Thread: 51 Moredoor

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Originally Posted by falconvan

That's cool; did you have to do any reprogramming?

No. The only changes I made to the engine was to add the Explorer 5.0 intake, which has about the same flow numbers as the Cobra GT40 intake and a set of JBA shorty headers. The computer adjusts itself to those and everything else is stock Mustang.

There's a long drawn out thread of my process here complete with a few stupid mistakes....lol! But it all turned out great in the end and I love the swap!!
Engine Swap - '92 5.0EFI/AOD into '66 Ford F100....

Really nice work, Randy! Looks like a fun truck to cruise around in.

Found this interesting; I was checking the specs on both cars today:

1949 Plymouth P18 Business Coupe--GVW 2983lbs
1994 Taurus SHO Sedan with auto trans--GVW 3503lbs

Who would have thought the old 49 would be 500lbs lighter?

Originally Posted by falconvan

Found this interesting; I was checking the specs on both cars today:

1949 Plymouth P18 Business Coupe--GVW 2983lbs
1994 Taurus SHO Sedan with auto trans--GVW 3503lbs

Who would have thought the old 49 would be 500lbs lighter?

The old Taurus SHO ran pretty good. Should run even better with 500 less lbs!

I was surprised my truck is about the same weight as the Mustang, too.
'92 Mustang GT convert - 3350lbs
66 Ford F100 shortbed styleside - 3210lbs



Falcon, did you keep the computer, harness, etc from the Taurus?

That surprises me, would have figured it was the other way around. Just means you'll get better gas mileage.

That one didn't surprise me, with the additional safety requirements cars have been getting heavier about every 5 or 6 years, I was amazed when I saw some of the listed weights for the late model "Pony Cars".. more like clydesdales now!!

Wow, now I never would have thought that a 60's truck would be lighter than a Mustang. Pretty far out. Yeah, I kept the computer and harness. Im still tossing around two ideas; either using a Megasquirt or use the stock computer. There's a company that makes an interface for the Ford EEC called a Tweecer that allows you to reprogram them with a laptop. I've been talking to both companies but still haven't made up my mind.

I finished up the welding on the tank and as a precaution I put a coat of All-Metal body filler over the welded areas. Also here is the Taurus fuel pump/level control assembly; I fitted it with a new Carter pump and replaced the stock level control with the one for the aftermarket gauges that are in the car.

Tank should work out good, Falcon.

Does the Megasquirt offer the same tune with the lap top feature, or is it one that tunes with it's own control box instead of a laptop??? I don't know a heck of a lot about the electronics stuff, but I'd think if they both will do what you want done, the one with the most tune-up possibilities would seem to be better????

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Tank should work out good, Falcon.

Does the Megasquirt offer the same tune with the lap top feature, or is it one that tunes with it's own control box instead of a laptop??? I don't know a heck of a lot about the electronics stuff, but I'd think if they both will do what you want done, the one with the most tune-up possibilities would seem to be better????

Im with you, Dave. this FI stuff is fairly new to me. Megasquirt does have the laptop tuning, too. I talked to a guy from the rat rods rule site and he said the problem he had with Megasquirt was that it took a lot of trial and error to get his baseline maps set up right. Essencially it comes with no programming; you build it, download the generic programming from their site, and start tuning from there. He said getting the car to run right for both hot and cold outside temps was challenging but once he got it, it seemed to do pretty well.

With the Tweecer you use the Ford programming and tweak it to your specs such as removing emissions parameters or disabling nusaince codes that you would get from changes during the retrofit.

It looks like they are both around the same price. Im leaning toward the Tweecer as it sounds like something a beginner could get a grasp on easier.

Originally Posted by falconvan

Essencially it comes with no programming; you build it, download the generic programming from their site, and start tuning from there. He said getting the car to run right for both hot and cold outside temps was challenging but once he got it, it seemed to do pretty well.

Falcon,
Not sure exactly how the Megasquirt program works for human interface, but on mine there are two 3D maps, one for fuel and one for spark, with both graphed against MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and RPM. Spark is simply entered by the timing value you want at each MAP/RPM point. On the fuel there is a base "Fuel Constant" which is set based on your injector size, and the values that you map on the graph are adjustments or bias values to that "constant". I go from the 3D graph view to "Show Values" and it shifts to a table of numbers where I can tweak the map. The other piece of information you need to adjust your fuel map is a digital Fuel/Air indicator display driven by a wide band O2 sensor.
The key is to build your base spark map first, then leave it alone while you work on fuel with the engine warm and a buddy watching the O2 values. Easy, part throttle driving to get your cruise mixture set for F/A around high 13's to mid-high 14's. Then a few more aggressive accelerations watching the O2, looking for high 12's to ensure no detonation. Once you have your fuel map done with fairly smooth transitions (no sharp peaks or valleys) on the 3D display it should be doing pretty good.
For everything else mine has correction curves that affect the base maps, fuel vs air temp for density of charge, acceleration vs coolant to bias more transition fuel when cold (accelerator pump), fuel vs coolant (choke), and one of the hardest to get perfect, crank fuel vs coolant temperature which controls the amount of injection during crank. That last one has been a bear for me to get just right, but then I like for the engine to fire within a few revolutions no matter if it's cool, warm or blistering hot. It's fairly flat at temps below freezing and above 240F, but a pretty steep ramp between them and getting the numbers right for those knee points is fun. Once you see the way the data is displayed for the Megasquirt, and how they handle adjustments for coolant and air temperature it's pretty straight forward to see how the different curves relate to one another, and it all starts making sense. Sorry if I'm preaching to the choir here.

Thanks a bunch, Roger. You're not preaching to the choir, you're preaching to the ignorant. I can see this is going to be a real adventure to learn this stuff but I guess there's no other way than to dive into it. Stay tuned for lots of questions once I get to that point!

A buddy of mine and I were discussing the use of V6s in builds and does it make sense to do all the work over using a V8 when even a bone stock V8 makes a lot more power. The original 218 in the 49 was rated at 97hp and 170ft/lb. The 3.2 im using is rated at 230hp and 215ft/lb stock, and I think with headers and a free flowing exhaust, losing the power steering pump and A/C compressor, plus tuning I would think I could make it into the 250-275 hp range without too much trouble. On a car that's 500 lbs lighter than the Taurus, I'd think that would feel pretty respectable.

So just for fun I picked two arbitrary years of 1990 and 2005; comparing the base V8 specs offered in the trucks in 1990 to the base V6 specs offered in 2005. The idea was to see how far technology had taken us in 15 years and to look at a basic late model boneyard V6 as a swap option compared to picking up an older V8 for a few hundred bux. I figure for about $500 you could get either; a decent running older small block or a decent later model V6. Of course there are lots of convincing arguments to go either way but I thought it would be interesting info to look at.

1990 Truck V8 engine specs
Chevy Ford Mopar
Displacement 305 302 318
Horsepower 170 185 170
Torque 270 270 260

2005 Truck V6 engine specs
Chevy Ford Mopar
Displacement 4.3 4.2 3.7
Horsepower 195 202 215
Torque 260 260 235

Got the tank finished and mounted today. Im not real happy with the way the filler came out; it's sticking out too far but I'll address that later. I cut a section out of the trunk floor and will raise that section a few inches to give me clearance for the sending unit, fuel lines and wiring.

I also bought a Wilwood MC for the clutch with a remote mount resevior. I built a bracket for it and have it mounted to original clutch pedal after putting a longer pin in the pedal arm and reversing the direction that the pin went in. Looks like it'll work; I threaded the pushrod, cut it in half, and put it back together with a coupling nut to give me about 1 1/2" adjustment on the rod.

One advantage to that extra long gas filler......you'll be less likely to dribble gas down the side of the car......

Just teasin'! I'm sure you'll make it look perfect!

Originally Posted by randyr

One advantage to that extra long gas filler......you'll be less likely to dribble gas down the side of the car......

Just teasin'! I'm sure you'll make it look perfect!

Hah! Yeah,it looks goofy. Probably some spacers should take care of it.