I'm confident you'll take the path of greater resistance. Put on some good boots with stiff soles. It makes it easier to get up the rocks.
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I'm confident you'll take the path of greater resistance. Put on some good boots with stiff soles. It makes it easier to get up the rocks.
Thinking about it, the ears under the U-bolts will reduce the friction patch between the U-bolts and the axle to about 50%. I don't think it would necessarily cause a problem, but I think I'd trim the ears and use a pair of plug welds for the bracket.Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
I agree with Mr.Spears, don't go under the U-Bolts..
Yesterday we took delivery on an 8' piece of pipe, 4-1/2" OD with 1/2" wall thickness. Will come in handy as the column for the pedestal planishing hammer build..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204128.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204129.jpg
A bit more clearancing for the header tube. Perhaps this fine tuning will also add a few HP...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204131.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204132.jpg
Didn't show too much detail on the Explorer brake install last week, so let's see if we can do better today.. The "kit" was designed for the big bearing rear housing with the Torino ends. As luck would have it, the Lincoln Versailles used a big bearing early style, so we'll need to align and enlarge some holes..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204134.jpg
Bolted in place using two opposite holes and the included metric bolts, we used the axle bearing as an alignment tool for the backing plates..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204135.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204136.jpg
Then used a right angle drill for better access in drilling the holes..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204137.jpg
This worked for all but one hole that was directly in line with the axle pad.. So we had ordered some shorty 1/2" bits, and still had to take another inch off the length and step the diameter for the drill chuck.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204138.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204139.jpg
Backed into a corner? No problem!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204140.jpg
And here's our final version on the brake hose anchor bracket, by popular demand!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204141.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204144.jpg
Then this will get epoxy primed along with the other bare brake parts and we'll just touch up the plug welds after welding in place..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204145.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204146.jpg
I'm very curious as to how well your brakes will work, especially the rears ?
What MC are you planning on using ?
I'll dig up the info and get back to you...
Still haven't gotten the master cylinder dug out, should get it this weekend..
With the new brake parts all prepped for paint, and the owner not too keen on blue Monroe shocks (I told her it was Ford blue just to instigate), time for some more Epoxy this evening..
Meanwhile Kyle worked on repairing the cross piece for my brother in law's press that we tore up the other night. seems the "peg" hanging down didn't have room for the long axle under, so I put it next to it. We cracked the weld around the peg and pushed it in pretty good. So to make sure he'd let us use it again, we got some replacement parts...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204147.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204148.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204158.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204160.jpg
The brake anchor brackets had been spread apart and a quick coat of SPI sprayed on the inside, then clamped closed with NNVG for the remaining spray session.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204155.jpg
Quite the clamping conglomeration...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204152.jpg
....and the rest of the parts...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204149.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204150.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204154.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204156.jpg
After the shocks first coat of epoxy had flashed, they got two coats of the silver Imron...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204157.jpg
More impeccable work, I love it!
Rich
NNVG... gotta love it!
I agree with Rich.. impeccable is the word that fits best.
Thanks Guys!
Well soon after the 35 Chevy returned from GNRS, Cody had it blown apart again to tackle more items on the to-do list.. One of them being inner fenders, which he had asked if we would punch some louvers in those as well. He hand fabricated these parts, seen here:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...nerFender1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...nerFender2.jpg
He had quite a bit of work in these and had suggested shipping them down, but we aren't that far apart so I suggested meeting in the middle to pass off the parts rather than trust them to shipping. So we guessed on Parole, MD as being close to a good midpoint, and picked the Double TT Diner to grab some breakfast and catch up on his trip to Pomona. Kyle and I arrived and had made about one lap through the parking lot when Cody pulled in, so this worked to be a good halfway point between Southern MD and Milford DE.
Here's what we picked up....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204174.jpg
This has a tighter radius than what we had done for the hood sides, so for the punch to better follow the contour, or sit perpendicular to the point of punch, we plan on a rotational fixture attached to the linear slide that the "trough" of the inner fender can be rolled from side to side.. More on that to come..
On the way home from Parole, we made a stop to look at an old fire truck that was slated for a total restoration. We did a quick survey of the truck and made some recommendations to the owner.. While we were there, also stumbled across another 35 Chevy. These 35's are coming out of the woodwork it seems..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204180.jpg
Back in the shop, getting ready to re-assemble the rear. Test fitting the rear axle bearings, as the brake kit had come with some .250 thick spacers...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204161.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204162.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204163.jpg
My vernier depth gauge showed that the actual distance was .203, so some trimming was in order...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204164.jpg
With all the parts now test fitted, we took the rebuilt press parts back and gave them a trial run...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204179.jpg
With the press back in business, the only thing left to do there is to add it in the mix the next time we spray some epoxy, and I generously offered some of the leftover orange from the trailer wheel painting, but my brother-in-law seems a bit apprehensive.
Brake line brackets were removed from the paint stand, and this is the first time I noticed these Vise Grips had a Gene Winfield fade paint job on them..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204165.jpg
Brackets were plug welded to the housing, welds scuffed and touched up with some SPI epoxy..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204166.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204170.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204172.jpg
Newly painted shocks were reinstalled, and rear brake parts all installed..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204173.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204175.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204176.jpg
A bit closer....
Question.. Why the hose between the bracket and the caliper? There won't be any movement there will there?? Would think the hose should be between the hard line and the bracket...
To allow for caliper movement, especially when rotor starts to wear..
The Mini Cooper wheel bearing/hub assembly had come in yesterday (looks like this)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204186.jpg
....so the first order of business was to void the warranty. Made a trip over to David's shop to make sure the press was still operational, and pressed the hub out of the bearing. We need a flat surface for the new material clamps, so Kyle worked on the lathe to get rid of the excess metal here:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204188.jpg
He got this far tonight...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204181.jpg
These are the new clamps we'll be using, the single 8mm bolt will connect it to the flange Kyle it working on..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204187.jpg
Meanwhile, I cut out the plate to hold the bearing...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204183.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204184.jpg
The top will be folded 90* and that flange bolted to the top of the glide blocks here...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204185.jpg
Once complete this should allow us to rotate the inner fenders as we punch the louvers. Oh, and finally, looking at the bare spot in the floor here....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204182.jpg
The English Wheel has left the building. It is headed to a Porsche restoration shop on Eastern shore, should be putting out some 356 parts soon..
With the wheel hub faced, the flange is trimmed...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204189.jpg
The attachment bracket....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204191.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204192.jpg
Pressed back together...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204193.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204194.jpg
"test run" videos:
https://youtu.be/zsDe02QEmyo
https://youtu.be/1JB4kHLbjQc
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204195.jpg
Material clamps should be here tomorrow, so we'll try and get some louvers punched next week.
HMmmmmm.. I gotta see this one!