55 Wagon Progress

Finishing up on the English wheel, the legs are bolted on with 1/2" bolts with nuts welded inside the riser.





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20017.jpg





The wheel is held on with 3/4 bolts, with nuts welded inside the top plate of the riser.





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20019.jpg





The John Deere lift device....





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20022.jpg





The wheel is set up at 48-1/2"





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20023.jpg





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20024.jpg





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20025.jpg





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20026.jpg





We wheeled a couple scrap panels, crushed some tucks, tipped a panel. Very pleased with the new wheeling machine.

A little disappointed in you for not cleaning and painting the base to match????? LOL...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

A little disappointed in you for not cleaning and painting the base to match????? LOL...

---

From Post #795,

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MP&C

More to come..... need to find a nice bright color that will have Peter in sunglasses for his next visit..

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

From Post #795,

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MP&C

Finishing up on the English wheel, the legs are bolted on with 1/2" bolts with nuts welded inside the riser.

---

Post #796 kinda makes it sound like it's done????
But I'm not critiquing, just saying,
WHERE'S THE PAINT..... (said like the old lady from the old wendy's commercials)

C'mon guys, that's better known as patina! We have some pieces to get made upon the wheel, and it will be a while before we prime again. So it will be left like shown for a bit until we can sneak it in the booth with some other stuff for epoxy priming..

Slacker!!!!!!!!! Lol..

Y'all keep it up you're gonna give him a complex: and those legs will get chromed with gold pin stripes.

Chrome? Now there's an idea....


Rec'd a care package in the mail the other day. I guess the sample of polyurethane was a hint for me to try this as well :LOL: Thanks Rich!


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1128.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1129.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1130.jpg

I would love to have you try it, although I doubt there is much you haven't done with metal! That's just a little
thank you for all the great info that you post for every one.

That sample is the piece that was used to press design, I do one letter area at a time.

Thank's again, Rich

Well I'm back from UK, Kyle is still plugging away on stainless polishing and repairs..


Here's just a few of the implements used. And I must stress, this is not an 18 ga panel, with stainless trim we use light taps for everything.


Here's a piece of Delrin that was cut out and filed to match the bottom side of the door trim to act as a soft "anvil".


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204379.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204380.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204381.jpg


Then a spoon is used to bump.... LIGHTLY


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204383.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204382.jpg


Many ways of bringing up low spots, here are just a couple of the tools used...

This is a roller tool used for installing the "beading" to hold in screen material. The roller has been flattened from the original version, which had a hollow in the middle. A 3" roloc sander held just right will get the wheel spinning while sanding it flat..


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204384.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204385.jpg


In many cases you'll bump the highs down, roll the lows out, and check your progress using the fluorescent light tube reflections, and repeat. It is not likely this is a one and done process.



Another tool that can sneak in behind flanges.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204386.jpg



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204387.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204388.jpg


Also used some dry sanding with the durablock, here using 500 then 1200 paper.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204389.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204390.jpg


Then followed with the Trizact 1500, then 3000. Then it should be ready for the buffer..


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204378.jpg

Eeesh. Don't catch the edge or corner, or you're back to the bumping block.

My hat's off to ya, that is some tedious, time consuming detail work!

Thanks! Sorry for the hiatus, the day job had me travelling, two weeks in UK and two weeks in HI. Got back this past Sunday.

Tuesday afternoon we loaded up the wagon and dropped it off for media blasting.. should pick it up this weekend.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204391.jpg


Tonight I worked on getting the Go Kart Slick hub fabricated for the wheeling machine..


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20026.jpg


I had stopped at a local machine shop and picked up a 3-1/2" diameter slug left over from their water jet. After some cleanup work on the South Bend, and a clearance hole for the 35mm upper shaft on the wheeling machine...


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204393.jpg


I had found this roller bearing (35mm ID) on ebay, as well as this thrust bearing...


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204394.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204392.jpg


Getting close...


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204397.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204398.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204400.jpg


Bearing installed....


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204404.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204408.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204409.jpg


With slick held in place, the alignment looks pretty good...


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204402.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204403.jpg


Motion picture version....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwVhZzGkBCE


Still need to drill and tap the three lug holes and install the outer thrust bearing.. and then we can get working on the re-skinning of the glove box door..

very cool. Envious of your part making skills!

Dang.. it musta been hard hanging the chevy from the ceiling!:eek:**):D

What will the slick do when complete?? And please don't say form metal! :rolleyes::p:)

The slick makes the wheeling machine into more of a slip roll. Two hard wheels will add some stretch, where the panel will show crown in both directions. (lengthwise, sideways) Using the slick, and the lower die pushing up into it (as it's only partially inflated) the panel as it goes through assumes the radius of the lower anvil (sideways direction) and remains all but flat lengthwise. Think nice long rocker panel.....