Thread: 41 New Yorker Coupe
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05-25-2011 03:59 AM #1
Thanks Guys.
The next step was to get my total front end geometry correct.
I got a program online and started the task of getting the roll center as low as possible and everthing lined up using the spindles I had.

Its a pretty good program as I could go thru dive and roll and see the results.
This enabled me to check all the pivot points for the upper and lower control arms, length of arms, etc.
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05-23-2011 09:49 PM #2
WOW.........that front end turned out nice......well done.....Lots of work ahead of ya....but it will look sharp
Ill be dropping in on this post to see the progress.Never take life too serious.....You wont make it out alive 
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05-25-2011 07:33 AM #3
Looks good in the pics and the geometry! Where did you find the software, btw?Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-25-2011 08:12 AM #4
The program is by Performance Trends.
Reasonable price and they offer free 10 day trials on alot of their stuff.
Roll Center Calculator Suspension Software Program
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05-25-2011 09:33 AM #5
Thanks Pugsy!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-25-2011 05:23 PM #6
You're welcome Dave.
No problem Rick.
Anytime Dan.
The Engine Analyzer is nice.
I've ran it twice for free trials. Once at work and once at home.
I'm out of IP addresses to run it anymore.
If I remember correctly, its a little over 4 bills. Too rich for my blood.
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05-25-2011 10:16 AM #7
Great software. Thanks!
Pride Runs Deep
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05-25-2011 11:00 AM #8
thanks for the website for the software
DanNever take life too serious.....You wont make it out alive 
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05-25-2011 11:54 AM #9
Pugsy - How did I miss this build? Very cool mods to the original front. Your sheet metal skills are fantastic! The frame and the geometry for the front suspension is seriously some of the most detailed stuff I've seen here. Thank you for posting your build, I look forward to seeing it thru!"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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05-25-2011 05:32 PM #10
Thanks Steve.
All these details are taking forever.
I was out tapping on the front metal on the weekend and man am I having a hard time.
I tacked everything together before I should have and I'm paying the piper now.
The shape is way off and its gonna be pretty hard lifting the whole car onto the English wheel to smooth out all the knock dings I've put into it.
Well, there's always high build primer and bondo I guess.
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05-25-2011 05:51 PM #11
After figuring out the pivot points I started on the sleeves for the ball joints.
I found some nice steel screw in style sleeves for the upper arms at the local speed shop.
As I wanted stainless finish, I welded some schedule 80 pipe around the sleeves to weld the arm to.


For the lowers, I got stock Cobra ball joints.
These were a little trickier as they are press in
I used two pieces of schedule 80 pipe for these. I had to cut a sliver out and reweld to the correct size to fit the balljoint. The weld seams ended up under the connection point of the arm to the sleeve to lock everything up for sure.

The pic below shows the fit of the ball joint after it was pressed out.
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05-25-2011 06:05 PM #12
Here's a beauty move.
Nice looking lower control arm going together.....

It would be good if it was going on a train and the wheels didn't have to turn....DOH!
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05-25-2011 06:21 PM #13
I cut the obtrusive pipe off and started on the upper arm to get the wheel turning and to figure out how to get out of the lower arm mess.

Jigged the upper arms up to weld the sleeves on.

Got the uppers done and the bushings and sleeves made up.
I screwed the ball joints in to check things out.
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05-28-2011 07:07 AM #14
I got the crossmember and coilover mounts welded and polished up.

I then made up the upper control arm mounts.
My first thought was to use different amount of shims behind the front and rear of the plate to achieve camber and castor. This was a mistake as the plate is solid and shims will need to be applied evenly.
I had slots milled in the plate and made up some eccentric washers to be able to adjust castor. I got this idea from the bolts used on the Ford upper arms of the IRS.
Shims behind will adjust camber.


Last edited by 123pugsy; 05-28-2011 at 07:18 AM.
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05-28-2011 10:21 AM #15
Wow Pugsy it looks great. Nice custom work."
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.





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