Thread: '37 Oze build

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mustang hyd booster

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Dave, My suggestion is call wilwood, keep in mind Wilwoods are racing brakes and not all of the race cars they go on even use a booster. My friend that was a Wildrod distributor very rarely used a booster on the rods (with wilwoods) as he said he couldn't tell the difference when a small diameter booster was used and when it wasn't and braking was great, I am not saying they will say not to use one but I have wilwoods on my '32 and a 7" power booster and I reassure you the booster isn't boosting much (sucking small amount of vacuum above the blower) and the thing stops on a dime, I did have Wilwoods tech guy recommend my mc and he nailed it, when all else is in question call the manufacturer, you can't go wrong. The only reason I used a booster on my '32 after talking with them was I had it already and I thought you had too at the time as everyone else had one right?? Matthyj

use the set up off the Mustangs--------not as big around as vacume busters and about the same length overall plas maybe an inch or so----there is pic of setup on 32 coupe in my gallery

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I wish I had mounted my wiring panel in the trunk. Under the dash is way too crowded in a '34 coupe with A/C. I should have utilized my 30+ years of civilian and military facility planning more carefully in my build.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I wish I had mounted my wiring panel in the trunk. Under the dash is way too crowded in a '34 coupe with A/C. I should have utilized my 30+ years of civilian and military facility planning more carefully in my build.

I wish you would have too, Jack, because your car was my screen saver at the office for six months before I retired, and if you'd have done it different I'd have done it, too! I'm blaming you for the fact that my fuse block is up too high, and my bank of relays is even higher!!

Originally Posted by rspears

I wish you would have too, Jack, because your car was my screen saver at the office for six months before I retired, and if you'd have done it different I'd have done it, too! I'm blaming you for the fact that my fuse block is up too high, and my bank of relays is even higher!!

Might as well. I know you already blame me for pointing you to a quality supplier of fiberglass rollers who also believes in integrity and customer service.

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Originally Posted by daveS53

I seem to do a lot of things twice. The first way works, but isn't ideal, so I change it to work better. No wonder it takes me so long to get some things done. I'm working on my third iteration of the brake booster/master cylinder. Since Wilwood recommended a minimum 8" dual diaphragm booster and it's the largest that will fit, I'm going one step further and trying a 7/8" master cylinder that will give me about the same pressure boost as a 9" vacuum booster. I can't imagine that the braking will be more sensitive than either of my new cars.

Dave, I just bought and installed a 7/8" Wilwood 260-9439-BK master cylinder to replace a Corvette style unit in my '34 that had a 1-1/8" bore. It bolted right in. I didn't have to change a single thing except to toss my actuator rod and connect directly to the Wilwood unit. I also dumped the Ford Explorer disc brakes on the back for a set of Wilwood 140-11389's.

I'm having a bit of a problem installing the rear disc brakes because I'm seeing some runout, and can't figure out why it's happening.

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Dave, regarding the GM fuse panel.... I also used the GM panel that came with the 480hp LS crate motor. We have a CCI electric fan that is controlled by the fuse panel. We lost the fan power and I discovered that the 50 amp fuse feeding the fan had melted. Looking at CCI's fan spec, they say that the fan draws 65 amps at startup.....you might check your fan specs. TO fix it, we use the relay on the GM fuse block to power the coil of a larger capacity relay....one that will take the 65 amp draw.
Mike