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Thread: Build thread 37 Dodge PU
          
   
   

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  1. #61
    123pugsy's Avatar
    123pugsy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You can make that patch w/o an english wheel if you wanted to.
    An old purse full of sand and you're on your way.
    A stump with a bowl cut out and you'll be on your way quicker.
    Pugsy

  2. #62
    Mike P's Avatar
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    Arthritis and a pinched nerve in my neck have kind of slowed down the progress on the Dodge in the last couple of weeks. Ainít the golden years great.

    I did finally manage to finish up the welding on the floor and firewall done. Iíve got a bit more grinding to do but overall itís pretty much done for now and I can move on to other stuff.




    I took the brake pedal and steering column out to give me a bit more room for welding. I figured I post a couple of pictures up of some of the fabrication I did during the first mockup I did several years ago.

    You probably noticed Iím going to run a swing pedal and firewall mounted master cylinder. In order to mount the pedal and cylinder I modified and mounted the pedal bracket assembly from a late 70s Dodge truck under the dash. It bolts to the firewall and the factory brackets for the steering column and provides a real solid mounting point and prevents any firewall flex.



    When I got the truck, besides not having a floor/firewall there was also no steering column. I originally intended to run a column shift and had an old 70ís Chevy van we were parting out, so I started with that. It appealed to be because it is early enough that it doesnít have the ignition or high beam switches. I cut it down to the right length (which is actually a pretty easy job). The next thing was to figure out how to connect the shifter to the transmission. I started looking at how to build a mechanical linkage and then it occurred to me that I could make it cable operated. It took a little bit of work to get the ratio on the column right, but when it was done it worked beautifully. As the 518 OD transmission has the same sifter linkage in the same location I could also use this on the current build. Iíve about decided that I really want a floor shifter though, so I may end up building another column.



    I know I could have probably found a prefab pedal assembly and steering column, but I actually really enjoyed building this stuff myself out of stuff I had laying around.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  3. #63
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    Necessity is the Mother of invention, or in your case fabrication. To me that is hot rodding at it's finest.
    Ken Thomas
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    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  4. #64
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Floor came out really nice, Mike--great work!!!

    Hey, seeing as how you're kinda crippled up for awhile and have to spend extra time sitting there looking at all the work to do----might as well design a way kewl push button shifter like the Mopar's of old!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  5. #65
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    Great work, Mike! I enjoy building the columns and pedal assemblies myself, too. It's an easy $400-500 for aftermarket and I'd rather put that $$ elsewhere in the car. Looking great, I hope your neck feels better.

  6. #66
    Mike P's Avatar
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    Dave I actually kicked that idea around when I did the first mockup years ago. It would be pretty simple to do and I have probably half a dozen of the old Mopar push button shifters sitting o the shelf.

    At this point this is the shifter Iím looking at using.



    Nothing is completely off the table at this point, I could use the column shift I already built or do the push buttons as you suggest. Iíve even kicked around hanging another pedal and putting a 4 speed in it, (the pedal/MC bracket has the provisions for it), and I have all the stuff including all the bellhousing parts and transmission.

    In truth going with the 518 OD transmission is the most expensive option for me, I already have all the 4 speed stuff, Iíve also got a suitable SB 727, what I donít have is a complete 518, just an empty case. The main reason the 518 appeals to me is that Iíve never done one of these transmissions yet.

    ď........I enjoy building the columns and pedal assemblies myself, too. It's an easy $400-500 for aftermarket and I'd rather put that $$ elsewhere in the car.....Ē

    Falcon, Iíve got to admit the money is a part for me too,( although if I was doing a customerís car in the long run it would be cheaper to go pre-built than pay for my fabrication time). Like most people here I like to work with my hands....but even more I enjoy going thru the thought process of figuring out what and how to build something as much or more than actually building it.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  7. #67
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    Hereís where Iím at with the steering. When I got the 37 the Mustang II front end was already installed, but there was no steering column or any between the rack and cab. I got the HEMI in and cut down a steering column and threw together a quick steering linkage so I could at least run the wheels and get an idea of what I would need to do when I did the final build. I was pretty much just a quickie job using some old steering shafts/joints I had laying around.



    What I came up with consisted of 2 shafts and 3 single joints. At the time I did the mockup I was planning on a lot milder build than Iím doing now and among other things I was going to run cast iron manifolds that tuck in a lot tighter than the headers.




    No way, no how will the steering I had mocked up clear the headers. I do think I will be able to run a double joint at the rack and drop the shaft lower and closer to the frame to get around the headers. Iím thinking Iíll use a shaft support bearing on each end of the shaft.




    Iíll check everything one more time and probably order parts tomorrow.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  8. #68
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    That's a toughie, Mike. I gotta see how you make this work.

  9. #69
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    Falconvan, We'll find out in a few days, I just got done ordering what I hope are enough parts to get started on it (OUCH !!!!).

    The other options would be to redo the header or go back to manifolds, neither of which is real appealing.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  10. #70
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    Mike I had the same problem with my 460. When I put it in the 48 Ford F1, I hadn't ordered the headers yet. At that time I bought a 460 motor mount kit for the truck, and mounted it as far forward as it would go. I then had to make tranny mounts to fit that location, as well as adjust the drive line width to fit the differential. Flash forward a year when I went to buy the headers that Sanderson makes for this year truck with an after market 460. They are tight but workable on the passenger side, but on the driver side the collector is too wide to fit between the motor mount and the steering box, even though it is designed for this setup. So now the choices are modify the headers to work, or pull the engine out move the mounts forward cut frame members to avoid the timing pulley in front, design new tranny mounts and lengthen the drive shaft to accommodate the headers! So I have sat and pondered what to do(the headers are ceramic coated, with a nice polished aluminum look. I thought of calling Sanderson and see if they could shorten the place where the collector comes down by the steering box. If they could do that, then I could get a collector thru the tight space between the motor mounts and the steering box, making life much easier in the long run!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  11. #71
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    Steve it’s been several years since I went thru my Ford truck phase (1951 F1 and F6 Cab Over and 1952 F6 conventional cab), but as I recall even on the big trucks the stock steering location was a PITA on the conventional cab doing an engine swap. When I stuffed a BBC in the in the 52 F6, I ended up using a passenger side exhaust manifold on the drivers side so it exited in the front to clear the steering box, then I built a u shaped exhaust pipe to run it back in the right direction.

    I think I would get ahold of Sanderson, it looks like they make 429/460 headers for other applications that might work for your truck. Here are the ones you list in you build thread:

    Big Block Ford (429-460) 1948-52 Ford F1 Pickup Silver Coated Header Set. | eBay


    And here are some different styles they offer that look like they might clear. (don’t be afraid of using a passenger side on the driver’s side if it will fit.

    Big Block Ford (429-460) 4x4 Bronco, Studebaker Black Coated Header Set | eBay

    Big Block Ford (429-460) 1935-40 Cars and Trucks Silver Coated Header Set | eBay

    FORD 429 460 1953 F100 TRUCK HEADERS street rod hot rat | eBay

    Who knows they might sell you just the one side or even exchange it.
    Last edited by Mike P; 09-28-2011 at 02:17 AM.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  12. #72
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    Mike thanks for the heads up!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  13. #73
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    I’ve been working on getting the steering column connected to the rack and pinion. I think everything is figured out and the shafts are at the machine shop getting flats milled into them so they will fit the double D joints. Hopefully I’ll have them back tomorrow and I can get the steering all put together…..I’ll post pictures of that when it’s done.

    I decided a while back that I’ll be running dumps out of the fenders behind the front tires. The old Hemi just sounds to good thru open headers not to be able to listen to it once in a while……I’m sure the neighbors would miss it. Anyway while looking for Y pipes I came across these.




    I remember seeing these things in the old Warshawski’s catalogs when I was kid. The only problem was the ones they sold only had something like a 1 ĺ ID. JEGs has these that have a full 2 Ĺ ID and the shaft and flapper are stainless and they actually look to seal pretty well on the inside. I’m actually be capping the cutout off with a 3 bolt header flange and cap, so if they are leaky it really won’t matter. The nice thing was they were right at the same price as he regular pipe Y pipes, and they are a bit more compact.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  14. #74
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    Cool! I haven't seen those used in a while. Open them babies about 3am some night when you're coming home late.

  15. #75
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    Mike I don't know if you have the room or not but you can roll the rack back to change the angle you come at it. I have done this on street rod with no problems
    Charlie
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