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Thread: 49 More-door build
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    Whiplash23T's Avatar
    Whiplash23T is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '23 Ford T Roadster
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    Hey mate you gotta leave the puke green on the outside of the body as that is part of it's appeal. Very nice work Falcon and yeah, the twin carbs and dress up gear can happen late as you use this girl for cruisen.
    I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.

    Isaiah 48: 17,18.

    Mark.

  2. #47
    falconvan's Avatar
    falconvan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Plymouth, 48,54 Heap
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    Thanks guys! Dont worry, I plan on keeping the green for now. Of course if I ever turn it into a two door roadster.............

  3. #48
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    JeffB2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1954 Ford Customline 5.0 & AOD
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    Here is a link you might want to take a look at: Manifolds by Moose

  4. #49
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    The dash and frame look really really good. The old Plum won't know how to act with all that niceness you are putting on it.

    Don

  5. #50
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    Thanks, Don; I can only handle so much "beater" in my beater. I need a little shine here and there.

    That's a cool link, Jeff. I might take a look at one of those down the road.

  6. #51
    falconvan's Avatar
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    I pulled out the seats to see what I have to deal with for a floor. It's pretty rough with some really bad repairs. Some previous owner laid sheet metal right over the rusted out metal and fiberglassed it in with fiberglass cloth and resin. Plus they put on new outer rockers but left the rusted out inner rockers in place. But in keeping with the cheap driver theme, I'm not tackling all that at this point. For now I'm just going to cut away whats completely gone,put some patches in, and hit the rest with rust inhibitor to stop the progression. I just need a solid place to put my feet and something solid to hold the seat in.

    Also painted up some of the trim and power washed the engine. I was just going to put in in as is but I think I'll set it on a stand, pull the pan, and make sure the bottom end looks OK. I probably need to see what the clutch looks like before I bolt it in, too.
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  7. #52
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The pieces look good!!!! time for some 20ga. and the bead roller for the floor, huh?

    Oh well, if it was easy everybody would be doing it!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  8. #53
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson View Post
    The pieces look good!!!! time for some 20ga. and the bead roller for the floor, huh?

    Oh well, if it was easy everybody would be doing it!!!
    Yeah what he said . But you make it look easy Falcon

  9. #54
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    Looks like I'm going a little bigger than 20 gauge. What do you do when you keep cutting and there's nothing solid to weld onto? I went to the steel supply and got a 4 x 10 sheet of 16 gauge and an extra spool of MIG wire. Looks like it's getting more floor repairs than I thought. Also I never did trust those old single reservoir master cylinders. This one is for a 67 Fairlane; I've got a plan for a bracket to make it work. ORielys still carried the factory wheel cylinders; only $21 a piece.

    I don't know how easy this will look, Bobby!
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  10. #55
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    Falcon,,that floors ugly..Glad you are doing it..Patience,perseverance,and a whole lotta mig wire.. I think I have been in the fiberglass too long.. That makes me cringe now..
    Micah 6:8

    If we aren't supposed to have midnight snacks,,,WHY is there a light in the refrigerator???

    Robin.

  11. #56
    falconvan's Avatar
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    I didn't have much of a choice, Robin. Just standing on it I felt like I was going to go through and hit the ground.

    Wow, this was worse than I thought once I started cutting. The drivers side was worse so I'm knocking it out first. The bottom 4 inches of the B pillar was gone as was 1/2 of one of the braces and the inner rocker. It looks like someone had put a new outer rocker on right over the old rusted out one at one point. So I didnt have to remove the old rocker, it just fell out on its own once I started cutting. I'm not fixing it all right now; just building a structure that will support the floor and give me something solid to build from if I decide to go back later and go further with it.
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  12. #57
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    Hearing how they fiberglassed over the rusty floor brings back so many memories of how some "repairs" were done in the old days. I've seen plywood screwed over rusty floors, then tarred over, rags and newspaper shoved into rusted out body panels and bondo'd over, and chicken wire and fiberglass cloth used to make new body panels !

    When I lived in Pennsylvania the cars had to pass State inspection 2 times a year and there cold be no visable holes in the body or frame from rust. But all you had to do was shove some rags or newspaper in there, put a layer of bondo over it, spray it with some paint, and you were good to go. I've bought cars where the frame was almost completely gone from rust, but the bondo routine made it pass inspection.

    You are doing a really nice job on the old Plymouth. Those repairs will make it so much better.

    Don

  13. #58
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    Thanks, Don! I think the only thing worse than fixing rust out is fixing someone else's attempt at fixing rust out. I really believe you spend more time and energy doing it wrong than just cutting it out and trying to do it right.

  14. #59
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    Got most of the drivers side cut and tacked in tonight.
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  15. #60
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    It's coming along. I can relate, I was inside the 37 doing somemore welding and grinding on my floor today.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

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