Thread: Project "Left Overs"

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That will do the trick. Cobra guys have this problem quite regularly because the radiator sits so low.

That makes sense. I've seen some of those Cobras and the radiator is way low. This neck has an extra port on it for an overflow, so I can probably bleed right off of that.

Don

Don,
Another problem I ran into with my roadster was air trapped by my thermostat. I solved it by putting a little water fill in behind it. It's really weird where air can get trapped. That is why I was asking you bout a electric water pump, sometimes the mechanical pump can't over take air pockets.
I built a '29 sedan delivery with a blown 560 c.I. Ford with a radiator in the rear and the pump just didn't have what it took to clear the system. I fought it and finally a friend told me to try it and it then would clear all the air and ran cool. I know you aren't there yet, but I think if you are looking for these kind of problems as you built it, it might help later. Just trying to help.
Ken

That's really interesting, Ken. So you had a rod with the radiator in the back? I never knew that. How did it work out overall? Was the airflow enough to cool it without the fans running constantly? Did you build some ducts or just rely on the air going under the car? How was the radiator oriented........laying flat or vertical?

Don

I've shelved working on my rpu project for a little bit and am concentrating on helping Dan get his rpu done. We've realized that we have a good shot at getting it running in time for Billetproof on April 9th if we really put our minds to it. If nothing else it might be running well enough to drive from the trailer into the fairgrounds to at least show it for the first time.

We got the engine started and did the break in procedure quite a while ago, but that was with it running on a gas can and electrical test panel. For the past several weeks Dan has been installing the American Autowire kit and finally got that all done. Last night we installed the permanent fuel tank, electric fuel pump, regulator, and all the lines to the carbs. After some fiddling around we got it to start and run on the key. All the gauges work and the car is holding about 50 psi oil pressure and the temp stayed at 170 the whole time.

One glitch we found is that the ignition switch that comes with the kit is set up for a starter with those two little posts on it, one to activate the starter and the other one to supply 12 volts to the coil while cranking. Dan has a Powermaster single wire starter so we were not getting any juice to the coil while cranking. We rigged a temporary wire to do that and on Monday I will call American Autowire to see if they carry a switch that keeps the ignition post hot while cranking, or we can use one of the marine switches we have used in lots of other projects. Just a small thing.

The engine sounds great, but something funny happened. After running it for a while in the enclosed shop both of our ears were ringing from the open headers. When we took a drink of our celebration beer I got a sharp pain in the left side of my jaw. Dan said his jaw was stiff too. Evidently, the loud exhaust had plugged up our ears and it wasn't until an hour later that they unplugged and the pain went away. I guess next time we will have to wear earplugs.

I think our project today will be to remove and replace the front spring. We are using a Posies front spring and evidently the weight of the 468 Olds and heavy frame have flattened it out. We bought a heavy duty one from Posies and are either going to use it as is or use some leaves to get the car about 1.5 to 2 inches higher. That is good news to me because I can use the too flat spring for the front of my own rpu project.

In case there is anyone in the free world who hasn't seen the old YouTube of Dans car running, I'll post it again.

Don

http://www.youtube.com/user/dhdh71#p/a/u/0/R-j2Q75Y4b0

I had a rear mounted rad in one of my old cars Don, It held a lot of water , i ran 1.75" stainless tubes inside the model A rails before i boxed them, I used a Davies Craig electric water pump controlled by their controller in the middle of the frame, I removed the guts of the SBC pump so it was just a water transfer, Had scoops either side just behind the doors and a big rad with twin electric fans in the trunk, i then had a shroud that exited through the very rear of the trunk floor, It all worked well.

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

That's really interesting, Ken. So you had a rod with the radiator in the back? I never knew that. How did it work out overall? Was the airflow enough to cool it without the fans running constantly? Did you build some ducts or just rely on the air going under the car? How was the radiator oriented........laying flat or vertical?

Don

Thanks guys. For once I can say Dan really is at the finish line. Car's fuel system is done, electrical is 99% done, and the motor now starts and runs on the key. We found a packet with a diode that American Autowire supplies for people, like us, who are using a one wire starter. Once we installed it the car fired right up.

We also changed out the front spring to a heavier Posies version. We have 3 Posies springs in the shop, the one in the car was fairly light, another one is a little heavier, and the 3rd is their heavy duty version. We found the middle one to be just right, and it raised the front up 1.75 inches, just what we needed. We also adjusted up the back suspension 2 inches to match the front.

Dan did a little YouTube, it is a lot like the other one I posted, except now the car is painted and all the systems work from the dash.

http://www.youtube.com/user/dhdh71#p/a/u/1/JFWQ7rRnJPk


Don

Great stuff Don, You must be a very proud Dad