angled resulting in the extreme angle on the ball joint?? Here is the pic of my front suspension, now these are dropped apindles that I replaced with standard height spindles but nothing has changed on angles except here its mocked up and the alignment is done now. I am wondering about the spindles, you might not have as much issue as you think.....maybe the parts are wrong. Also check that you don't have standard length lower a-arms with 5/8" narrower uppers resulting in a cock eyed match, you may need 5/8" narrower lowers (I did) If you have any questions call a reputable shop like Lakeshore fabrications at (573) 875-1500 and ask him he as makes custom a arms as well as many for others kits ex. Speedway. give your center line to ball joint dimension on the custom uppers, heck send him a pic and he will tell you the problem, great guy.
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