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Thanks for the comments guys. Well, that's about enough of the practice pieces, time to finish the rest of the bends. Just to make sure we don't need any "tweaking", I'll cut a profile sample out of the center. This spot weld one the inner flange is far enough away so I won't need to grind out a spot weld, and still have enough of that flange for a good measurement. In other words, removed with minimal effort where it still holds it's shape accurately.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture152-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture153-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture154-2.jpg
Our profile template:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture155-2.jpg
Just to compare to our test sample, looks like the inner flange was bent down a bit much in the manual hammering, will have to ease up a bit...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture157-2.jpg
Outside profile looks good enough to leave alone!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture158-2.jpg
Following the measurement used on the test sample, the panel is run through the bead roller's tipping wheel nice and slow to give us an initial mark for the bend, then repeated to tip the flange downward...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture159-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture160-2.jpg
This looks about all we'll get without distorting and pulling, so then it's off to the custom anvil...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture162-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture163-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture164-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture165-2.jpg
Then for some manual tipping...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture168-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture169-2.jpg
...and comparing to our profile sample......
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture172-2.jpg
Ready to cut off the old next time...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture174-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture175-2.jpg
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Nice work as always, Robert! I especially like your use of scratchbuilt fab tools and templates, should inspire others to try some fab work on their own and not just give up when they can't find what they need at their favorite 1-800-Hot-Rods mail order place!!!!!
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Ingenious! Amazing! Fascinating! I love reading your posts.. I learn details that I've admittedly, just never thought of before!
So thanks for making the time to share!!
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Ditto Mike's comment. Thanks for taking time to post such detailed info on how you're working the metal. It's an education every time you post!
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Love the way ya do that stuff,I know I'd just weld a tab on,but some day some one may wounder if that was a stock part vs my way they'd know it wasn't,great work
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Thanks for the comments guys, hopefully some of the processes shown will help someone to tackle some metalwork of their own.
Last night I worked to finish up the pad details on the inner structure of the lift gate.... The center one was wider, so I used the same phenolic and just added a wider detail to the opposite side. I missed showing this earlier, but a handy-dandy battery saw works well to remove the bulk of the material, sawing parallel cuts and then just working the saw side to side to clear out the remaining....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture235-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture236-1.jpg
Once cut out, the sanding disc is used to cut down the angled sides and touch up the bottom..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture237-1.jpg
This compares the two, showing the difference in width...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture238-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture239-1.jpg
Alignment marks transposed from the original, and guide marks indicate the area in need of hammering...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture242-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture243-1.jpg
I had a request to show the hammering procedure, so here's another video attempt. The first one is using the phenolic anvil clamped against the work piece in the vise, the second uses 1" square stock as an anvil to clean up the hammer marks a bit...
Video232.mp4 Video by rmccartney | Photobucket
Video233.mp4 Video by rmccartney | Photobucket
...also sounds like I have a loose hammer handle, something for another day.... ;)
Then the sanding disc was used for final cleanup. Here's the finished piece, just needs a couple holes drilled....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture245-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture246-1.jpg
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Wow, such great work! I really like the modification you did to the vice grips to make the lip puller/spreader. Thanks for sharing this stuff! I'd really like to gather a collection of metal working tools like you have. Very nice!
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Thanks!
Finishing up the welding of the inner bottom panel....used a 3/16 hole for the plug welds this time. I normally use a letter A, but the flange here is a bit narrow, so a smaller hole it is. To make up for it the heat on the welder was cranked up a bit to insure a good weld.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture265-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture266-1.jpg
Looking at the back side, these should hold well.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture267-1.jpg
All the plug welds done, then on to the corner seams.....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture272.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture273.jpg
and after cleaning up the welds.....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture275-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture277-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture278-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture279-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture280-1.jpg
Then we'll clean up the plug welds on the flange, media blast the inside for good paint adhesion and some epoxy primer before closing it up..
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Wow mate, that is beautiful work you are doing, very impressive and encouraging. I noticed you don't use a zinc weld thru primer on the surfaces to be welded before assembly, is there a reason why you don't as I would of thought after all the work you put into manufacturing replacement panels you would want to take that extra precaution against the rusty nuts setting in again.
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Thanks for the question. I am more of a proponent of epoxy over using weld through primers.. I typically will use epoxy between panels where weld through may be an option, and use a modified bit to clean out the plug weld hole:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture314.jpg
This is the same size drill bit I used for plug weld holes that has been flattened and backfaced with a roloc sanding disc to resemble an end mill cutter.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture315.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture316.jpg
This shows how it works, cleans the paint from the metal surface, but having a flat face on the cutter, it doesn't affect the metal as a regular drill bit would. Notice most of the "chips" are paint....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture318.jpg
And welded......
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture321.jpg
Where this pinch weld seam you referred to will be on top and less prone to water intrusion, it will be painted and sealed inside the cavity prior to welding the outside panel on. Where the lower seam will be more prone to water intrusion and rust, it will get some epoxy primer between the two panels prior to welding using the method shown in these last few pics....
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Good process and very little burn off when welding leaving a better seal between panel . I do it too .
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