Thread: Headache Heirloom - 28 Hupmobile Century 6, Model A

Tweet

Originally Posted by OSK

so are you gunna tuck the exhaust up between the drivetrain n frame rails or go over the rail and do some dumps?

I plan on running em between the rails, no lakeside headers. Possibly running em under the rails and down under the running boards depending on what room I have to work with.

I built a crossmember for the motor mounts and transmission mount:

Nice job; looks really stout.

Looks like it's built to take some abuse! Beefy is better sometimes!

Mounted the master cylinder on the firewall. I moved it to the far left as possible to allow room for the ECM and or battery box, as well as the air filter assembly. Next was to bend up the brake pedal to clear the steering column, and find the ideal spot for comfort.

Steering column was from an 89 Lincoln. It tilts at the wheel. I didnt want all the extra switches/controls as well as the column shift so after studying the column it seemed like a good idea to strip it down to bare basics. I removed the steering lock, ignition switch, column shift, and wiper controls. I now only have the turn signal switch, with high beam control and hazard button while also retaining the tilt of the wheel. The inner contol rod that links up to the steering linkage is tellescopic which makes adjusting to the right length easy to accomplish. I mounted the steering column much like the original, and kept the serial number badge in its original location. Plans are to find an old steering wheel that looks more period correct.

I was given a 40's era Ford steering wheel today. I was hoping for an easy install being Im using a ford column, but no such luck. The 40's wheel has a key way, my column has a squared tapered shaft.

I decided to cut the center out of the lincoln wheel, and install it in the ford wheel.
Center cut from Lincoln wheel:

On the left is the ford's keyed steering wheel center that I removed using a hole saw, on the right is the lincolns that I reused:

Pic of the Ford wheel with center removed:

Rear of the steering wheel, new hub welded in:

Front of wheel, a little more weld:

The ford wheel had the horn wire ran thru the center of the column. The lincoln uses a copper slip ring with contacts. I trimmed down the slip ring, drilled a hole in the back of the ford wheel, and installed the slip ring so the horn button would work. Rear of ford wheel with slip ring attached:

I still have to build a dress ring for the rear of the column to hide the wire plug, but I think it will clean up nicely. Side view of the column:

Column tilted down:

Column tilted up:

Very nice adaptation work there! Like the jump in and make something work approach.

Big Tracks, I know what you mean about cutting up vintage cars, I do think its better than having them rust away in a field like so many do. And it seems as a street rod they are usually worth more than in a stock condition unless they are a perfect specimen. Its amazing you can buy almost perfect condition good running model T's for under 10K,
CL, That Hup is going to be a really cool "Gangsta" ride. You could prolly raise the frame off the rear axle 2 or 3 inches to center the wheel in the fender and not have to notch the rame hardly any.

Chick,
Looking at your brake pedal. Question- Have you tried standing on the brakes like one would do in an emergency situation? The reason I ask is you make some severe bends/angles to get the pedal around the steering column. Maybe it is the picture. It looks like you would be better off coming around the column on the left side. Making for a more vertical/stronger brake pedal.

Hey chicken legs, I dont see the motor cycle in ant of the pictures. i believe we met at the jasper car show. i talked with you and your wife. i had the blue lowered 36 chevy at the show. Jonathan

Originally Posted by TomJ

Big Tracks, I know what you mean about cutting up vintage cars, I do think its better than having them rust away in a field like so many do.

Yeah, Tom, that really bugs me sometimes.

A couple of instances come to mind. A guy I worked with a few years back bought an absolutely beautiful '32 Ford coupe from the original owner's estate, then he did what? He sold the fenders, bumpers, hood, grill, seats, and other stuff. Then he cut about a 12" lengthwise section out of the body and raced it at the old original "Devil's Bowl" dirt track near Dallas.

I was really griped at him about that up until he died in the car. It was kind of hard to be mad at him after that. Bill Rogers was his name if you happen to remember him.

But on the other hand, the father of a girl I worked with at the same company (Braniff) decided to modify a car that I thought "messin' with" should be a crime punishable by death. a '48 Lincoln Continental. I can't tell you how fine that car turned out! Subtle changes to the roof line, the spare tire mount, wheel openings, interior ..... heck. I don't recall what else, but it was just beautiful.

That said, I think Chicken Legs project is great. He is keeping, and adding to, the car's original elegance while turning it into a very drivable showpiece.

Say, Tom, you have a join date of April 2001?

WOW! Does that mean you have seniority over Uncle Bob?

Where you been?

Jim

Originally Posted by MRTS33

Chick,
Looking at your brake pedal. Question- Have you tried standing on the brakes like one would do in an emergency situation? The reason I ask is you make some severe bends/angles to get the pedal around the steering column. Maybe it is the picture. It looks like you would be better off coming around the column on the left side. Making for a more vertical/stronger brake pedal.

Thanks for your concern, but to answer your question, yes Ive stood on the pedal, and it doesnt seem to flex. I braced in the top of the pedal mount accordingly, and the pedal is of 1/2 steel. Keep the feedback, comin.