Steve, I like the hex in your link. I wish my drag link had one. It's not easy to firm up lock nuts on various types of bars without them.
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Steve, I like the hex in your link. I wish my drag link had one. It's not easy to firm up lock nuts on various types of bars without them.
I'm sorry Steve but I'm receiving flak about discussing your anti roll bar---
But---------you did use a right and a left handed heim joint????????????/
What welding rod do you use to weld stainless to 4130 and do you purge the inside of the tube??????????
I'm assuming that the tube is either .083 at .8129 lbs per feet or .095 at .9182 lbs per ft------------
Steve----when I order tubing the prices come down as the number of feet go up so I'm always adding stainless for brake and fuel lines and lengths of tubing that have a od/wall thickness combo to result in a standard tap size id for threading---I think 1/2 .083 results in tap size for 3/8??????????????anyway, don't know what the availability and sizes available over there but there are 2 or 3 big suppliers right near here and they are always ready to talk to racers!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.mulsannescorner.com/Porsc...ng2008-MF2.jpg
so if this worked---where's the ARB?
Gosh, Jerry, I can't find one. Of course I couldn't find one on this either. :rolleyes:
Attachment 58195
With that, I'm done with this discussion.
Steve--I agree with the welded bungs in the end of tubes for the healthier links----I do the directly threaded tube fo things like throttle linkages(your carb pics reminded me), goKart steering links, clutch/brake--------probably nothing bigger than 1/2 od
Jack---------------PETA will be after you because of the dangerous things your doing to those birds habitat around the landing strip------------------
Jerry, if this is the Peta hit squad, I guess I'll just have to deal with it.
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Well it appears the bad luck fairy has struck Got a message saying my heads were gonna be ready next week so got the machined block out of storage and thought I would put the short motor together, I had previously done all the machine work including hot tanking the block, crack testing, drilling out the oilways, drilling larger oil returns, over boring, doweling the main caps etc etc, basically a shitload of work
It had been stored in my lockup in a sealed bag to keep it clean, Jason came round to help me get it on the engine stand, we rolled it over and Jason said "whats that line for ?" I looked and it wasn't a line but a hairline crack about 1" up from the pan rail, its so fine its extremely difficult to see but it makes the block scrap
Had a cup of tea and decided to go get the spare block from the lockup and strip it out and take it to be hot tanked before starting the maching all over again. Jason kindly helped me strip it and get back into the car so I could take it in the morning. We checked for cracks and found nothing
You ain't gonna believe this , Got to the engine shop and asked it to be hot tanked first, Peter the owner looks inside and says "this one is ok"
About an hour later Peter rang me to say he had checked the progress of the block in the tank and now it looked like it also had a crack in the same place
I drove back and sure enough it had a hairline crack bugger !!!
Luckily my mate Shaun (rockit) has a spare 500 block and is gonna lend it to me and I can replace as soon as I locate a good one, I just need to get from Preston to Watford
Its baffled me how these cracks could appear even after checking, 3 different people have looked at this block and nobody noticed it anybody got any ideas ???
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