Hybrid View
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08-16-2011 07:54 PM #1
Sure Whip, you were REALLY looking for stainless in there.You even knew the shade of her skin !
Don
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08-17-2011 02:07 AM #2
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08-17-2011 12:37 AM #3
What stainless?I respect a good shop helper!
" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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08-17-2011 02:02 AM #4
Just a thought Don but do you have the side mounts on the bellhousing of the Olds, you could use them and not need a rear mount at all, In the Olds car they had one mount up front and 2 at the bellhousing either side.
I did consider doing my 32 this way but it would of interfered with the exhaust.Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.
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08-17-2011 06:04 AM #5
Steve, when you bolt on the Bendtsens adapter it replaces the spot where the original mounts went, so we will need to make up something similar, but off of that plate. We could have maybe adapted the original Olds rubber mounts, but they sit down pretty low on the bellhousing. I thught of not needing anything at all on the tailshaft of the TH350, but it would leave the entire transmission hanging in space by just the 6 bellhousing bolts. That seems kind of risky, don't you think?
Don
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08-17-2011 10:45 AM #6
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08-17-2011 11:52 AM #7
Maybe, Steve, but in the setup I had the mount went to a cast in pad on the transmission, and all that went away when I used the Bendtsens adapter. See picture below of where the mounts went originally.
Don
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08-17-2011 08:29 AM #8
Don I think you should also have a mount at the rear of the trans. Thats quit a bit of weight there. That aluminum housing breaks easy when put in a bind.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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08-22-2011 04:59 AM #9
Wow! Those are beautiful, Don. It's almost a shame they'll be hidden when the car is finished.And 3 grade-8 bolts in each one; you could lift the whole car with just one of those mounts.
You'll never have to worry about those losing their integrity. If you still put the chain on the left side of the engine, it will just be for looks because that engine ain't goin' nowhere now!
I have a question about the adapter: is there a spacer that goes between the flex plate and crank, a spacer between the flex plate and torque converter, or a special torque converter?? I guess, more correctly, what takes up the extra space created by the adapter?Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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08-22-2011 05:09 AM #10
Don, VERY NICE. You guys are good.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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08-22-2011 06:57 AM #11
Soooooo Don-----
Am I forgiven??????
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08-22-2011 07:23 AM #12
Jerry, I'm the one who needs forgiven, and I'm happy to see we are still friends. I truly am sorry for my childishness.You were just trying to help me.
Thanks Jim and Charlie. Jim, there are several parts that go between the crank flange and the torque convertor to take up that distance of about 6 inches. First you put on an inch thick spacer onto the crank flange, and then the flexplate. Next a big round spacer goes onto that (it is about 4 or 5 inches long), and finally a triangular plate that bolts to the convertor. The flexplate is way inside the extended Olds bellhousing, in it's usual spot, and all this extra stuff is just there to reach back to fit up to the new torque convertor on the TH350. I'll post some pictures later showing how all the pieces go.
I'm rethinking the chain. Won't know until I get to that stage, but it might look goofy now that I think about it. The car is changing a little as it comes together.I am also starting to look for a starter that will work. I have an aftermarket lower bellhousing that was sold back in the 50's and 60's to move the starter to the right side for steering box clearance. Problem is, the companies are gone and no one remembers what starter these were supposed to take. I tried my stock Olds starter, upside down, and it won't clear the pan. I asked Bob Bendtsen, and he said "nobody knows what starter will fit." He has a few of those adapters and hasn't found any starter to fit yet. A guy on the HAMB sells a mini starter for Olds engines, and that might be my way out, but I have to find out if it will mesh with my flexplate tooth count.
Dan did a nice job on those mounts. My main contribution was helping to cut the steel, and he did the pretty much the rest. I WAS pretty proud of myself that I actually was able to drill the 7/16 bolt holes right on, because usually I have to egg shape holes to get the bolts in. Either I'm getting better or more lucky.
DonLast edited by Itoldyouso; 08-22-2011 at 07:29 AM.
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08-22-2011 08:21 AM #13
Do you have any of the transfer point screw punches???think they are made by Ridget??
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08-22-2011 08:27 AM #14
No, but I think I know what you mean, Jerry. They look like setscrews with points on them so when you screw them in the points will contact the piece and leave a mark when you tap with a hammer ? I was tempted to grind some bolts to a point just for that purpose. I am going to have to buy some of those in various sizes.
What I did on this job was I screwed some bolts into the adapter plate from the backside and let the tip protrude a little. Then I put masking tape on the engine mount and tapped with a hammer to leave a mark on the tape. From there it was easy to mark the center, punch it, and then drill a pilot hole. But those screw punches would make it easier.
Don
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08-22-2011 08:46 AM #15
when you get the transfer srews, you'll feel like slappin yourself every time you use them for not getting them earlier!!!!!
That's going to be nice, like the color. .
Stude M5 build