LOL I predict fasteners bouncing off the floor around the buffing wheel!!
Printable View
The buffing wheel will take something out of your hand in a split second. You really need your wits about you when that gets switched on. And yes, one of the bolts did bounce off the floor. :LOL:
Last bit of progress, we got the hinges painted so hopefully we can get the tailgate installed this weekend...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5917.JPG
installing more shiny stuff....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5967.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5966.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5968.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5970.JPG
We had not pre-drill the holes for the partial spear on the doors when we installed new door skins, so here we mask off the bottom of the door and drill SLOWLY to prevent heat buildup.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5973.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5972.JPG
Then the fresh holes are touched up with two coats of epoxy primer. Once dry the spears are added..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_5978.JPG
And our dash clock showed up so we can get that hole filled as well
While assembling the door bits, we noticed that the retaining clip for the reproduction lock cylinders did not match the originals, which would leave us with a gaping hole in the back side of the inner door.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6046.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6033.JPG
So we had media blasted the originals and sent to the Shop at Shorty's for a cerakote finish of gun metal grey. As my luck would have it, the door skins we had installed had some accuracy issues in the lock hole locations.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6035.JPG
Aligning the clip to the lock hole would result in a slight misalignment out back... and you know Robert's not having that.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6037.JPG
With Cerakote still fresh, some trimming was done so we could use the original clips to fill the hole void, and the new ones would be used to hold the lock cylinder in place as well as the original clip, whose new job has been reduced to filling a slotted opening. Some window sealant will slow any movement of the pretend clip.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6042.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6039.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6040.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6043.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6044.JPG
And the same effort repeated for the driver's side. Where it wasn't as far off as the other side, our mods were still required.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6052.JPG
Mandatory Kramer photo bomb
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6053.JPG
Adding the pull rod for the door lock....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6056.JPG
and the addition of a rubber grommet will help keep rattles down.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6057.JPG
Jared applied some Kilmat inside the tailgate and we added more bling..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6054.JPG
And we've had a casualty with the Baileigh magnetic brake. The magnet stopped working and some troubleshooting found an open with the coil. Some inspection of the supply wires found an over heat issue. Removing all the epoxy showed it's been warm for awhile....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6025.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6026.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6027.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6028.JPG
So it looks like we'll be in search of replacement parts.
Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
More progress, we were test fitting the power antenna an noticed that the mounting bezel did not sit horizontally on the fender. I had quickly whipped up a wedge shaped and tapered spacer out of some aluminum as a quick test.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6058.JPG
Where that was functional, it did not match the chrome finish of the bezel. I picked up a chunk of 1" stainless rod (local drop cut) to make a duplicate out of stainless. The wedge shape was added first, using the 12" disc sander... then clamped in the Southbend for the taper cut and a hole boring.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6148.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6153.JPG
....and trimmed off to length
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6154.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6156.JPG
In order to hold this oddball shape for polishing, some rivnuts were used on a 1/2-13 bolt, with the wedge angle added to one for a more positive hold..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6158.JPG
Completed, this matches the chrome finish of the bezel much better...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6159.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6161.JPG
Since we were ready to re-install the front fenders, I thought I'd grab pictures of our fine-tuning adjustment screws for the fender to door alignment. The hex bolt shown on the right is filling an existing hole that used to have a rubber plug in it. I guess having pulled out the dried and cracked old rubber plug, I wanted a more permanent solution. We were going to use that hole but it did not align with the rib on the fender's rear brace. So another hole was drilled next to it, a 3/8-16 AVK style rivet nut installed, and a fully threaded bolt added. The bolt head was covered with a rubber cap and the inside end of the bolt had a slot added for adjustment purposes. Now we could use a screwdriver to adjust the screw outward, pushing the center of the fender until it aligns to the door surface.. A jam nut on the inside tightens against the rivnut to prevent any movement.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6176.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6177.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6184.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6178.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6183.JPG
And with our upper fender mounts painted, they get installed using polished button head hardware and our barely noticeable shims we had fabricated.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6186.JPG
In the tooling department, we needed a tight radius reverse bend on some .090 aluminum, so a Gene Winfield inspired 1-1/4" round stock was added to our 4" pipe. This was bolted straight into tapped holes and used two stacked flat washers to provide the gap. The aluminum was 5052 alloy and was annealed prior to bending.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6095.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6097.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6096.JPG
Great attention to the little details, beautiful work.
More progress on the wagon. While reassembling the front end, Jared noticed the fenders were a bit high at the cowl. This next picture shows it, although the perspective makes it a bit exaggerated.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6186.JPG
So we pulled each of our new shims we had made and shaved another 1/16" off the height.
This shows the fender height after adjusting the shim height.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6237.JPG
But shows our next back up and punt moment. The wedge shim we had made for the antenna was too steep, and this shows the actual angle needed. So we made another with less angle...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6238.JPG
Note some "pre-polishing" was done on the lathe prior to cutting off the wedge to make things a bit easier. Final version installed and vertical orientation verified...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6286.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6289.JPG
Next, we got the driver's door wiring routed through the upper door hinge... much easier after the trial-and-error practice we did on the passenger side.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6292.JPG
...and with the front fenders back on to stay, Jared reassembled some of the core support parts.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6290.JPG
Moving to the rear of the car, we started the rear tail-light install now that they have been painted inside and out. Wiring was routed through OEM style boots to help minimize any water intrusion into the lamp sockets. Replacement button contacts were used in the sockets (w-crimp) to eliminate any unneeded splicing of the wiring. Wiring complete, with bulb seal attached to the housing:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6295.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6296.JPG
Rivet-nuts were installed for mounting the housing....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6297.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6298.JPG
Nice snug fit to the body, and a functional test to make sure we're done here..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6300.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6299.JPG
Moving to the passenger side, we'd need to secure the harness to the tail-light swing arm mechanism (part of the hidden gas door mod) so we planned to add some heli-coils in the arm for adel clamps. I had a long 1/8" bit to get in close to the corner, but our final size of 13/64 for the 10-32 heli-coil tap would be another issue.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6307.JPG
Then I noticed some tubing in the scrap pile that had a 3/16 ID, just undersized. So our drill bit was clamped in the 3 jaw chuck of the lathe, and the tail stock used to press the two together.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6302.JPG
Now we had an extended bit to complete the heli-coil installation.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6306.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6308.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6309.JPG
...and a functional test of the wiring on the arm...
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JzA6W2BdyyQ
Wagon 2.0 progress, I was tasked with adding a paint job to this:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6190.jpg
but had a couple of issues to address first prior to paint. The dropped axle design lacked lateral strength of an I-beam, so we ordered some 1/8 x 1/2 flat bar to cap the top and bottom, adding much needed strength. Next, the frame hoop was produced with limited tooling availability, and the corners made use of pie-cuts that some still remained and would show through the paint. I attempted to weld some of these closed, but realized it would be quicker to remake the hoop.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6193.JPG
Always one to make tools into multiple use, the new tubing corners were bent on our buffer stand "radius brake"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oyTLqpeXSk
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6203.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6206.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6208.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...psmLydbWcF.JPG
The rear "axle" stanchions had been bolted on using rivnuts, but I was worried the side wall of the tubing may deflect from weight in the wagon. So in true Robert overbuilding form, some threaded standoffs were turned into a sleeve that would weld on both sides of the tubing for less stress upset.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6244.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6245.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6247.JPG
Both ends were ground flush prior to welding..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6248.JPG
Welding the front end to the new frame hoop...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6252.JPG
Next, to clean up the front end components a bit in order to add oilite bushings...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6253.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6256.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6257.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...BHjfT2JCFT.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...aU2jWY2uRQ.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6262.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6267.JPG
With spindle perches welded to the ends of our "I-beam" front end... a test fit of all the bits..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6268.JPG
And here with our center link added, the last fabrication detail needed will be the handle.. to be continued...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eE6G7vHhYmc
The only thing I haven't seen you do is a 24K gold electroplate kit.
I suspect you have one though.
:LOL: Not used to working with precious metals. Just rusty steel..
You're the best. Love your stuff.
Thanks!!!!!!
That's funny, paint the wagon turns into completely build it from scratch. It's not easy being a perfectionist!
OCD is a powerful drug..
What are 3 words you never hear Robert say?? "It's good enough....." ;)
:LOL: ....but I'm trying....
Here's the hidden fuel door in action, and why we needed the helicoils for adel clamps to hold the wiring in place....and away from moving parts.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UwCy8mKRJFU
The back end is starting to look like a car again...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6366.JPG
....and more work on the other wagon, here's the start of the pull handle...
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/a-8Nmkh_bmQ
A functional test of the steering bits...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGSptHK1WBc
For the pull handle, we had tried out some knurling on aluminum to see if we liked that....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6346.JPG
But this would have required more hardware, and the aluminum handle was over-ruled for simplicity of a welded steel tube. Here we formed the handle's hoop, and some side "extensions" were added so we could have a consistent shoulder around the "steering column" for fillet weld.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6368.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6370.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6371.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...GEjxt3UBcF.JPG
And some shots in da weeds... may have clearance issues
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...Ttav9RohUZ.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...oAJuW7qBma.JPG
Some additional parts for painting, we had media blasted the door latch and tailgate latch pull rods, as well as the end clips. The rods didn't have much option for securing for paint, so we opted for some rare earth magnets screwed to the paint stand. We'd paint one side, let it flash, rotate 180*, and spray the other side. That's our plan...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6430.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6433.JPG
Jared had made a hoop holder for the end clips so they wouldn't get lost in the media blast cabinet, and it looked like a good holder for painting as well.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6434.JPG
We also needed to paint the steering column, so it was disassembled and media blasted to prep for epoxy primer.. To support the column on the paint stand some eyebolts were fabricated to fit the 1/4-28 threads.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6437.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6438.JPG
I missed getting pics after primer, so we'll get those next time..
Progress for our other wagon, the bead detail at the bottom of the wagon pan has some flat spots (defects) from the factory. As we will be spraying kandy paint, those spots need to be corrected so they won't be visible.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6419.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6418.JPG
So we made a set of dies for the Lennox to be able to give a consistent bead around the entire perimeter..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6420.JPG
https://youtu.be/5sTsOj_Bqd8
much better:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6425.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6426.JPG
more to come...
Your leaving no detail overlooked, very nice! Do you have a time frame of when it will be finished? It looks like your in the tunnel, but I'm not sure if you see the light yet :)
I can see the light, just hoping it isn't a train.
A few months back we had received some newly polished stainless spears (side trim) for the 55 wagon. Part of the payment was to fabricate a "factory delete" plate for the spare tire well of a 55 chevy in gasser form. He wanted to mimic the factory X pattern that is located along the centerline of the trunk. We recently got this done, and with as-installed pictures received, it seems a good time to post this as well. We had tried a sample using the bead roller, and also had made a die set for the Lennox that would produce both sides at once. Neither worked well at all. I didn't care for the bead roller version much at all since we would be relying on self guiding and the possibility of line deviation. So we opted for a set of offset dies that I had for the Lennox, and producing each side individually. The Lennox works well because the linear slide lets us clamp the part and produce multiple parallel embossings with good accuracy.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6335.JPG
A corking tool made from delrin was used to dress up the ends
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6338.JPG
As primed by the owner... Yes, that is Wisconsin farmland.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1248.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1249.JPG
Installed...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1257.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1256.JPG
So there you have it, a rare OEM spare tire delete plate.
Wow the details just keep on coming on this project! You guys do an amazing job!
The boss lady had picked up a vintage three-shelved stand a while back, and we had been tripping over the parts in the media blast cabinet.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...6xG4EnZer7.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...aV2NNuErFy.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_4173.JPG
After media blasting they were sent off to The Shop at Shorty's for a powder coat finish. He had some pastel green in stock so we went with that. Here's the preview picture he sent:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...ZrN3tf6T41.JPG
We will get the parts picked up this week. We already ordered new stainless hardware in slotted screws and square nuts for the assembly. Next, the casters seemed in good condition but needed a refinish as well. So the OEM rivets were drilled out so the metal housing could get a Cerakote treatment in gun metal grey. In order to reassemble without rivets we made some faux rivets that will make use of 1/4-20 threads and sleeve retainer loctite to keep things together.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6531.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...ZBvUDQJKKs.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...Ww36C71AFu.JPG
A tap handle in the vise was used to clamp the "rivet" while it was threaded..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...2UrJg55rJ1.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...PA7JfqDiSn.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6546.JPG
The nuts were rounded as well, leaving just enough flat for assembly, to mimic the rounded head rivet as well. Threads trimmed to size and the parts were then polished.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6547.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6534.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6533.JPG
We picked up the powder coated parts from The Shop at Shorty's, for reassembly we had ordered some replacement slotted oval head screws and square nuts in stainless so we could polish them up a bit for a bit of bling.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...ZrN3tf6T41.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8yrgGog6Lz.JPG
And no job is complete without undergoing the close scrutiny of the quality control inspector...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6590.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...hHcqLAhN1Z.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...hoMJocgkp6.JPG
Steering column one step closer to green paint...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6461.JPG
and blocked to 500 grit...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6500.JPG
Working on removing dings and refining scratches on the windshield trim in prep for polishing. These pieces are less receptive to using the DA due to all the creases, so we've resorted to wet/dry paper up to 2500 and then polish.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...RMxVSUcLao.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...4U2DQvE2Rr.JPG
Jared getting the hang of this stainless work....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...S4TiUREUyp.JPG
For the other wagon, we went with a powder coat chrome finish to dress up that front dropped axle.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...K57pXppNeC.JPG
And this is the second round of three coats of epoxy and blocking. Think this will be the last round, and then on to some silver base and blue kandy..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...fA9f55j4WA.JPG
More work on the wagons. Jared and I continuing to repair some stainless trim. I was asked about our process, so here's a bit more detailed approach. But understand we are complete novices at this, so take any of this with a grain of salt.
To start, some light scuffing in line with 1500 grit helps to highlight any rock dings in the windshield trim..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...RMxVSUcLao.JPG
Once any defects are identified, they are LIGHTLY tapped outward from the back side to bring the defect outward where it can be removed. Then 400 grit is used to remove the defect (and by default some of the adjacent material). So we want the defect to be pronounced outward, but not too much. Better to tap it outward in repeated steps than to go too far and create a stretch. I missed getting a picture before we started on this "rock chip"; this was after a few passes with 400 on the 3M board (just above arrow).. It was tapped outward about 4 different times until we got it where the defect was sanded out.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...qnMezs6hEd.JPG
Back side that was tapped....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8AzLJbxdUG.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...t2bjkpEkaK.JPG
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/BdSQMh6MOTU
After removing all the dings, the surface was sanded working progressively through grits 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and then on to 3000 and 5000 trizact discs on the DA. Afterwards it was polished out on the buffer...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...zgMrdM7Q8H.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...3St1Ca2kXP.JPG
Some parts painted green so we can continue with more assembly...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6631.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...xAYZPRTc32.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...dSSfJE4ovJ.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...FJzpL4FMVx.JPG
When we had mocked up the wagon frame we just had a 1/2” bolt stuck through the bottom of the pull handle. Now that we’ve got the frame back from chrome powder coating, it’s time for some final details. The bolt for the bottom of the pull handle needs to be an Allen bolt to match our kingpins, and we need one from each side to be symmetrical. A little late to thread any holes in the pivot piece, so we’ll go with docking hardware. A 1/2-13 bolt was turned down for 1/4-20 threads, and the opposite one drilled and tapped.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...ggmdow4hVE.JPG
An allen wrench in the vise holds the bolt for threading
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...n3VLCnoLuY.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...6RvF3Psegx.JPG
Bolt for the opposite side...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...j57aaviMa2.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...dyNdZ1WCtP.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...VwHdR574zn.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...tnEanFLYWL.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...K6s6UGa63r.JPG
Frame is all done but trimming the axles, now to finish blocking the epoxy on the tub.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6657.JPG
What a cool idea for the pull handle bolt! I can almost hear the guy at a show talking to his buddy, "Yeah, he put a threaded plug in the middle of the handle, spot welded it in place and sanded it smooth...." It would almost be worth carrying a pair of Allen wrenches to pop that bolt out once in a while just to see the reaction!Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
The work displayed in this thread never ceases to amaze me. Simply awesome craftsmanship. Carry on.
Gorgeous green paint, your thought process and machining are amazing. The little detail that makes it all so dam nice !
Absolutely amazing work! The wagon turned out sweet! Everything you do is though. :LOL:
Thanks for the comments fellas!!!
Still block sanding the wagon tub.. Back to our stainless trim, we need to modify the upper door trim to hold our peep mirrors. We opted for the old school look of the peep mirrors but did not want to use the clamp on paint chippers. The front edge of the trim uses a machine screw through the door and into a nut plate. Our plans are to use a formed hole in the trim and use the hole in the door to attach the mirrors.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...ZWRUyhUmsi.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MAkGeHjUwa.JPG
As we had used the tail stock of the South Bend before with success, we made some press dies to match the mirror's stepped end and provide a flange in the holes for added strength.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...1nMLX7EYEU.JPG
https://youtu.be/sFO7CYYbC9U
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6718.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6719.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6720.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6721.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6722.JPG
Trial test of the mirror, yellow rag hung outside the rear window for a more visible reflection
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6724.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6725.JPG
Some more fabrication work for the day job, we had a door seal that was being abraded by a non-skid strip on the threshold, and wanted to drop it down some as well for better clearance. So a new threshold was made from 16 Gauge #4 brushed stainless. Where the old used countersunk holes for the #8 screws, we opted for the more correct version of dimpled holes. Provides more contact area for better seated hardware.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...12qr6b4xWD.JPG
Dies were made for the dimpling process, they used a 1/4" shank just pushed into a drilled hole in some bar stock vs. welding together. This will allow quick changeout for other sizes/shapes of dies for use in the press brake.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...GqB2j9nDrn.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6740.JPG
https://youtu.be/FafzVr8eTPM
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...dRB2KkRW1c.JPG
Next, to gain a bit more clearance for the door seal, the new threshold was located and the protrusions of the rubber flooring were scored with a utility knife at the threshold edge. Next, we used a multi-tool to shave down these protrusions that would be beneath the threshold. This wasn't much, but better than what was there before.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...X6bnbk78hw.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...hF1J97xnaT.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6755.JPG
Back on wagon duty, we've been continuing on stainless polishing. We had been doing some of the shorter sections by sanding on top of my 4 wheel shop stool as it has a nice flat top surface.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MjcGCbYTpj.JPG
Once we got to the longer sections of trim, this became too cumbersome, so some 1/2" MDF was repurposed as a "holding fixture" while we refined the damaged scratches and dings. A Black Diamond longboard was used with 500 grit PSA paper to highlight any low spots, high spots, or other carnage. Then some LIGHT DUTY metal bumping to address the issues and a repeat of the highlighting sanding. Once all the defects were addressed, we then worked progressively through 600, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500 w/d paper. Then 3000 and 5000 Trizact, and finally on to the buffer.
https://youtu.be/THKxgvIdVZw
A modification of our "fixture" to hold the curved end of the trim...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6761.JPG
https://youtu.be/N5cgoFXjCDk
https://youtube.com/shorts/tViITsStf_A?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/zYWU_zc4q1w?feature=share
Jared helps out here to help stabilize the skinny trim and keep it from flopping around. Once quick mis-step at this point is about an hour minimum of recovery.
https://youtu.be/Q0h6FuKog44
Nice reflection of the door opener in the ceiling after buffing...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...utvphsHctj.JPG
trim clips added...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...5HRWhjnfmg.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6781.JPG
...and our driver's mirror added...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...njAc117h3Q.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...NQ7tsJHr86.JPG
Fantastic solutions as usual!
I never used to start at a low grit and sand all the way up to 2k or 3-4k, but what a difference it makes when you do it. Great work and can I send mine to you? :LOL:
Ryan, I can't finish what I've got now... :LOL:
Friday night was paint night. We started with a coat of SPI epoxy thinned for sealing, then two coats of Galaxy gray shimrin basecoat, then 4 coats of Cobalt Blue Kandy, and two coats of SPI universal clear.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6807.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...eghSaF7ufg.JPG
First coat of Kandy:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...kMdoKXkSnq.JPG
It was loosely assembled Saturday morning and carried into the sunlight for pictures. The low morning sun was not enough to wake up the metallic in the basecoat, and this looks jet black.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...HHt85js544.JPG
A bit later, it’s starting to wake up the blue….
https://youtu.be/SeT3ykEg_wA
After wagon assembly and photo op, we did some more Stainless scratch refinement... Two long pieces left to go. and one on order. Dana had taken one somewhere for straightening, and the results left us with a wrinkle and a crack forming. So that one's replacement is on the way from The Stainless Shoppe.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...DnRjiVWZAd.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6673.JPG
Jared putting the eagle eye on the remaining stainless to find any defects...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...boZkijZUB7.JPG
Reassembling the steering column after painting...
some heat shrink was added to the harness to help prevent abrading against the steering shaft. Our steering wheel puller kit did not have the needed parts for compressing the spring for the ts cam/horn ring, so we made a push ring and modified some 5/16 bolts for the cause. Much cheaper than grinding on the snap on parts.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6831.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6830.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...LnAhY5QZaw.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...GC3QKmys4m.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...FsRLb6T281.JPG
Sunday morning we loaded up the wagon for it's maiden voyage, a shakedown run at Eddie's Brunch and Car Show, located at Bailey's Olde Breton Inn. This isn't a real large show (although it grows every year) but it's one of those must attends, and all the proceeds benefit our local Hospice.
Some takeaways on the wagon design, the pull handle length that was designed for a small child inside the wagon was too short for a 6' tall fella with a long stride. Felt like yap dogs at my heels… And I think the frame design may need air bags, where it did well on the pavement, there was quite a bit of drag (rolling resistance) with the grass up in the frame.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6979.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6980.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6982.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6983.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6976.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6977.jpg
*Car show pictures borrowed from FB
The wagon is GREAT! Looking forward to the details of the trailer for the compressor setup for the air bags, and the telescoping pull handle!!
Those wheels just don't cut it on that slammed wagon, it at least needs some baby moons. Maybe machine some up with some stainless and polish them?
Everything is looking great! Will they even want to put anything in the wagon? I wouldn't want to. It's too sweet! :LOL:
Jesse Harris, a metalshaper local to me, did a recent video on using the TIG for performing spot welds. He was kind enough to send me the video so we could share it with others...
https://youtu.be/JRBcLeRjN3Q
.
More installing stainless trim. The screw holes for the beltline trim that wraps into the tailgate opening had been filled when we shaved the lead seams. So we used some tape to protect the paint as we aligned the side trim to the lift gate trim before drilling the holes.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...jPpH5xUZnN.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...DzeZsL3fpR.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7020.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7087.JPG
One piece to go on the left side, awaiting the trip from WI.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7088.JPG
Next, we attempted to install our vent windows in the "reconditioned" frames the owner had bought. Only we noticed they weren't so ready for installation...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...Gy1Zso9hQt.JPG
and bent...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...JcK6Kh5fhN.JPG
Well, since we're on a roll, lets check the stainless trim that divides the vent and side windows. This had been "reconditioned" and included with the bent and cracked vent frame. Looks like they just polished up the dents and scratches. Not going to meet our standards.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToR2iF0sNeQ
So we media blasted the original frames, which had no damage, and dropped them off at the Shop at Shorty's for a Cerakote finish.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7108.JPG
Inspecting the stainless trim, we found the originals to be less beat up than the reconditioned stuff, so we opted to straighten out the originals. Here's a comparison of the trim, the two on the left are the reconditioned that had been polished right over the defects. The two on the right are the originals, the left of the two has had any dings/dents pushed from the back in prep for our refinement process. (except the one up top I missed) The right one has gone through our w/d 360, 600, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500, all done wet. There are some minor scratches still, so we'll go through this process once more prior to buffing to make sure we have a flawless finish.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIQcvWRF9nU
And a helpful hint for those who dabble in polishing stainless. We've all had occasion where the stainless slips off the buffing wheel, bouncing off the buffer shaft, causing another 2-3 hours to correct. We added a rubber grommet to cover the nut and a plastic end cap to cover the threads. Less chance of damage from those mis-steps.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...bkY8ekoPS1.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...RfPAKar4Xq.JPG
We did get some more chrome on the front. Look, no bolts!!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...ihjnKRu6CE.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...TXswnAV1TG.JPG