I think he sent it back and chose to use something else? Not sure. What's Costco selling them for?Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
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I think he sent it back and chose to use something else? Not sure. What's Costco selling them for?Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
$129.99 as I recall, "As Seen On TV" cutter and blades plus a second set of blades.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Back to the stainless split bones, apparently there are more sets available from the guy in Vegas, Ken got ahold of him, and he's selling them through the local SoCal Speed Shop franchise. Here's a set that was purchased yesterday by a buddy in Vegas.
MMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....... Shiney.......:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Those look nice. Now with lightning holes, sleaved.........:D:D:D
Those are really nice looking, and I bet in certain applications that pass through for the tie rod comes in handy. I like em. :)
Roger, Steve is right, I passed on the dual blade saw. I had forgotten that my Son Dan bought one like it from Sears and returned it because he tried cutting some boxing plates with it and the thing kept wanting to kick back at him. I ended up using our bandsaw and it did fine.
Today I got my 34 axle and propped it up for a looksee. For what I want this car to look like this one fits better than the Superbell I had originally intended on using. Just looks older to me. I am going to run it suicide and it looks like my tie rod will clear behind the axle. Glad I found this one on Ebay, it is in really nice condition and staight.
Just a quick shot of it mocked up today.
Don
Mike in Tucson (Robot) and I went by this guys shop today. He really makes some nice stuff. I ordered a set of stainless wishbones from him. At the price he sells them for I can't come close to fabricating them myself.
Ken
Cool deal all around! Bob and Ken nice wishbones, Don it's looking good! I can't tell you how much I learn from your posts. Between you Steve and Ken, I'm going to have to build a little roadster next! Until then I'll watch and learn!
That is a kool idea..Looks good,Don..and,yeah,an early car could happen for me one day too..:DQuote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Your car is sure taking shape, it's going to look really good. How much wheel base does it ad with the suicide front end?
Ken
Those are the one's I had, The customer bought them but I know they wern't cheap !!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Ken what sort of money were they ??? I believe he sells them with lightening holes also ???
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
When it comes to spending Ken's money my standards go Waaaaaaayyyy up!:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
Ken, it adds about 8 to 12 inches to the WB depending on the batwings used (some move the spring back further from the axle than others) and also the perch used on the front crossmember. I calculate from my mockup that my WB will be in the 115 neighborhood, which is where I want it. My 23 was 100 and my 27 is at 103,5 so I figure the added WB will give me a little better ride and handling. My short WB 23 was a little "interesting" on the 1-2 shift when I had my foot buried in the firewall. :eek:
Don
Steve - They are $964.50 no holes, except for the steering slot, unpolishished. They come in 2 lengths, replacments for hairpins and 8" longer. He has the ends cast out of 304 then welds them in.
Thanks Uncle Bob :)
Don, that should give a nice ride like you said. I believe it's going to be a hand full when you nail it :eek:
All things considered, $ 900 isn't bad for those in SS. Sure will compliment the rest of the car.
Did you ever watch that show "Life after People"? On it they show simulations of what would happen if every human disappeared from the face of the earth, and how all the man made structures would start falling down. With you and Steve building these SS cars they should be around for about 1,000 years or so. :LOL:
Don
Nice! I'm really feeling jealous right now!:D
Last night while Dan was doing more wiring on his rpu I continued putting the engine back together for my 27. It's pretty much ready to reinstall, I just need to move some stuff around in the shop to get the engine lift in there. I feel pretty good that the changes I made will clear up my oil leak and my water pump failures. The new valve covers should also make it easier to put the engine in and to set the valves down the road.
As for my rpu project, my front tires and rear slicks came in from Coker and the powder coater got my rims done Friday. So I had the tires mounted and propped them up in place to see how they look. I love the 8 inch Firestones even better than the 10 inchers I had on the 23, they just look more era correct to me somehow.
I keep going back and forth on if I want the radiator in front or hidden in the bed. Right now I am still leaning toward the rear position so I can run the Moon tank and an empty Model A shell up front, sort of like a drag car. The wheelbase is going to end up at about 115-116 inches.
Here are some pictures of the engine ready to go back in the 27, and also some mock up shots I took tonight with the tires propped up in place. (The grille shell will be chopped to match the cowl height)
Don
Cool Don do the coker slicks come in black walls to....?
Yep, they do. I considered going to blackwalls all around on this one, but I am just sort of a whitewall guy, I guess. :o If you go to buy them, get a H A M B Alliance membership. It dropped the price from $ 333.00 per tire to $ 296.00 per tire. Paid for my shipping.
Don
The have them at Socal speed, just a few miles from me....this could get me trouble.:eek:
The last time I was in there I spent four hours just looking, NOS parts, half built roadsters, frames, blown flatheads, old speed parts just hanging all over the place, I was like a kid in a candy store.:whacked:
I've only seen that shop on Hot Rod TV, and it looks very cool. You're lucky to live that close...........but maybe your wallet isn't so lucky. :p:D
Don
Those and wheels look cool Don but how will the rear slicks perform on a wet greasy road? Yeh ha,, that was fun going side ways down the street!!!:eek:
Surprisingly Whip, the 10 inch Firestones on the 23 were pretty good in the rain. I got caught in quite a few downpours when I had it and as long as I kept my throttle foot light it stayed straight. The time it went sideways across three lanes I think it was because the right slick would grab (non posi) and push the car to the left. Even when I would moderately go through the gears manually on the 1-2 upshift it would do a little hop and the front would move to the left just a tad.
But I think the two grooves and slits all around the edge of these slicks make them better in the wet than regular slicks. I ran 11 inch M and H Racemasters on the back of my 68 Mustang, and those were a handful when the roads were even damp. :eek:
Don
Don your a brave man! Me I'm terrified of the sliding sensation of no traction! I guess it comes from laying my motorcycle down a few too many times in wet weather when I was a kid! Boy the price tag on those babies is up there. It's amazing how much you can spend just on tires and wheels! But they do look very nice.
406Rich - I had no idea that Socal speed shop was a chain, I figured they were just in southern California. I was surprised to see they have a store in Sacramento. Now I'll have to add that to my list of shops over there!:D
Have you added American pastimes, Vintage ford. and Tognotti`s ?Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
sorry for the off subject interuptions here Don, 406rich- I know about vintage ford, and tognottis, but not american pastimes, I'll check them out. Thanks.
No apology needed, Steve. 3/4 of my threads are OT. :o:) I think it adds to the flavor of a thread to have people jump in and talk about whatever.
You're right about the cost of these slicks, but man are they HEAVY. I had to lift the mounted tires out of the trunk of my car when I got them done and it took all I had to lift one of them.
I ran into a funny situation on the front tires. Went to a tire shop and had the new 5:60's mounted on new wheels I also got from Coker. The guy calls me out and tells me I have bent rims! :eek: So I figure I'll call Coker on Monday morning. Then I get back to the shop and see a warning posted on the box the rims came in (see picture below). Monday I called Superior wheel and he says all rims like this must be balanced on a machine that locates them on the lugs, not against a flat plate. He said they hold their wheels to .030 runout as opposed to their competition who hold it to .060. So I am satisfied they are ok and will have the car properly balanced once it is running.
Don
That's weird. I've never seen a balancer that locates the wheels by the lugs. Does that mean they have to be balanced on the car?
It was a new one to me too, Jim. The guy from Superior said surprisingly enough, the old balancers work better with these steel wheels, and some new balancers have an adapter that has lugs on it. Very strange, I've had steel wheels balanced before at this exact same place, with no problems. I am going to try to see if the one shop is still around in town that has one of those motorized deals that goes under the whole tire and wheel while on the car, and it balances the wheel, tire, and brake drum in one shot. I had a Toyota with a shake and the guy finally had to use that kind on it and the problem was in the rotor.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Robinson
Don
It's been a while since I had anything to post about the rpu project, been ironing out some bugs on the 27. Now that it seems to be running well I have been able to get back on the rpu.
The front frame sections were holding me back. I decided to taper them from 4 inches to 3 inches in the front so I had to cut a pie shaped section 1 inch wide by 3 feet long and then close it up. I got it cut and have been hesitating to have my Son Dan weld it up for me because I didn't want him to miss any time working on his own car. But this week I clamped the front section to the welding table and he got them done for me. I don't weld well enough to do structural stuff, so I leave that to him.
After they were welded I ground the welds smooth and then cut the sections of the frame that go from the firewall to the back of the body. Tonight we got those pieces welded to the front frame sections, and I was able to finally slip that much of the frame under the body and start squaring things up.
I also cut all the pieces of tubing that go in the bed area, and tomorrow Dan will weld those up also. Our plan is to do both sides of the frame then drag out the frame jig and weld crossmembers in, front and rear.
Here are some pictures of what we got done today. It's 3 am and we just got in from the shop, and I am going to bed. :D
Don
Thats funny i was only thinking last night what was happenning with this project, Good progress Don.
Looking good. I have been puzzling over the front kick up on mine. I figured I'd need about that much to get it to sit where I want it. Looks like with the channel it's almost hidden. Not sure how to handle that with body on top of frame.
Well anyway, glad to see you back at it. Hope the 27 keeps running good. I'll be watching this one. Might find and idea or 2 to steal..........er borrow from you........:D
Steve, yep, it did get sidetracked for a while, but getting this portion of the frame done was a major hurdle. Dan had 12 feet of cuts in the front rails to weld closed and then I had to grind those smooth, so I am really glad that is behind me. Still a lot of capping to do on the open portions of the 2 x 4 tubing, and some gussets and crossmembers, but small potatoes compared to the front part.
dlotraf33, I ended up with the 4 inch kickup in the front and 13 inches in back. You are right, it might be tough to pull off a kick up on a non channelled car, but I think I have seen it done. Please feel free to steal any ideas you want, that is where I get all my ideas. :o
The one concession to modern stuff I am going to make on the car is the rear suspension. I was going to use a Model A rear crossmember and spring, but since it will be totally hidden in the bed (I am going to have a louvered tonneau cover over the entire bed) I have decided to go with coil overs and a three bar setup from Suicide Doors. It will make for a compact, nice riding setup with lots of adjustability built in.
I've also decided that I will run the radiator in the bed with an empty Model A grille shell and Moon tank up front. I have most of the details worked out in my head on how to run the cooling lines and where to mount the radiator.
Don
Don, have you mocked up your seating yet? If so I was wondering what you think you will end up, as far as seat height off of the floor? And if you know off hand what the lenth of your cab firewall to back of cab? I am streaching mine about 5" over stock. But still along way from frame, and back and forth on channel or not.
Well, luckily when I scored this body from my Son Dan I also got the aluminum seats that he had bought for it. They are the Karkey (sp) ones from Speedway, with the black covers. So I am set there. He even had the mounts made and all that already done so all we have to do is cut two sheet metal floor panels and that portion will be done. Not sure of the dimensions, but it is a lot roomier than my 23 or my 27........and it has doors, for a change. :D
Don
You haven't talked much about how you'll run the plumbing, but before you cap those side rails you ought to think about stainless or copper tubing inside the side channels. Seems like you'd have room for at least a 1" tubing. Drill some lightening holes for ventilation and you'd gain some cooling capacity back. They'd be out of sight and out of debris damage range. Just a thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
That's actually not a bad idea, Bob. :) I had sort of planned on running two 1.5 inch tubes of some sort back, side by side, right inside the frame rail on the drivers side. I am using a Kugel 90 degree brake setup that goes under the dash, so there will be nothing under the floor in that area. But I will look at the possibility of doing what you suggested.
You do have your moments! :D
Don
Coming right along. I agree with uncle Bob, protecting as mush as you can inside the frame is a good idea if it can be done. Another suggestion might be to drill small holes in the lowest part of the frame and the tubing inside the frame, in case there is ever a leak you will know.
My 2 cents.
Ken
Haha, that would be kind of a bummer, Ken, to have the frame fill up with coolant and not knowing about it. :LOL: I haven't gotten that far in my planning yet and have considered just bending up some stainless or aluminum round tubing to run parallel with the rails to carry the coolant back to the radiator. Not sure where I will end up on that yet.
I hate to keep taking Dan off of his rpu project to weld stuff for me, but frankly I just don't see wel enough these days to trust my own welding, especially on frames and suspension. He has been good about it though, I get it all prepped and clamped down and he comes over and welds it up, then I grind it smooth.
His wiring is almost done! :D Just a few things like electric fuel pump and tank sender and some final looming and it will be complete. He hooked up a jump box and was able to test all the connections...........all the lights work, gauges light up, and switches do what they should do. I think this has given him a morale boost......it has been since 2005 he has been building this car in one form or another. This might be the year to actually drive it.:)
Here are some pictures he took last night.
Don